[Orion] Tip for Replacing A9 CAPs

Ben Antanaitis - WB2RHM wb2rhm at wb2rhm.com
Thu Mar 26 09:34:28 EDT 2015


All,

I always wondered why the C8 - 100uf cap on the +5V supply line only 
had > a > > 6.3WVDC rating..... cost? size???  I used a 25WVDC replacement.

TIP(1) - Since I did not really care about the condition of the 
'original' caps on the A9 board, I did a 'distructive removal' .... 
to make the cleaning of the PC board holes easier, and to also 
prevent overheating the PC board, from trying to remove the old caps 
(which really are just large heat sinks, when trying to unsolder them 
from below).
This is an old 'US Navy electronics repair depot' trick: To remove 
the 'dead/old' electrolytic caps, Without heating, Grip the body of 
the cap with pliers, or fingers, and bend the entire body of the cap 
over to the PC board. In the Electrolytic caps, like the ones on the 
A9 board, the internal connection to the leads is made just inside 
the body of the cap and break off clean.... allowing you to pull the 
entire capacitor body off of the remaining two mounting leads left 
behind, still in the PC board. These single solid wire stubs are 
completely easy to heat, and quicly remove, from the pc board without 
damaging the PC board from excess heating. Don't worry if the solder 
hole is clear of left over solder, that gets taken care of in the next  TIP.

Tip(2) After TIP(1), Heat one side of each PC board hole, with a 
pointed soldering iron tip that is centered on the hole. When the 
solder is melted, use a round (not flat) wooden toothpick, to push 
through all the melted solder from the opposite side of the hole. The 
solder does not stick to the wooden toothpick, and the toothpick 
tapered body displaces all the excess solder from inside the PC board 
hole. So, the PC hole is left open and solder free, and ready for new 
components to be inserted.

73,
Ben - WB2RHM 



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