[CQ-Contest] Installing the W8JI Keying Mod for the FT-1000 (D)

K1ZM at aol.com K1ZM at aol.com
Thu Dec 19 13:13:33 EST 2002

Hello Gang

I am posting this to the reflectors because I think it may help others in 
executing W8JI's keying mod to the FT1000 (D) model.

Briefly, let me comment on this radio versus the MP and the MARK V.

I've taken a look at the BEFORE and AFTER scope traces of the keying in the D 
versus the MP and Mark V - and a "stock" D looks about the way an MP or MARK 
V looks AFTER having installed the W2VJN current production mod.

Given that fact, it was questionnable in my mind whether to tear into my 
radio at all - but then, I took a look at the scope trace of what a W8JI 
MODIFIED "D" keying waveform looks like and the difference is so dramatic, 
that I just decided to go ahead and "suck it up" and go for it....

Now, please note - these notes refer to an FT1000D - and not to the MP or 
Mark V.  Admittedly, modifying those radios requires more work....but 
happily, taking care of things on the D is really quite a simple matter.

As W8JI has noted, the mod goes on the AF board at seven pin connector J3024. 
 The good news is that you do NOT need to take the board out of the radio to 
do the mod.  It can be done by just "floating" the required components above 
the board and then insulating them when done in order to ensure they do not 
short out into nearby components should they shift position over time.

I did as Tom said and cut the wire going to pin 2 on J3024 (this is the 
second pin from the RIGHT)  when viewing this connector with the radio upside 
down with the front panel facing toward my chest.

You want to follow this wire into the harness and cut it so as to leave about 
1.25" of wire remaining on pin 2 of J3024.  Then pull the harness side of the 
wire out carefully to expose a similar length of wire.

I made up a little "jig" of the 2N3904, with the 1.5k 1/2 watt resistor 
connected between the base and the collector of the transistor - and tinned 
the emitter to accept a "tacked on" connection.

The third component required is a 10UF electrolytic at 25v,  the negative 
side of which must go to ground.  Perhaps not the NEAREST point - but 
certainly the EASIEST and most accessible point at which to find chassis 
ground and mount the cap is at a mounting screw for the AF board in the 
middle of the board on the front panel side. This is about 2 inches to the 
LEFT of where the cut wires wind up - and it is also an open area allowing 
plenty of room for the cap to float above the board.

I chose an axial lead cap for this project (largely because its long leads 
were useful to me in spanning the distance involved) and mounted it flush 
onto a solder lug. This I placed under the board mounting screw noted above - 
negative side of the cap almost directly on the lug.  Then I dressed the 
positive axial lead with sleeving and passed it UNDER an intervening wiring 
harness in order to get the plus side of the cap into the general vicinity of 
where the two wires resulting from the cut to pin 2 at J3024 would reach.

Once this has been achieved, it is a straightforward process to tack the 
short wire from pin 2 to the emitter of the transistor and the flying harness 
lead to the collector.  The positive lead of the 10UF cap is most easily 
tacked on last and I should note that it is this lead that suspends the mod 
in mid air above the AF board.  As an added measure to insulate the mod from 
all other components around it, I placed some pvc electrical tape over the 
top and bottom of the mod - just in case.

One other point worthy of mention is that it is a good idea to bend the 
solder lug up at a 45 degree angle right at the screw to ensure no adjacent 
foil traces wind up being jumpered when you tighten the screw to hold the lug 
in place. I also aimed the 10UF cap into an open area on the board - where it 
just floats out of harms way from nearby components.  It is easy to see how 
to do this when looking at the board - and also easy to pass the positive 
axial lead UNDER the harness to the right in order to make the connection to 
the base of the transistor where it meets one side of the 1.5K resistor.

I have now done this mod twice in the last 24 hours - the first time, because 
I was feeling my way, took about 2 hours.  Much of this time was spent just 
getting my radio out of where it is sandwiched into the 160M operating 
positon - and then getting it hooked up again.  The second time doing the mod 
took just about an hour - which includes taking the radio out of its 
operating position and then rehooking up the station again.

The BEST news was hearing K9DX's comments this morning on Topband.  Johjn 
said it sounded great to him.  Hmm - now I only have a few more of these to 
do......but then it's over with.

Hopefully, this amplification of Toms' excellent post on March 9, 2001 is 
useful to anyone out there with an FT1K "D".  It was not hard at all to do 
this mod folks - not hard at all and the results are indeed compelling enough 
to make the effort more than worthwhile.

My thanks to W8JI for taking the lead in getting the word out on this 


K1ZM at aol.com 

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