[Amps] Topband: PL259 type connectors for RG11 LMR400

[qrv at kd4e.com]

Why not the Belden 9913F7, for VHF, please?

https://www.theantennafarm.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=342_345_515_544&products_id=1752

It looks to be about the same loss, more flexible, and about the same 
price as the LMR400.

The RG-213 has a VOC of 66% vs 84%, the 213 is higher loss (even on 6m), 
89% shield, and a smaller center conductor.

is there a fair argument to have all cables rated for VHF performance - 
in case you have to switch cables in a hurry?

Just asking ... I've always just used what I had on-hand, or could 
afford cheap, but am now trying to upgrade it all.

Thanks,

David KD4E


> I agree with you Jim on LMR400. I don't like how when I cut off a 
> piece that has been outside, there is white dry corrosion inside of 
> the jacket.
>
> I got a bunch of 100' pieces from a project that were un-used so I 
> tried it. Always used type N and UHF connectors for the braid though.
>
>
> Thanks
> 73
> Jim W7RY
>
> On 4/8/2021 4:18 PM, Jim Garland wrote:
>> I agree completely with Frank about the virtues of the DXE-PL259CS8U 
>> “Next Generation” UHF PL259 connectors. (Actually, I pretty much 
>> always agree with Frank, whatever the topic.) One thing I especially 
>> like about these connectors, aside from their ease of installation, 
>> strength, and adaptability to all RG8 style coax cables, is how 
>> easily they thread onto a female mating connector without cross 
>> threading. They are about as foolproof as one can imagine, and I find 
>> myself cutting the ends off good jumper cables and replacing their 
>> old style PL259s with these new ones just to avoid future problems. I 
>> think the ability to solder the center pin and only crimp the braid 
>> is a real plus.
>>
>> On a related topic, I’ve stopped using LMR400 and LMR400UF coax 
>> completely for HF work, using instead trusty, old-time RG-213, with 
>> its untinned copper braid. I find the aluminum foil in LMR cables 
>> unneeded and time-consuming to work with, and the source of failures 
>> when mechanically flexed. Soldering to the foil is near impossible, 
>> especially when I find myself belted into a tower!
>> 73,
>> Jim W8ZR
>>
>> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
>>
>> From: donovanf at erols.com
>> Sent: Thursday, April 8, 2021 1:58 PM
>> To: 160
>> Subject: Re: Topband: PL259 type connectors for RG11
>>
>> The DX Engineering DXE-PL259CS8U-12 crimp coax connector
>> with solder center center pin should work perfectly on RG-11.
>>
>>
>> I fold back the RG-11 center conductor about 1/4 inch to provide
>> more surface area for soldering
>>
>>
>> 73
>> Frank
>> W3LPL
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>>
>> From: "Rick Kunath via Topband" <topband at contesting.com>
>> To: "Raymond Benny" <rayn6vr at gmail.com>, "160" <topband at contesting.com>
>> Sent: Thursday, April 8, 2021 7:39:36 PM
>> Subject: Re: Topband: PL259 type connectors for RG11
>>
>> DX Engineering has some that would work I think. It's a crimp on the
>> shield and a soldered center pin.
>>
>> https://www.dxengineering.com/parts/dxe-pl259cs8u-12
>>
>> Not sure if that would work for your application? I suspect that the
>> larger sized center pin needed for 50 ohms would make a crimp to the
>> center pin problematic on 75 ohm cable in a 50- ohm connector.
>>
>> I've never used these connectors before but I might now that I see them.
>>
>> Any cables I make up with PL-259 connectors i have been soldering both
>> the shield and the center pin. On the shield end I strip the jacket and
>> flux and tin the braid. Then I measure for center pin length, and use a
>> tubing cutter to cut the tinned shield to the right dimension, clean the
>> cut edge to remove any bits of metal and screw on the PL-259. After that
>> I remove the tip of a Weller 125 watt soldering gun and after fluxing
>> the 4 solder holes in the PL-259 I bridge the connector across the
>> soldering gun ends where the tip usually goes. The connector becomes the
>> tip, heats up quickly and a quick application of solder and its soldered
>> all around. I let it cool before moving it and then quickly solder the
>> center pin and trim it.
>>
>> I've had good luck doing that over the years (so far).
>>
>> For N connectors it's always a shield crimp but I solder the center 
>> pin on.
>>
>> Rick Kunath, K9AO
>>
>>
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