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Re: [TowerTalk] [Bulk] Re: Long shank U-Bolts

To: towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] [Bulk] Re: Long shank U-Bolts
From: Patrick Greenlee <patrick_g@windstream.net>
Date: Sun, 04 Jan 2015 08:46:45 -0600
List-post: <towertalk@contesting.com">mailto:towertalk@contesting.com>
Grant, Thank you for the graphic description of potential injury. I was getting a little lax in my drill press technique, clearing chips and such. I have had several close calls but no serious injury. After having taken the warning comments to heart a New Years resolution has been made. I will do what is required to be safe and keep my ability to count to 10.

Thanks, guys.

Patrick  NJ5G


On 1/3/2015 1:50 PM, Grant Saviers wrote:
One additional comment re SAFETY around rotating machines: NEVER wear gloves!! Surgeons are great at putting fingers back on or suturing gashes, but it is often amputation if they encounter a "degloving injury". These are caused when the tissue is removed around the finger. That can happen when the glove material catches on the drill bit, lathe chuck, mill chuck etc. and the glove finger acts like a Chinese finger torture device, stripping all the tissue from the finger. ugh. Or worse the glove strips some of the hand. really ugh.

The chips and swarf in drilling, milling, and turning operations should be managed with a chip hook about 12 to 18" long, coolant flushing, or air blast. Better yet, "peck drill" so that short chips are made. Ideally, a lathe tool should make small chips not stringy ones as these can "bird nest" and become exceedingly hazardous as they spin around with the chuck.

Grant KZ1W


On 1/3/2015 12:05 AM, Roger (K8RI) on TT wrote:
On 1/1/2015 8:56 PM, Doug Renwick wrote:

If he has access to a milling machine or knows a machinist, saddle clamps are easy to make, particularly if you can find some relatively small pieces of 1" plate and you can make the flat long enough for bolt holes instead of notches that require a backing plate.

I realize not everyone has a mill, but they are relatively cheap on the used market. About 40 years ago, the company I worked for purchased 2 of the same model used that I have, but theirs were strictly mechanical feeds except the quill. They only had about 5 speeds available by changing the belt locations on the pulleys. They paid about $7900 each. I paid less than $3000 IIRC. There isn't a better drill press made. The mill is RIGID and makes drilling "round" holes in precise locations with far less risk of bits hanging and flying parts. They also make drilling holes on a circle relatively easy. They also give you a reason to refresh that high school Trig.

A keyless chuck, a set of collets, a few end mills, a vise, and a little instruction are about all you need. Used mills with power feeds and digital readouts on the X, Y, and sometimes ZS axis for around $3000 while strictly mechanical with quil feed can be found between 1 and 2 thousand dollars. can be found.

A local high school had inexpensive classes on using Lathes, mills, shapers, surface grinders and welding. It would be a good investment for the mechanically inclined even if you don't have any machine tools. You can learn a lot of possibilities. "Beware" of Fly Cutters! The first time you see one in operation you will know why I say that. Speaking of Fly Cutters. They let you cut large holes with smooth edges, but cutting holes in thin materials with one takes special techniques and precautions.

One last precaution about working with metals. When the shavings start peeling off never, ever try to brush them away with a hand even with leather gloves Those things are sharp and if the bit, or what ever grabs them the same time you do, those shavings can removes finger(s) so quickly and cleanly you won't know it happened at the moment. The mess is likely to alert you before the pain sets in.

Of course they also require maintenance. Mine is variable speed and the head needs rebuilding. Some where, some one (not me) hung a cutter on low speed and sheared the key on the quill. It works fine for what I do and the collets fit tight enough there's no slipping. Oh! It weighs 1800 to 2000# so make sure to set it where you want it when it's delivered and you have help. I moved mine the length of the shop, then 15 feet South, turned it around and backed it into place...alone and with no power tools. I made a platform of 2 X 12s and used lengths of 3/4 inch pipe as rollers and a railroad pry-bar for power. <:-)) So you know why I make that recommendation<LOL>.

73
\
Roger (K8RI)

Using 2 saddle clamps as you describe is a good idea. I use that to
support/clamp masts on top of a thrust bearing.

Doug

I wasn't born in Saskatchewan, but I got here as soon as I could.

-----Original Message-----

On 12/30/2014 5:48 PM, Byron Tatum wrote:

It might be a little pricy, but how about 2 saddle clamps used with a
pair of straight bolts.  If worried about the bolts slipping out, they
do make flat metal plates with 2 holes likely of a size you need to use
for backing plates.

73

Roger (K8RI)


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