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Re: [TowerTalk] PL259 Connectors

To: towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] PL259 Connectors
From: Howard Hoyt <hhoyt@mebtel.net>
Date: Sun, 15 May 2016 13:39:39 -0400
List-post: <towertalk@contesting.com">mailto:towertalk@contesting.com>
On 5/15/2016 12:00 PM, towertalk-request@contesting.com wrote:

From: <john@kk9a.com>

...I'm not sure why more hams don't do what the pros do.

I've been watching the discussion with some interest to see where it would go, and to see if anyone has come up with a better system than the 3/4" tape over the connectors/butyl seal/2" tape overall system. I've been a broadcast engineer for over 30 years and have used the 2" wide Andrew tape and butyl weatherproofing exclusively. It is also important to tighten with wrenches or pliers to inhibit loosening from vibration or wind movement. To date I have not had a connection fail due to water intrusion using this system. If you examine the tens of thousands of connections on broadcast towers across the world on Heliax and coax products, this is what broadcast engineers and tower riggers use. Keep in mind this sealing system has to be in use 24/7 and at thousands of feet up in the weather and last for years. The very worst I encounter when dis-assembling a connection protected in this manner is tape adhesive residue on the connectors, but never moisture or corrosion.

The 2" wide thick tape is an important part of the system; when used as the top seal it inhibits the butyl from extruding between the wraps of tape, which can be a problem with 3/4" wide tape. It also allows a more generous overlap for better adhesion. The high-quality tape Andrews specs (not always 3M...) will not lose adhesion even after years of UV and high winds. Of course the last few wraps must be made at low tension and laid flat without wrinkles, AND making sure the surface of the tape it is adhering to has no dust, oils or greases to inhibit adhesion. (see below on using greases)

Packing the connectors with any sort of grease is problematic for a few reasons: Some greases have a fairly high film strength, and the wiping action of the mating parts may not fully displace it resulting in a poor connection, compatibility with dielectrics or seals (BNC/N) is not guaranteed, and unless the product is guaranteed to be free radical and moisture free (most are not), you are potentially adding a source of corrosion. Also, it can bleed, it makes a mess and seems to get on your hands/gloves no matter what you do so you end up getting it on the connector and coax. This film can then interfere with the adhesion of the primary seal you put on the outside of the connectors. An example of this problem: when installing flanged hardline or Heliax connectors you must grease the o-rings, but then you must be be meticulous about cleaning your hands/new gloves before you install any grounding kits which include taping. Basically, if you do the external sealing correctly you just plain do not need grease with non-flanged Heliax or coax connectors.

You must be very careful how you use dual-wall adhesive heatshrink for use on flexible cables, even the thick marine grade type. It is important to clean the jacket with a degreaser such as isopropanol before installing to ensure a good bond. Also, extend the heatshrink 4-6" onto the coax to ensure the zone near the connector remains relatively rigid even if the bond at the end fails. I have had factory-supplied FM antenna multi-bay phasing harnesses weatherproofed with short lengths of adhesive heatshrink tubing fail after being aggressively flexed by wind in cold weather when the hot-melt glue became very stiff and brittle. The bond between the glue and coax jacket then failed and resulted in moisture intrusion. I have since installed cables with much longer heatshrink and many coax supports to inhibit any movement. I took a picture of this exact connection after rework on my website here (note broken phasing network cover due to falling ice):

https://proaudioeng.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/20140822_103713.jpg

For connections with hardware such as lugs under screws and nuts, as well as sealing exterior cabinet panels we use Scotchseal 800 which in my experience will give years of life and seals pretty well to metals and plastics even when exposed to UV and weather.

Remember: bonding occurs at the molecular level which means the molecules you wish to bond together must be able to interact. Oils, moisture, and dust can all inhibit tape/adhesive bonding. Cleanliness is imperative.

Just my $0.02 worth,

Howie - WA4PSC
CE - WXYC-FM
UNC Chapel Hill, NC


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