[RFI] Non-RF sensitive hardwired smoke/fire alarms?

[Dale J.]

Avoid the Kidde carbon monoxide alarm, wired model.  I tried one and the only way I could operate without it going off was to plug the Kidde into an extension cord and wrap the extension cord several turns in a #31 mix choke.  I contacted Kidde and they said there is nothing they can do about it and sent me another wired model, so I have two defunct detectors.  I went to a HD and bought two battery operated models and they run fine, they aren't very expensive.  We had the house re-sided last year and a building code requires monoxide alarms when new siding is installed.      

Buy a battery operated detector and they should be fine, the batteries last quite a long time.  

Dale, k9vuj




On 09, Jul 2014, at 22:25, Kelly Johnson <n6kj.kelly at gmail.com> wrote:

> I would also be interested to hear about others' experience with hardwired
> smoke/fire/CO2 detectors.  Building codes now require new construction to
> have hardwired/interconnected smoke detectors.  I read lots of horror
> stories about hardwired smoke detectors on the web.  All of the ionization
> type smoke detectors and CO2 detectors in my house have no RFI/EMI
> problems, but both of the photoelectric fire detectors chirp when I run
> QRO.  I have to pull out the battery when I run QRO.  That wouldn't be so
> easy with a hardwired detector, so I'd like to know how to avoid problems.
> Will ferrite beads on the leads be sufficient?  Are there brands that are
> known to be less problematic?
> 
> 
> On Mon, Jul 7, 2014 at 10:20 PM, Kelly Johnson <n6kj.kelly at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
>> I am looking for high efficiency lighting (CFL/LED) for a new kitchen, but
>> I don't want an increase in RFI as a result.  Building codes now require at
>> least 50% of the wattage in the kitchen to be from high efficiency (ie.
>> non-incandescent) lighting.  No, I don't want to install high efficiency
>> stuff and then replace it after the inspector leaves.
>> 
>> I read the Oct 2013 QST article on this topic and it basically suggests
>> that most name-brand LED lights with FCC approvals will probably be ok, but
>> it's a bit of a gamble.  They suggest trying various brands, etc.
>> 
>> Since this is a brand new kitchen, I may have more options than just
>> looking for low-RFI bulbs.  All of the electrical will be getting done from
>> scratch.  Are there things others have done in their new construction to
>> use high efficiency lighting without an increase in RFI?  I'm looking for
>> known solutions.  I'm looking for people that have actually installed
>> things that work.
>> 
>> 
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