The Wireman has what you are looking for. 8 pole molded male and female
disconnect.
https://www.thewireman.com/prodpix6.html
I do not own The Wireman, nor do I work for them, therefore I have no
interest. Just passing on information.
Tom, N2SR
On Monday, May 19, 2014 11:01 AM, Patrick Greenlee <patrick_g@windstream.net>
wrote:
Matt, That is certainly a good pro way to handle the problem (older
persons substitute word for "issue.") I am doing essentially the same
thing at the terminal strip, exiting that terminal strip area with a
made up cable (separate insulated wires with a couple layers of shrink
over them and plenty of silicon rubber (RTV) inside over the terminal
strip. Nicee and weather proof. Where you went with a J-box and
internal terminal strip, I wnet with a pair of 4 pin polarized "flat 4"
trailer connectors.; With a few wraps of tape and some RTV and you are
weatherproof. Coax seal is even easier to put on and take off and would
work good.as well.
Comparing the two approaches is like arguing whether it is 50 cents or a
half dollar. With a note paper inside the J-box as a reminder of what
color wire goes to which number terminal (unless of course the other
cable is same colors) and you are in business. About the only advantage
I could claim is a little cost and the ability to connect and disconnect
in the dark without needing a third or fourth hand and a light. I do
not intend to be plugging and unplugging in the dark and the savings
won't buy much these days.
73,
Patrick NJ5G
On 5/18/2014 10:53 PM, Matt wrote:
> Hi Patrick,
>
> Just another take on the chronic problem with the older terminal block
> design that you mention... My solution was to replace the terminal strip
> with a blank-off plate through which I passed a short whip that extends the
> rotor wiring out to a weatherproof external J-box which houses the terminal
> strip. I use small compression nuts that are similar to seal-tight
> connectors at the blank-off plate and the J-box. J box is mounted to one
> of the tower legs which also makes accessing the terminal strip a lot
> easier.
>
> Matt
> KM5VI
>
>
>
>
> I was looking for connectors to add to older HY-Gain rotors using 8 wires.
> My new production unit came with connectors but the older units use an 8
> position terminal strip that is not so wonderfully weather proofed. So you
> get your unit refurbed or it is still working fine but still has the old
> terminal strip... not satisfactory...
>
> So I'm searching Mouser, Digi Key etc and then... and then... the little
> over my head light came on, dimly but noticeably illuminated.
> Flat 4 pin trailer connectors for hooking up the lights on a trailer to be
> towed. Need 8 pins. Connector has 4 pins. One side is 3 males and a female
> and the mating connector is 3 female pins and a male. Take one of each male
> and female and using the supplied pigtails put on ring terminals and install
> the pair of flat connectors to the terminal strip. Flood the terminal strip
> with Silicon rubber (RTV) or your favorite weather proofer and put on the
> cover. Another pair of connectors terminates your cable run at the rotator
> end.
>
> This gives you polarized connector action. You can't plug the cable run from
> the controller into the wrong connectors at the rotator. The trailer type
> flat 4 pin connectors are made to be exposed to the elements in their normal
> application. I like belt and suspender type weather proofing so... Wrap
> the connectors with tape or coax seal or whatever you prefer to boost the
> weather resistance if you are worried that these inexpensive connectors
> could do a good job. Electrical tape and a little RTV does a marvelous job
> and is easy enough to remove if the need arises.
>
> I kinow, I know, no material certs, no mil-spec, NIH, too inexpensive to be
> good etc etc...
>
> 73,
>
> Patrick NJ5G
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