[Mldxcc] VP6DX - News #25 March 3, 2008

[Ken Anderson]

News #25- 2008 Mar 03
Highlights:
... M/V Braveheart anchors at Mangareva in Rikitea harbor ...
... Radio operators hike the hills ...
... First dinner ashore ...


March 1, Saturday, mid-day: En route from Oeno to Iles Gambier, soon after
cross the Tropic of Capricorn, we circle around Temoe Atoll, southeast of
today's destination. Fishing lines trail off the stern. The atoll itself
displays a classic south Pacific beauty: fringing reef with surf, long coral
islets with coconut palms waving in the breeze, and a peaceful interior
lagoon. Across the lagoon one see the opposite side of the atoll, a
miniature replica of the scene in the foreground. Despite the sonar returns
from fish schools below, our trolling lines remain empty a hour later.
Eventually the aft crew radio to the wheelhouse "all trolling gear on board"
and the on-duty watch increase propeller pitch to speed us towards home.

At 5pm local time the M/V Braveheart crosses the outer barrier reef and
enters the southwest channel of Îles Gambier, a much larger 15 km diameter
atoll with several interior hilly islands. Coral heads and shoals crowd the
route into Rikitea harbor, and a key navigation mark has been missing for
the last decade. Having entered this atoll many times over the past few
years, the crew know the route and have a well-tested trail of marks and
waypoints pegged into the navigation system. By 6:30pm, under a setting sun,
the anchor rattles down into 17m of water, followed by 60m of chain. Neil
hoists the anchor ball on the foremast. The ship settles back in the trade
wind breezes and half hour later, satisfied with the location and swing, the
crew puts the main engine asleep. The French courtesy flag and the yellow
"Q" flag (indicating we have not cleared customs and immigration) fly
amidships. We have arrived at the edge of civilization: cell phone service
is present... and supper is soon ready on the aft deck.

Sunday dawns as yet another beautiful tropical day. By late morning
two-thirds of the radio operators have pulled on boots and are ashore,
hiking up the trails to Mount Duff and Mount Mokoto. At 441m and 425m
elevation, neither peak is quickly obtained. We duck under a dense tangle of
windfallen trees near the start, and pass by an old Polynesian platform of
huge stone blocks, its original purpose unknown. Meadows dressed with small
flowers follow, and then the trail turns upward through a forest of tall
pines. Layers of old pine needles cover the occasionally slippery footing.
At intervals the trail breaks out to reveal a vista of harbor and barrier
reef. After a final steep, slippery segment bordered only by grasses for
handholds, the hikers reach the top. Wow, what a view! Sea at all
directions, the irregular outer reef, multi-colored lagoon waters, and the
small town far below. We can easily pick out the ship's route yesterday
afternoon, and appreciate the narrow gap over an inner bar and tortuous
final approach to Rikitea. A dozen buildings on stilts pepper the bays
around the island: oyster farms for cultivating black pearls. The black
pearl industry forms the heart of Mangareva's economy.

The walk down goes faster, but requires care in foot placement. An hour
later we are hanging over the fence at a local shop, persuading a shopkeeper
in our broken French to sell us a handful of Cokes. He is closed for Sunday,
but amiable enough to a quick transaction. Ah: the first taste of a cold,
fizzy drink in many weeks!

Sunday evening the radio team takes the Braveheart crew out to dinner at a
shoreside restaurant. Food is great, and wine and beer consumption creep
upwards as toasts, speeches, and gifts presented. At 10pm we settled up with
the restaurant and head back to the aft deck of the ship for some more
drinks and story-telling.

Now it's Monday morning. Our passports and carnets went ashore for
processing with customs and immigration, so the Q flag has been struck. Some
operators have gone for a swim at a beach; others are circumnavigating the
island by jeep. Tonight we assemble for a barbecue by the beach.

Tomorrow morning, Tuesday, at 9:30 we take the ferry across the lagoon to
the outer islet with the airstrip, and waiting for the week's flight from
Papeete. We arrive back in Tahiti in mid-afternoon, with enough time for a
shower and dinner. Almost all operators fly overnight from Tahiti to Los
Angeles, arriving Wednesday morning on TN022 or TN002 between 9:45 and
10:30. The team separates for flights to their home countries, ending the
expedition phase of the project.