[Amps] Cool Amp Silver Plating

tlthompson tlthompson at qwest.net
Sat Mar 1 11:29:59 EST 2014


Whereas the discussion on silver plating is very interesting, one 
wonders if silver plating is really necessary in view of the experiments 
done by Larry, W0QE.

http://www.w0qe.com/Technical_Topics/inductor_Q_tests.html

Tom   W0IVJ

On 3/1/2014 8:09 AM, Jim Thomson wrote:
> Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2014 17:37:48 +0100
> From: peter chadwick <g8on at fsmail.net>
> To: MU 4CX250B <4cx250b at miamioh.edu>, Fuqua  Bill L <wlfuqu00 at uky.edu>
> Cc: "amps at contesting.com" <amps at contesting.com>
> Subject: Re: [Amps] Cool Amp Silver Plating
>
> ##  The stuff works superb.     I use vinal gloves or latex gloves.....like the throw away types.    You would be amazed at how the stuff works on relay contacts etc.   I have had several brand NEW  30-50 A DPDT relays..like deltrol,  P+B  etc, that have int contacts on one or both poles.      Also same issue with DPST  and also SPST  relays.      If these types are relays are used for RF switching... what usually happens is you lose all RX.   After the usual careful cleaning... I applied cool-amp  to the contacts..all of em....and no more int RX.      b4... with a fluke dvm, I would see typ 3-80 ohms.   And 0.0 ohms after the cool-amp glop applied.   They also make another product, called conducto lube..which is pure silver powder in grease.  Its used on sliding contacts and also relay contacts.   I have not tried it...yet.
>
> ##  I also use it on all cu tubing tank coils on my hb amps.     I also use it on all cu straps...like used on vac caps...and tank coil taps to bandswitch, etc, etc.     I hate the look of plane jane copper.   The finish on this cool amp stuff is superb...much better than real silver plating.  last forever....and doesn’t turn black.
>
> ## Trick is to clean the cu 1st.     I use JETS or SOS cleaning pads...... like the wife uses for  cleaning pots and pans.     Sorta looks like steel wool embedded with blue powder cleaning glop.   AFTER you cut the cu strap to length  and punch holes in it, etc, then form it to say the tank coil to bandswitch etc.... then remove it...and apply the cool-amp goop.    Forget rubbing it on with a cloth.    Use all 10 fingers and use latex or vinal  gloves  to apply the goop.  When every square inch is  covered... then rinse the piece in warm water..then let sit on some paper toweling....  and use more toweling to gently daub it to remove any excess water.   DON’T SCRUB IT to get water off.
>
> ##  The usual deal is to silver plate a whole mess of coils and straps etc.....all in one shot.
> ##  Plane CU looks awful imo.    It will discolour and even look worse down the road.        The cool-amp powder has an indefinite shelf life.     When u make a paste with it..... make the paste in a little tiny container.   You don’t want it too thin..u want it thick.
>
> Jim  VE7RF
>
>
> Whether it's worthwhile electrically depends on the frequency. At 144MHz, the skin depth is 0.2 mil (0.0002 inch) and you need about 5 skin depths to keep 99% of the current in the silver, or about 1 mil i.e. 0.001 inch. At 1.8 MHz, you need about 0.009 inches for 5 skin depths....
>
> But it looks a lot nicer than oxidized copper.
>
> 73
>
> Peter G3RZP
>
>
>
>
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