Hello T-Talkers,
Just some feedback ref. some observations I see here.
First, thanks to several responses today and yesterday ref. Bury-Flex and our
connectors. I am a cable design engineer of specialty and custom control,
monitoring, RF, etc. cables.
Bury-Flex is a highly lauded/effective low loss buriable cable that I designed
around 15 years ago for not only the ham market, but use by Lockheed Martin,
FAA and NASA (in their Cape Can. ground station). I use a specialized PE outer
jacket that is impervious to UV, water, and certain chemicals (I also use that
same jacket for control cable that we supply to a septic flow meter company,
thus it is submerged in septage to connect with the submerged in "crap"
water flow meters. I sometimes refer to that cable as our " Shxtty Cable" HI
As the late Press Jones , bless his heart , once said, "imitation is the best
form of flattery"…. Bury Flex ™ has been imitated by at least several entities.
Connector comments: Yes, I agree completely , and so do marine electronics
engineers, that electronic installations, can be completely effective using
crimp connectors for the braid, but as several pointed out here, despite high
quality crimp connectors, the procedure is to solder the center conductor.
Ref. soldering connectors shields of Bury-Flex ™ to male UHF connectors (aka PL
259's): Somewhat often I see the comment, as I did today, that the
second/aluminum shield makes it difficult to solder the shield to the PL 259 .
Please keep in mind that you can cut that alum. shield back , just a fraction
of an inch to just expose the braid shield (which on Bury-Flex ™ is tinned to
both make it easier to solder, and to make if more resistant to copper
oxidation (which should not occur if you seal the connector to the cable
properly…another subject). By cutting back the Alum. shield, you are not
degrading the shielding effectiveness because that whole portion of the cable
itself is inside the connector body which in and of itself is a 100% shield.
So, "forget" the aluminum and you will not need a high wattage iron or gun.
Hope that helps
As an aside: connectors: Nickel plate vs. Silver plate. First, ANY connector
outside needs to have properly sealed covering , over the connector and back
onto at least an inch of the cable. Even N connectors that have "weatherproof
seals" need to be water proofed (vs. "weather or moisture proof) Secondly ,
if not water proofed, a silver plated connector , will conduct through the
silver oxide that will form, whereas Nickel oxide will not conduct.
The comment ref Heat Shrink: Yes, this is one of several options to water
proof connectors to cable. But please note that heat shrink (HS) comes in
several types. THe type you want to use is
"adhesive lined" HS. Heat it, from center to the right end, then to the left
end, uniformly shrink onto the cable and connector and then watch for just the
slight beginning of a clear "ooze" that is seen coming out each end of the HS.
This is the adhesive.
If you use any type of waterproofing, where the connector front end attaches
to a female connector (any type female UHF, N, etc), you need to be sure that
the
exposed threads on the female are completely engulfed, waterproofed, by
whatever waterproofing material you are using, HS or water pressure resistant
tape.
Crimp vs. Solder: Ok , yes, this topic has been revisited numerous times on
TTAlk over the many years. This is just my opinion based on a lot of use of
both methods over many years and seeing the need for solid quality crimp
connectors for use field installations where electric irons, or butane irons
are not used, or in the bilge of a boat, or up on the tower: a quality crimp
connector, properly installed with a proper install tool, is as good as any
quality solder-on connector, from both a mechanical and electrical standpoint.
And in fact, how many times do you see (as in this recent posting) or yourself
feel, that soldering is not one's best skill, or ability to tolerate the
process.
Just my opinion and I don't think it necessary to open up a whole reiteration
of this subject, as all that pro and con is in the TT archives….. :=)
Lastly, Steve, L7LXC, has ok'd the following: Three years ago I set up a
totally separate co.: separate staff, location, and no financial relationship
with DAVIS RF, that sells many types of
rope for numerous applications, to include all of the commonly used sizes for
wire antennas, mast supports, certain tower supports , as well as a special
1/2" rope for gin poles, with a tensile strength of 7500 lbs. Other ropes for
towing, marine, anchoring, hoisting/pulling, sail shades, etc.. All Made in
USA and you will not find these high quality ropes at lower prices anywhere
(except perhaps based on a fire sale). DAVIS ROPE AND CABLE ASSEMBLY Co. , LLC
website: DavisRopeAndCable.com (the cable assembly refers only to
cable assembly work that we do, only for commercial entities. Our other co.,
DAVIS RF, will do ham cable assemblies based on Milspec procedures, and the
labor cost will be higher than most other ham assembly co's.)
Back to the rope co.: We provide free application consultation. You tell us
what you are doing, the approx. lengths and load factor (we can usually figure
the load factor for you, with your details provided).
As with our affiliate DAVIS RF, the rope company has been very successful and
adheres tightly to our devotion, as many of you know, to Customer Satisfaction,
quality product and price effectiveness.
