[Amps] HL-2K

[MIKE DURKIN]

My home is of 1978 vintage and is wired to that code (and is wired with a 200A service). I pulled a hot tub out and it was wired with white/red/black wire (wich im planning on using). The black had green electrical tape on it - im figureing that its ok in this area to label the wires at the termination but not at the source ... Ill be soon powering the HL-2K clone (Yokagawa P9306UL) and see if the HV filter caps need replaced!!!!

I wouldnt call this a stumble in the progress of putting this medical amp into amateur service but never the less it has been the least productive for me.
Ill simply assume that there will be a bang when tripping the breakers - if not , well hope you will be happy in hearing me on the bands just a bit louder at times as i was at that moment !!!

> 
> 
> Robert Groh wrote:
> > Not sure but someone else may have answered your reply but, if not, here is my reply. 
> >
> > First, you shouldn't confuse the green wire with a neutral.  It is not a neutral, it is a 'grounding' conductor - that is, it is intended to ground the metal parts of the electrical appliance (e.g. your HL-1K).  The neutral wire is usually the white wire and it is usually connected to the unswitched side of the load.  The hot wires (typically black for 120 VAC or black and red for 240 VAC) are the wires normally switched.  
> >
> >   
> I see some differences and I don't know if you meant 3 wire 120 or 3 
> wire 240.
> > I was able to locate a schematic for the HL-1K amplifier on the net (nice amp, by the way!) and I would hook it up this way:
> > 120 VAC 3-wire    
> >     Black   120 VAC input switched input (check schematic)
> >     White   Neutral  - other 120 VAC input
> >   

thanks for all that replied 
.. im sure ill set this on top of the washing machine (this weekend) and wire from the hot tub breakers the amp and see what happens.

KC7NOA

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