[Amps] TL-922A 10 Meter Mods

[Bob Jones]

Some are pre-wired for 10 meters and all you need to do is remove a screw
stop on the band switch.This allows the switch to travel one step past the
15 meter position.Others require modifications and additional parts.This
modification is available on the net but I'm not sure where.Maybe someone
will point you there.

My TL-922A just required the removal of the screw.It works great on 10 and
12 meters.

Good luck and 73,

Bob
W0OXJ


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <amps-request at contesting.com>
To: <amps at contesting.com>
Sent: Monday, December 08, 2003 6:59 AM
Subject: Amps Digest, Vol 12, Issue 17


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> Today's Topics:
>
>    1. Re: SB-200 Output Power Too High? (John)
>    2. Re: Re: SB-220 on 220V (Michael Tope)
>    3. RE 220
>    4. Re: Re: Neutral and ground is in how you use them (was SB-220
>        on 220V) (Gary Schafer)
>    5. TL922 (ZL2AAA)
>    6. Sockets for GU-84B (Mark Hill)
>    7. RE: arco variable capacitor data (David Harmon)
>    8. SB-200 parts? (Kenneth Cechura)
>    9. Re: Re: Neutral and ground is in how you use them (was SB-220
>       on 220V) (R.Measures)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2003 18:54:05 -0500
> From: "John" <hydroaction at cfl.rr.com>
> To: <amps at contesting.com>
> Subject: Re: [Amps] SB-200 Output Power Too High?
> Message-ID: <001e01c3bd1d$66712c20$6500a8c0 at cfl.rr.com>
> References: <20031207.053336.-20331.0.wb8jkr at juno.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;
> charset="Windows-1252"
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> Precedence: list
> Message: 1
>
> My SB-200 With new cetron tubes does 750 + on 75, 40 , 20 meters
.....about 650 + on
> the rest. this is on 220volts and measured on the bird meter. When my line
voltage is
> real high it will do another 50 watts. It has been going strong for over 5
years
>
> john
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2003 16:43:44 -0800
> From: "Michael Tope" <W4EF at dellroy.com>
> To: <rlm at mail.somis.org>, "Dave Haupt" <emailw8nf at yahoo.com>,
> " AMPS" <amps at contesting.com>
> Subject: Re: [Amps] Re: SB-220 on 220V
> Message-ID: <012c01c3bd24$5579bde0$0100a8c0 at 1800XP>
> References: <03Dec7.000323-0800_pst.303970-8705+541 at lmg.ahnet.net>
> Precedence: list
> Message: 2
>
> Roughly Zero Volts DC - since the neutral and safety ground
> are connected together at the AC mains service entrance.
> If you want to do things per NEC, you aren't supposed to
> let the chassis connection carry any return current, therefore
> the neutral wire shouldn't be connected to chassis if its
> also carrying load return current (as in the case of the Henry
> 2K-D). If you don't give a hoot about NEC, then you can run
> the load return current through the third wire chassis
> connection if it makes you happy. Even if its a green wire,
> the electrons won't care (unlike a building inspector).
>
> 73 de Mike, W4EF.................................................
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <rlm at mail.somis.org>
> To: "Michael Tope" <W4EF at dellroy.com>; "Dave Haupt" <emailw8nf at yahoo.com>;
"
> AMPS" <amps at contesting.com>
> Sent: Sunday, December 07, 2003 12:02 AM
> Subject: Re: [Amps] Re: SB-220 on 220V
>
>
> >
> >
> > >I agree with Dave. I recently wired an SB-221 for
> > >240V service. It was wired exactly as Dave
> > >describes (third wire is chassis to AC
> > >mains safety ground connection). There is no
> > >connection between the amplifier and the AC
> > >mains neutral.
> >
> > **  If there is no connection between the two. what is the potential
> > difference between the neutral and ground?
> >
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2003 21:41:24 EST
> From: Ku4uk at aol.com
> To: amps at contesting.com
> Subject: [Amps] RE 220
> Message-ID: <135.28d216e6.2d053ed4 at aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> Precedence: list
> Message: 3
>
> Sorry I got this started on wiring the SB-220. Maybe we have beat it to
death
> now. To say anything is just to repeat everything that has been said. But
> have received a few email. That say they dont use the neutral wire. Just
the two
> hot wires for 220 v. It seems to me if you dont use the third wire to
chassis.
