[Amps] Clipperton L suggestion

Mitch Cox ww4cox at embarqmail.com
Sun Oct 31 16:09:25 PDT 2010


I know this sounds kind of stupid but a friend of mine had the same problem you are describing. He had inadvertently hooked the input and output coax connections on the back the wrong way. This nearly drove him crazy until he realized what he had done.
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Larry 
  To: Amps 
  Sent: Sunday, October 31, 2010 7:02 PM
  Subject: Re: [Amps] Clipperton L suggestion


  I did solder that small wire. I have continuity from the B+ pad on power 
  supply
  board to the plate caps.  The small wire came wrapped on a terminal lug so
  it was obvious I needed to do something with it.

  I am sure I missing something simple that I did or didn't do. Just trying to 
  find it.
  Didn't do much with the amp today as I was playing contest.

  73, Larry  W6NWS
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: "Alek Petkovic" <vk6apk at bigpond.com>
  To: "Larry" <w6nws at arrl.net>; "Amps" <amps at contesting.com>
  Sent: Sunday, October 31, 2010 5:45 PM
  Subject: Re: [Amps] Clipperton L suggestion


  > G'day Larry
  >
  > That Ameritron plate choke comes with the wire at the top, tinned but not 
  > soldered. Make sure you didn't forget to solder it and make sure the 
  > soldered joint is sound.
  >
  > I put the same choke in my Clipperton L and only noticed that I hadn't 
  > soldered the wire during the final once over before putting the covers on.
  >
  > 73, Alek
  >
  >
  > At 10:28 PM 31/10/2010, Larry wrote:
  >>I have had this amp since the 1980's and never had trouble with the TR 
  >>relay
  >>(well, other than it is slower than molasses). It was untouched in the 
  >>mods
  >>I did.
  >>But I did check continuity of the relay contacts. The TR relay does switch
  >>over.
  >>
  >>I think, as Roger also suggested, perhaps the problem is in the bias
  >>circuit. It too
  >>is affected by the TR relay. I did not directly change the bias circuit 
  >>but
  >>it was
  >>affected in the sense that the filament RFC was changed and it is related 
  >>to
  >>the
  >>bias circuit (a 47K resistor and 50W zener). The RFC was connected to a
  >>terminal
  >>strip which I moved about an inch to fit the new RFC in and it looks OK 
  >>and
  >>some
  >>continuity checks seemed OK but I am going to do some additional checks to
  >>make
  >>sure I didn't mess up something. The RFC and terminal strip are in the
  >>middle of the
  >>amp and the relay, resistor, and zener are on the back panel of the amp.
  >>
  >>73, Larry  W6NWS
  >>----- Original Message -----
  >>From: "Danny Pease" <dpease at adams.net>
  >>To: <amps at contesting.com>
  >>Sent: Sunday, October 31, 2010 9:10 AM
  >>Subject: Re: [Amps] Clipperton L suggestion
  >>
  >>
  >> > Larry, did you confirm continuity across the T/R  relay contacts? When 
  >> > I
  >> > had
  >> > a Clipperton, that was an ongoing issue.
  >> >
  >> >
  >> >
  >> > NG9R
  >> >
  >> >
  >> >
  >> >
  >> >
  >> > Message: 2
  >> > Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 23:34:20 -0400
  >> > From: "Larry" <lknain at nc.rr.com>
  >> > Subject: [Amps] Suggestions - I broke my amp
  >> > To: "Amps" <amps at contesting.com>
  >> > Message-ID: <6DE29DB55E8740479687855C81AF7535 at LarryKnainPC>
  >> > Content-Type: text/plain;       charset="iso-8859-1"
  >> >
  >> > I am looking for suggestions regarding my Clipperton-L. The basic 
  >> > problem
  >> > is
  >> > that there is
  >> > no output. No apparent plate current.
  >> >
  >> > I did several things:
  >> >
  >> > 1. I replaced the power supply board which seems to be working as the
  >> > meter
  >> > shows about
  >> > 2500V (I don't have an HV probe to confirm independently that there is
  >> > 2500V).
  >> > 2. I had to fix the parasitic suppressors so I put in an AL572 RFC and
  >> > suppressor board and
  >> > increased the bypass cap to 0.001.
  >> > 3. I changed the plate blocking cap to 2000pf (from 500pf) and changed 
  >> > a
  >> > couple of doorknobs
  >> > for 160. The no output has been checked only on 20 and 15 so far.
  >> > 4. I changed the filament RFC to an RF Parts RFCFIL30.
  >> >
  >> > Some other facts:
  >> >
  >> > 1. The filaments are lit.
  >> > 2. The meter shows what I recall as roughly the correct plate voltage.
  >> > 3. Using an ohmmeter there is continuity from the PS HV pad to the 
  >> > plate
  >> > connectors.
  >> > 4. There is no plate current that I can see. Although, I once saw the
  >> > plate
  >> > current go to about
  >> > 350mA and still no output.
  >> > 5. Several years ago I added a tuned input board and there is 
  >> > continuity
  >> > from the LVDC pad to
  >> > input board and the bandswitch (unchanged in current mod but changed 
  >> > with
  >> > the input board)
  >> > still works correctly.
  >> > 6. There is continuity from the plate to plate blocking capacitor and
  >> > continuity from the "other"
  >> > side of the plate blocking capacitor to the plate tuning capacitor.
  >> > 7. I rechecked the connections and still think everything is correct.
  >> > 8. No arcs, blown fuses, etc.
  >> >
  >> > I have obviously overlooked something. Suggestions?
  >> >
  >> > 73, Larry  W6NWS
  >> >
  >> >
  >> >
  >> > _______________________________________________
  >> > Amps mailing list
  >> > Amps at contesting.com
  >> > http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/amps
  >> >
  >>
  >>
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  >
  >
  > http://www.qrz.com/db/vk6apk
  > http://www.qrz.com/db/vk6ap
  >
  >
  > 


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