Feel free to contact me directly with any questions about products or product
technical aspects, FOR EITHER of our two companies. If contacting me for
specs, technical or pricing, probably best to contact me directly vs. using
bandwidth on this T Talk website. Tnx guys !!
73, Cheers, Steve Davis, K1PEK
sdavis@DavisRF.com
Direct to me: 978 369 1738: 6 Days Mon-Sat. by phone, 0900 - 2100 EST,
Sundays: refreshing my sanity, tnx, but emails welcome, answered occasionally
on Sun, or by Monday.
On Jun 24, 2018, at 12:00 PM, towertalk-request@contesting.com wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2018 12:25:47 -0400
> From: "William J. Nicosia" <WB2ZKX@optimum.net>
> To: towertalk@contesting.com
> Subject: [TowerTalk] UHF (PL259) Connector Supplier
> Message-ID: <8128a3d4-42c5-1035-da01-e1eddb2ce307@optimum.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
>
> ??? ??? ??? These are my choices for connectors/cable, no failures
> since 2009:
>
> ??? ??? ??? RG-213, Davis RF, Marine Grade, White Jacket.
>
> ??? ??? ??? UHF/PL-259, RF Parts Co., Crimp Type.
>
> ??? ??? ??? Cable Prep Tools, DX Engineering Kit.
>
> ??? ??? ??? Cush Craft, PVC Push-On Boots
>
> ??? ??? ??? My technique is to crimp the braid ferrule with the proper
> tool and solder the tip (no crimp). If you can find them install the
> Cush Craft boot first. ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? Anybody who knows a supplier
> of these, let me know. Finally, solder the tip. Fill the pin on the
> connector.
>
> ??? ??? ??? No failures caused by bad connector or cable prep or
> corrosion since 2009. Adding some dielectric grease to the connector
> threads is not a bad ??? ??? ??? ??? idea either.
>
> ??? ??? ??? Bill, W2ZKX
>
>
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
> https://www.avg.com
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2018 12:28:27 -0400
> From: Edward Mccann <edwmccann@yahoo.com>
> To: "William J. Nicosia" <WB2ZKX@optimum.net>
> Cc: towertalk@contesting.com
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] UHF (PL259) Connector Supplier
> Message-ID: <E01B6496-C337-441F-B46E-2075E42E86CB@yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> Bill:
> Is the dielectric grease conducting or insulating?
> And your basis for use? Ease of removal?
> Your comments welcome.
> 73
> AG6CX
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Jun 23, 2018, at 12:25 PM, William J. Nicosia <WB2ZKX@optimum.net> wrote:
>>
>> These are my choices for connectors/cable, no failures since 2009:
>>
>> RG-213, Davis RF, Marine Grade, White Jacket.
>>
>> UHF/PL-259, RF Parts Co., Crimp Type.
>>
>> Cable Prep Tools, DX Engineering Kit.
>>
>> Cush Craft, PVC Push-On Boots
>>
>> My technique is to crimp the braid ferrule with the proper tool
>> and solder the tip (no crimp). If you can find them install the Cush Craft
>> boot first. Anybody who knows a supplier of these, let
>> me know. Finally, solder the tip. Fill the pin on the connector.
>>
>> No failures caused by bad connector or cable prep or corrosion
>> since 2009. Adding some dielectric grease to the connector threads is not a
>> bad idea either.
>>
>> Bill, W2ZKX
>>
>>
>> ---
>> This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
>> https://www.avg.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> TowerTalk mailing list
>> TowerTalk@contesting.com
>> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2018 10:00:01 -0700
> From: "Jim Thomson" <jim.thom@telus.net>
> To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
> Subject: [TowerTalk] UHF (PL259) soldered center with braid crimp
> Message-ID: <26945647D3A74C3680807FC28FC612F3@DESKTOPSV54DBH>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2018 09:16:06 -0400
> From: "Bob Shohet, KQ2M" <kq2m@kq2m.com>
> To: "Jim W7RY" <jimw7ry@gmail.com>, <towertalk@contesting.com>,
> "Martin Sole" <hs0zed@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] UHF (PL259) soldered center with braid crimp
> or crimp-crimp, supply?
>
> <His prices are positively OBSCENE!
>
>
> <Bob KQ2M
>
>
> ## His prices are for packages of 10 .... not just one. Some of his
> items are for packages of 6. They are cheap.
> The dx eng version is same price..but comes in packages of 6.
>
> Jim VE7RF
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2018 11:00:50 -0700 (PDT)
> From: terry burge <ki7m@comcast.net>
> To: Martin Sole <hs0zed@gmail.com>, towertalk@contesting.com
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] UHF (PL259) soldered center with braid crimp
> or crimp-crimp, supply?