> which goes back to breaker box. If there is a short to chassis. the
breaker
> may not trip. And you could become ground if you touch metal. My breaker
box
> has a bare strip for all neutral wires. It has a heavy wire going from
strip to
> 8 ft ground rod and meter base. which is also grounded to power pole
ground.
> The third wire going to chassis on the sb220 does not carry current. but I
> would be afraid not to use it. Be safe, move on. long live CW.
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 07 Dec 2003 22:18:03 -0500
> From: Gary Schafer <garyschafer at comcast.net>
> To: "R.Measures" <r at somis.org>
> Cc: AMPS <amps at contesting.com>
> Cc: Dave Haupt <emailw8nf at yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: [Amps] Re: Neutral and ground is in how you use them (was
SB-220
>  on 220V)
> Message-ID: <3FD3ED6B.1000608 at comcast.net>
> References: <20031207094925.91A7731A9E8 at dayton.akorn.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> Precedence: list
> Reply-To: garyschafer at comcast.net
> Message: 4
>
>
>
> R.Measures wrote:
> >
>
> >
> > **  The neutral in the 240V outlet for the amplifier is shared with
every
> > 120V and every 240V circuit in the house because All of the neutrals
> > connect to the neutral/ground terminal strip in the breaker-box.  If I
am
> > fortunate, it is that I know Ohm's law good enough to get by.
> >
> > __  Which is what I do on the 240v outlet for the tetrodes-with-handles
> > mains outlet.  //  The imbalance current is c. 85mA-avg in the
> > neutral/ground because I utilize one side of the mains-neutral potential
> > to power a half-wave rectified, C-filtered 160VDC supply for operating
> > the high-speed T/R relays.  Although there are some who would be alarmed
> > about the potential-drop in 99' of #6 wire at 85mA, I am not one of
them.
> >
> >
>
> Rich, I am sure that you know and understand this stuff but some others
> may not.
>
> 1. The biggest reason for having separate ground and neutral wires is to
> insure safety in case the neutral should open (in the case of a common
> ground/neutral system like you use.
> Even your 85 ma that you are running on your common ground/neutral line
> can be a hazard. If the ground/neutral line opens anywhere you will have
> 120 volts at chassis through the transformer primary with enough current
> to cause electrocution if you are between chassis and some other ground.
>
> In your system it may not be too likely to happen. However in many
> wiring installations it can easily happen.
>
> One house that I owned years ago (was a brand new house too) had
> problems with some of the wiring. Upon further looking I found that just
> about every outlet in the house had the wires wrapped around the screw
> terminals loosely as you normally would, but the screws were never
> turned down! Most of the outlets worked properly as far as I knew. I
> would have never known if I had not opened them up and looked at them.
> That is unless I had a fire first!
> Suppose in that house I had a 220 outlet with only 3 wires used as you
> do above. I could have very easily had a poor (guaranteed to be poor!)
> neutral/ground lead.
>
> If your 220 line had it's ground/neutral connection wired like that and
> you were using it as a neutral/ground you could very easily have a "hot
> chassis". I have also seen "electrician" installations where the lugs in
>   the breaker panel where not tightened. Wires slipped into hole but
> never tightened down. they make a connection but not a reliable one.
>
> It is easy to have a poor outlet connection too. Fingers in the plug not
> making proper contact. Especially on older / well used outlets.
>
> If any of these things happen on your neutral/ground line then you are
> sure to have a "hot" chassis because you are asking that line to carry
> current that is tied to the chassis.
>
> But if you have a separate neutral and ground line then even if you
> would have a poor connection on ANY of the lines (even the ground line)
> you would not have a "hot" chassis. Unless of course there were multiple
> faults.
>
> 2. As to "proper to code installation of wires" you may use any color
> wire that you wish. Even all black wires. Yes even for ground and
> neutral! But each end is supposed to be tagged with proper colored tape
> to identify them.
> I do it in my own stuff mainly to be able to identify what I did several
> years latter.
> If you use 3 conductor Romex for a 220 line (black, white and bare)
> the white wire should be marked with red tape on each end. The main
> reason to do so is to tell someone that may be in that circuit doing
> repair work that that is a 220 line and not a 120 volt line neutral.
