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Re: [TowerTalk] ...and another coax adapter question

To: towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] ...and another coax adapter question
From: Jim Brown <jim@audiosystemsgroup.com>
Reply-to: jim@audiosystemsgroup.com
Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2023 11:53:58 -0800
List-post: <mailto:towertalk@contesting.com>
On 11/24/2023 10:59 AM, Scott Townley wrote:
How do I separate the wheat from the chaff?  I have a fully equipped bench...I would think the go-to would be a TDR measurement.  Any better/additional suggestions?
Look at them carefully. If they aren't labeled Amphenol or stamped with 
MIL-spec numbers, they're junk.  It's all about mechanical construction. 
Measurements won't show it.
I've bought surplus MIL-spec adapters at ham flea-markets. Amphenol 
parts are sold by legacy electronics vendors like Allied, Newark, Arrow, 
etc. There are a few ham vendors who sell them, but many also sell junk 
connectors. The real thing is 2-3x more expensive. Here's one quality 
vendor that sells both the real thing and the junk. They don't offer 
quantity discounts, while the traditional electronics vendors do.
https://www.rfparts.com/sitemap

We sometimes need to study the Amphenol parts listing to know which connector to buy. For example, they manufacture the solder-type PL259 with at least 4 different part numbers, all of which start with 83-1SP. The one we want is the one with no suffix, because the body is silver plated, and thus easier to solder to.
73, Jim K9YC
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