> Message-ID: <1446042575.181800.1529776850879@connect.xfinity.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
>
> Hi Martin and the group,
>
> I've tried many types of solder on PL-259's and I like the gold plated tips.
> I've had a couple of the more standard silver ones that broke out the back
> ring on the screw on cover piece. I thought they were Amphenol but that may
> be wrong. But now I stay with the gold center conductor type. They also seem
> easier to solder on. Which matters to me especially since my ability to
> solder on coax connectors could be called 'suspect'. I can really make a mess
> of them sometimes without trying.
>
> Terry
> KI7M
>
> (now back to 10 and 6 meters for some fun)
>> On June 23, 2018 at 4:41 AM Martin Sole <hs0zed@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Hi,
>>
>> Can anyone recommend a UHF male plug with either a soldered or crimp
>> centre and a crimp braid connection suitable for RG213/RG8 cable.
>> Supplier and Part num would be ideal.
>>
>> Preferably no pot metal or re-cycled saucepans :)
>>
>> Thanks
>> Martin, HS0ZED
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> TowerTalk mailing list
>> TowerTalk@contesting.com
>> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2018 11:25:50 -0700
> From: Grant Saviers <grants2@pacbell.net>
> To: towertalk@contesting.com
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] UHF (PL259) Connector Supplier
> Message-ID: <5B2E90AE.4010800@pacbell.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
>
> I would add the following
>
> Marine grade 213 has the advantage over other 213 of a tinned braid
> which helps with soldering. I have some 20 years old that loss tests
> show good as new. But it is still RG8 losses with the solid dielectric.
>
> Davis Buryflex and DXengineering 400MAX (just installed 500') are my
> favorites (except hardline) for lower loss. I don't like the LMR or
> 9913 jackets. Now replacing 9913 installed when Buryflex was out of
> stock. With the heat sinking of the foil layer, it is hard , but
> possible to solder the braid to PL with a 250 watt Weller gun. Forget
> about it outside. For foil plus braid over foam, crimping is better
> IMO for the shield and I agree soldering for the center conductor to
> eliminate one moisture path and to preserve the pin geometry.
>
> I like to adhesive filled heat shrink seal the cable jacket to PL
> shank. Heating the PL with the heat gun prior to sliding on the HS
> insures the adhesive bonds. However, some crimp PL's have a very short
> shank for the heat shrink.
>
> I try to avoid SO239's on anything outside as have never found a good
> way to make the PL-SO connection really watertight and few SO's on
> commercial gear are sealed well enough on the flange anyway. For entry
> to J-boxes, chokes, baluns, etc. my preference is watertight glands the
> right diameter for the coax. All beam chokes have the feedpoint choke
> done this way to avoid any use of connectors out on booms where they
> can't be accessed without a lot of work. If PL-SO connections are
> required, eg lightning arresters, they are inside an enclosure.
>
> All connector to connector outside joints use the commercially proven
> Commscope/Heliax tape/butyl/tape sealing technique. My commercial tower
> guy then sprays 2 or 3 coats of outdoor clear acrylic over the outer
> tape layer. There are about 8 PL-barrel-PL uses from a $15 kit. I only
> use Amphenol barrels after bad experiences with others.
>
> The suppliers mentioned all seem to have quality PL's. For me, all
> hardline uses DIN's where possible.
>
> And I've proved that poorly crimped connections up 100' get to be the
> worlds most expensive connectors. Also verified it is important to keep
> connectors free of residual cable bending forces and wind or rotator
> induced motions.
>
> Grant KZ1W
>
> On 6/23/2018 9:25 AM, William J. Nicosia wrote:
>> These are my choices for connectors/cable, no failures
>> since 2009:
>>
>> RG-213, Davis RF, Marine Grade, White Jacket.
>>
>> UHF/PL-259, RF Parts Co., Crimp Type.
>>
>> Cable Prep Tools, DX Engineering Kit.
>>
>> Cush Craft, PVC Push-On Boots
>>
>> My technique is to crimp the braid ferrule with the proper
>> tool and solder the tip (no crimp). If you can find them install the
>> Cush Craft boot first. Anybody who knows a
>> supplier of these, let me know. Finally, solder the tip. Fill the pin
>> on the connector.
>>
>> No failures caused by bad connector or cable prep or
>> corrosion since 2009. Adding some dielectric grease to the connector
>> threads is not a bad idea either.
>>
>> Bill, W2ZKX
>>
>>
>> ---
>> This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
>> https://www.avg.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> TowerTalk mailing list
>> TowerTalk@contesting.com
>> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Subject: Digest Footer
>
> _______________________________________________
> TowerTalk mailing list
> TowerTalk@contesting.com
> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of TowerTalk Digest, Vol 186, Issue 19
> ******************************************
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