>
> 3.  A three wire 220 line as above is perfectly fine with the NEC as
> long as it is used as "hot, hot' ground and no neutral is involved.
>
> A 3 wire 220 line is fine for most of the amplifiers provided there is
> no 120 volt / neutral requirement.
>
> 4.  I saw someone post earlier that "ground wires and neutral wires were
> intermingled on the lugs in the breaker panel". Even though the two buss
> bars are tied together in the panel the proper way (to NEC code) is to
> connect all the neutral wires to the neutral buss bar and all the ground
> wires to the ground buss bar and not intermingle them.
> There is good reason for it. Though they may be electrically the same,
> it is much easier to identify which is which when looking in the crowded
> panel to try and identify a wire. Also if you have an external main
> breaker or this panel happens to be a sub panel the ground and neutral
> would NOT be the same at that point.
>
> 5.  Yes inspectors do (should) look for properly identified (proper
> color) wires. You may know what they are on your own work but the next
> guy that comes along may not know where they are supposed to go unless
> they are the standard color codes.
>
> 73
> Gary  K4FMX
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 08 Dec 2003 16:22:49 +1300
> From: ZL2AAA <zl2aaa at paradise.net.nz>
> To: amps at contesting.com
> Subject: [Amps] TL922
> Message-ID: <001e01c3bd3a$c21c6720$8523f6d2 at white>
> Content-Type: text/plain;
> charset="Windows-1252"
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> Precedence: list
> Message: 5
>
> Can anyone tell me what is involved to get this amp on 10m or point me =
> to a web site which explains or shows how to do this Tnx MorrieFrom
nospam4me at juno.com  Mon Dec  8 00:38:29 2003
> Return-Path: <nospam4me at juno.com>
> X-Original-To: amps at contesting.com
> Delivered-To: amps at contesting.com
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> by dayton.akorn.net (Postfix) with SMTP id 7F29F31AA97
> for <amps at contesting.com>; Mon,  8 Dec 2003 00:38:28 -0500 (EST)
> Received: from cookie.untd.com by cookie.untd.com for
> <"iZc1syh9h4DufJXfj63YZJRa+s48yUEixcRgR32VPrfmi/x5At275Q==">; Sun, 07 Dec
2003
> 21:37:34 PST
> Received: (from nospam4me at juno.com)
>  by m09.lax.untd.com (jqueuemail) id JGUUHPKA; Sun, 07 Dec 2003 21:37:34
PST
> To: amps at contesting.com
> Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2003 21:34:45 -0800
> Message-ID: <20031207.213447.-434059.2.nospam4me at juno.com>
> X-Mailer: Juno 4.0.11
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> From: skipp isaham <nospam4me at juno.com>
> X-Mailman-Approved-At: Mon, 08 Dec 2003 02:14:54 -0500
> Subject: [Amps] arco variable capacitor data
> X-BeenThere: amps at contesting.com
> X-Mailman-Version: 2.1
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> List-Id: Amps Reflector <amps.contesting.com>
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> <mailto:amps-request at contesting.com?subject=subscribe>
>
> Anyone know of an On-line description for the
> arco type of trimmer caps?  In specific, the
> famous arco 429 and similar series caps
> that have been made for decades?
>
> These are most often the small square
> units.
>
> Who, what, where is arco now?  Would
> any on-line parts description be available?
>
> thanks
>
> skipp
> nospam4me at juno.com
>
>
> Also, thank you to everyone for your replies
> to my series connection of four 572b tubes.
>
> I'm going to help the amp owner with a
> circuit and let you folks know what happens.
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________
> The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
> Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
> Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 08 Dec 2003 09:42:33 +0000
> From: Mark Hill <g4fph at mjha.co.uk>
> To: Amps Reflector <amps at contesting.com>
> Subject: [Amps] Sockets for GU-84B
> Message-ID: <6.0.1.1.2.20031208094021.02474c88 at mail.plus.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Precedence: list
> Message: 6
>
> Folks,
>
> Thanks to all that replied to my request for information regarding the
above.
>
> RF Parts seems to win on price, with Tom as an alternative source.  I had
> no joy with any of the Russian sources mentioned.
