[Amps] Powering 400w mobile amplifier...

[Jeffrey Madore]

Jeff,

I have to agree that your grounding methods make good sense by eliminating
the need to disturb the RF circuit.

Also, why not just add a second negative battery-to-block connection with
welding cable, to act as a back-up and not even worry about the starter /
loss of ground. I'm sure it happens, but I've never experienced the
negative-to-block connection fail on a vehicle. With a heavy duty back-up, I
don't worry about it to much.

Operating with the negative fuse opened has it's own complications. I omit
the fuse and depend on good connections.

Just think what happens if you lose the neutral connection in your home. We
have no protection for that. It does happen. I've had it happen and seen it
happen to others. It's usually due to poor workmanship.  My fix was to
bypass the utility, open the cable box at the street, disconnect my service,
and repair the sloppy work so that it won't likely happen again. At the same
time I pulled the meter and checked the connections there and at my panel. I
took the extra pains so that I know that I can depend on my service
connections. Oh yes, I did use safety equipment - gloves, blanket, glasses,
etc.

I also like Phil's (I think) idea of a second battery, as I've too,
experienced the modulated voltage. The battery terminals run around 12V but
the alternator brings that up to c. 14 when running. I've seen the 1 f cap
and would like to hear if that helps on ssb or cw. I also wonder if a heavy
duty alternator might be of help.

Just my thoughts and opinions, quite possibly worth no more than you paid
for them ;-)

Jeff - K1LE - CT ><>



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