[Amps] What 811A's Should I Try to Find?

[Carl]

Look for discoloration on the anode, it should be a nice flat black.

Also no discoloration of the glass or those little filament support springs 
loose in the bottom...or little pieces of filaments.

A heat damaged base is not a good sign either and Im sure you already know 
what a tube gone to air looks like inside.

Carl

--------------------------------------------------
From: <qrv at kd4e.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2015 12:27 PM
To: <amps at contesting.com>
Subject: Re: [Amps] What 811A's Should I Try to Find?

> Carl,
>
> Since everything I read says 100 -> 600 -> 1200 watts are the
> meaningful points where the receiving station notices a difference I
> can see no reason to push it beyond 600w.
>
> Thanks re. the recommended tubes - I'll keep my eyes open.
>
> Any obvious visual symptoms of a bad tube or a soft tube -
> apart from a power tube capable tester?
>
> Thanks again - David
>
>> Any USA brand, RCA, GE, Raytheon, KenRad, Cetron, etc. Go for the latest
>> date codes
>> into the 70-80's.
>> Ive seen them mixed up in the 30L1 used by the USAF so Im half assuming
>> they
>> are all built to close tolerances that matching isnt required.
>>
>> And don't for a minute think you can abuse them either as those paper
>> thin anodes will melt
>> holes in them almost as easily as the Chinese.
>>
>> If you run that amp at 600-650W out instead of 800 they will last a long
>> time.
>>
>> Carl
>> KM1H
>>
>> --------------------------------------------------
>>
>>> I captured and saved VK1OD's abandoned page re. the 811H
>>> and associated tubes.
>>>
>>> I've also been reading threads here, and elsewhere.
>>>
>>> When I'm at Hamfests and have an opportunity to buy or trade
>>> for some 811A's - which manufacturer (and/or perhaps also date)
>>> should I look for, please?
>>>
>>> Thanks - David KD4E
>
>
>
> -- 
>
> *David*
> ~KD4E~
> Nevils, Georgia USA
>
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