[Amps] 2K Classic X filament issues

[Pete Smith N4ZR]

Hi Don - It's been quite a few years, but I think that's right.  I 
remember that I also had the problem with solder melting out of the tube 
pins, though that stopped happening once I swapped the springs, and also 
polished the pins and sockets with emery cloth.

73, Pete N4ZR
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On 8/4/2021 8:48 AM, Donald Fox via Amps wrote:
> Good morning Pete, et al:
>
> Pete, when you say clips, I assume you mean the small, removeable U shaped clips that apply pressure to the socket fingers themselves? The sockets in my Henry, are the tried and true Johnson 275s. The main portion of the pins appear to be riveted in, so I don't think in can easily move them around. It's interesting to note that Henry directly grounded the 3-500 grids, unlike Heathkit, Kenwood, etc, who kept the grids slightly above RF ground with small chokes.
>
> As I look at the socket pins, they look clean and what I would call normal. I went ahead, and removed/inserted a tube in each socket 3/4 times, and then left them in, and fired it up. There appears to be progress, as the brightness of both now seems to be almost equal. The ZG tubes with their graphite structure are a bit harder to judge, unlike the original Eimac design where the top of the star shaped anode assembly is open.
>
> Along this journey, I've discovered that the front 3-500 seems to have about 60-70% of air flow that the rear one does. I'd sure like to figure that one out. Given the size (and noise) of the blower, it's kind of surprising that the tubes stay in their sockets, lol.
>
> Henry used those darned Bristol screws to secure the anode coolers to the original Eimac's, and I can't seem to locate one to get them swapped over. I'd love to get them out of there, and go back in with a normal machine screw for ease of service.
>
> Don
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