>
> Regards.
>
> Mark.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 00:04:40 -0800
> From: "David Harmon" <K6XYZ at comcast.net>
> To: "'skipp isaham'" <nospam4me at juno.com>, <amps at contesting.com>
> Subject: RE: [Amps] arco variable capacitor data
> Message-ID: <000c01c3bd61$f21e5f60$9c80e542 at skunkputer>
> In-Reply-To: <20031207.213447.-434059.2.nospam4me at juno.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;
> charset="us-ascii"
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> Precedence: list
> Message: 7
>
> First hit on my browser....
>
> http://www.arco-electronics.com/arco2/mica/range.html
>
> Regards
>
> Dave Harmon
> NSRCA 586
> K6XYZ at comcast.net
> Torrance, Ca.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: amps-bounces at contesting.com [mailto:amps-bounces at contesting.com]
> On Behalf Of skipp isaham
> Sent: Sunday, December 07, 2003 9:35 PM
> To: amps at contesting.com
> Subject: [Amps] arco variable capacitor data
>
> Anyone know of an On-line description for the
> arco type of trimmer caps?  In specific, the
> famous arco 429 and similar series caps
> that have been made for decades?
>
> These are most often the small square
> units.
>
> Who, what, where is arco now?  Would
> any on-line parts description be available?
>
> thanks
>
> skipp
> nospam4me at juno.com
>
>
> Also, thank you to everyone for your replies
> to my series connection of four 572b tubes.
>
> I'm going to help the amp owner with a
> circuit and let you folks know what happens.
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________
> The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
> Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
> Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!
> _______________________________________________
> Amps mailing list
> Amps at contesting.com
> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/amps
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 07:49:31 -0600
> From: Kenneth Cechura <kcechura at umr.edu>
> To: amps at contesting.com
> Subject: [Amps] SB-200 parts?
> Message-ID: <20031208134930.GA25554 at umr.edu>
> In-Reply-To: <001e01c3bd1d$66712c20$6500a8c0 at cfl.rr.com>
> References: <20031207.053336.-20331.0.wb8jkr at juno.com>
> <001e01c3bd1d$66712c20$6500a8c0 at cfl.rr.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Precedence: list
> Message: 8
>
> I have an SB200 that I am working on repairing....   had some nasty things
> done to it....
>
> anyway, i plan on addind the harbauch mods eventually, but for now, just
> want it to work...
>
> I think the tubes are weak, but that's not a big deal at the moment
> (300-400W out max with 100W drive)
>
> but my bandswitches are messed up.  i have to kindof jiggle the switch out
> of the slot to get output...   anyone know where i can get a new set of
> bandswitch wafers, or if this was a common problem, how to fix it?
>
> thanks
> Ken
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 03:41:18 -0800
> From: R.Measures <r at somis.org>
> To: <garyschafer at comcast.net>
> Cc: AMPS <amps at contesting.com>
> Cc: Dave Haupt <emailw8nf at yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: [Amps] Re: Neutral and ground is in how you use them (was
SB-220
> on 220V)
> Message-ID: <20031208114224.012D031A55C at dayton.akorn.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Precedence: list
> Message: 9
>
>
>
> >
> >
> >R.Measures wrote:
> >>
> >
> >>
> >> **  The neutral in the 240V outlet for the amplifier is shared with
every
> >> 120V and every 240V circuit in the house because All of the neutrals
> >> connect to the neutral/ground terminal strip in the breaker-box.  If I
am
> >> fortunate, it is that I know Ohm's law good enough to get by.
> >>
> >> __  Which is what I do on the 240v outlet for the tetrodes-with-handles
> >> mains outlet.  //  The imbalance current is c. 85mA-avg in the
> >> neutral/ground because I utilize one side of the mains-neutral
potential
> >> to power a half-wave rectified, C-filtered 160VDC supply for operating
> >> the high-speed T/R relays.  Although there are some who would be
alarmed
> >> about the potential-drop in 99' of #6 wire at 85mA, I am not one of
them.
> >>
> >>
> >
> >Rich, I am sure that you know and understand this stuff but some others
> >may not.
> >
> >1. The biggest reason for having separate ground and neutral wires is to
> >insure safety in case the neutral should open (in the case of a common
> >ground/neutral system like you use.
> >Even your 85 ma that you are running on your common ground/neutral line
> >can be a hazard. If the ground/neutral line opens anywhere you will have
> >120 volts at chassis through the transformer primary with enough current
> >to cause electrocution if you are between chassis and some other ground.
> >
> ** Providing this person was standing in water.
>
> >In your system it may not be too likely to happen. However in many
> >wiring installations it can easily happen.
> >
> >One house that I owned years ago (was a brand new house too) had
> >problems with some of the wiring. Upon further looking I found that just
> >about every outlet in the house had the wires wrapped around the screw
> >terminals loosely as you normally would, but the screws were never
> >turned down! Most of the outlets worked properly as far as I knew. I
> >would have never known if I had not opened them up and looked at them.
> >That is unless I had a fire first!
> >Suppose in that house I had a 220 outlet with only 3 wires used as you
> >do above. I could have very easily had a poor (guaranteed to be poor!)
> >neutral/ground lead.
> >
> >If your 220 line had it's ground/neutral connection wired like that and
> >you were using it as a neutral/ground you could very easily have a "hot
> >chassis". I have also seen "electrician" installations where the lugs in
> >  the breaker panel where not tightened. Wires slipped into hole but
> >never tightened down. they make a connection but not a reliable one.
> >
> >It is easy to have a poor outlet connection too. Fingers in the plug not
> >making proper contact. Especially on older / well used outlets.
> >
> >If any of these things happen on your neutral/ground line then you are
> >sure to have a "hot" chassis because you are asking that line to carry
> >current that is tied to the chassis.
> >
> >But if you have a separate neutral and ground line then even if you
> >would have a poor connection on ANY of the lines (even the ground line)
> >you would not have a "hot" chassis. Unless of course there were multiple
> >faults.
>
> **  If the screws are not tightened on the ground and neutral wires, you
> would.
> >
> >2. As to "proper to code installation of wires" you may use any color
> >wire that you wish. Even all black wires. Yes even for ground and
> >neutral! But each end is supposed to be tagged with proper colored tape
> >to identify them.
>
> **  I identify them by size.  #6 is ground/neutral and the #4s are mains.
>
>
> >I do it in my own stuff mainly to be able to identify what I did several
> >years latter.
> >If you use 3 conductor Romex for a 220 line (black, white and bare)
> >the white wire should be marked with red tape on each end. The main
> >reason to do so is to tell someone that may be in that circuit doing
> >repair work that that is a 220 line and not a 120 volt line neutral.
> >
> >3.  A three wire 220 line as above is perfectly fine with the NEC as
> >long as it is used as "hot, hot' ground and no neutral is involved.
>
> **  How can neutral be not involved if the not-hot third wire connects to
> the ground/neutral terminal strip?
> >
> >A 3 wire 220 line is fine for most of the amplifiers provided there is
> >no 120 volt / neutral requirement.
>
> **  I have been using one half of the amplifier's 240vct, 20A circuit to
> power my 120v radio and soldering iron for the past 28-years.
> >
> >4.  I saw someone post earlier that "ground wires and neutral wires were
> >intermingled on the lugs in the breaker panel". Even though the two buss
> >bars are tied together in the panel the proper way (to NEC code) is to
> >connect all the neutral wires to the neutral buss bar and all the ground
> >wires to the ground buss bar and not intermingle them.
>
> **  In my General Electric Co. box there is one common strip for all of
> the neutral and ground wires
>
> >There is good reason for it.
>
> **  Apparently, GE did not think so.
>
> >Though they may be electrically the same,
> >it is much easier to identify which is which when looking in the crowded
> >panel to try and identify a wire. Also if you have an external main
> >breaker or this panel happens to be a sub panel the ground and neutral
> >would NOT be the same at that point.
> >
> >5.  Yes inspectors do (should) look for properly identified (proper
> >color) wires. You may know what they are on your own work but the next
> >guy that comes along may not know where they are supposed to go unless
> >they are the standard color codes.
> >
> **  I trust my DMM more than I trust a color.
>
> cheers, Gary
> ------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> Amps mailing list
> Amps at contesting.com
> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/amps
>
>
> End of Amps Digest, Vol 12, Issue 17
> ************************************