[TenTec] 450 Ohm feedline

NJ0IP Rick at dj0ip.de
Fri Apr 16 01:47:14 EDT 2004


Tony, again I fully agree with you.  I understand the merrits of twisting
when passing near some metal object - both sides are equally effected, but
I've always twisted mine because it seems (subjectively) that it doesn't
blow around quite as badly in storms.  I only twist the ladder line.  I
don't bother with twisting real openwire because it is not very bothered by
wind.

73
Rick

-----Original Message-----
From: tentec-bounces at contesting.com
[mailto:tentec-bounces at contesting.com]On Behalf Of Tony Martin W4FOA
Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2004 11:12 AM
To: tentec at contesting.com
Cc: k5uj at hotmail.com
Subject: Re: [TenTec] 450 Ohm feedline


Like they say, you can learn something new everyday.  All of these years I
thought we were twisting the "ladderline" to lessen the "whipping action" in
the wind....I guess it is just accidental but I've been twisting my
ladderline all these years and and had convinced myself that the ladderline
was relatively stable even during fairly brisk winds, whereas before I
started this, the line would blow around like a "whip"....thanks for the
info.
Tony, W4FOA

----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Atkinson, K5UJ" <k5uj at hotmail.com>
To: <tentec at contesting.com>
Cc: <k5uj at hotmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2004 11:37 AM
Subject: [TenTec] 450 Ohm feedline


> The purpose of twisting the line is not to reduce noise pickup and
> radiation, it is to help keep the line balanced.
>
> I'd forget about using any kind of wood pane.  Go with plexiglass.  Just
> about any glass place will cut a plexiglass pane for you if you give them
> the measurements.   Go to Radio Shack and get a pair of banana plug
> sockets/lugs and a pair of banana plugs.  Drill two holes thru the
> plexiglass the width of the banana plug socket lug shafts and spaced the
> width of the feedline.  Install them on the glass, bash out the old pane*
> (the fun part) and put in the plexiglass one, solder the ladder line on
the
> inside to the lugs, solder the ouside end to the plugs.  Now you have a
feed
> through and quick disconnect.  Mine handles 1200 watts no problem.   Get a
> second pane made at the same time so if you ever move, you will be able to
> put a normal pane in the window.
>
> Across the ground outside I have had good experience supporting the feed
> with pvc pipes stuck in the ground.  And finally, as I've said before, I'd
> use a balanced feedline tuner such as the one from Palstar, just inside
your
> window, and run coax from that to your shack.  this works unless you qsy a
> lot, for that I'd consider a remote controlled tuner from John Bliss (Air
> and Water King--try a google search).   This is if you want to run legal
> limit.  For the Argo, you can probably just run the ladder line to an
> unbalanced tuner like the 238B at your operating position and that will
work
> fine.
>
> Rob Atkinson
> K5UJ
>
> *The way to safely bash out a pane is to tape an X across the pane with
> masking tape or duct tape, and smack the middle of the X with the handle
end
> of a screwdriver on the X and hammering it with a hammer on the other end.
> Rubber mallet probably okay in lieu of the screwdriver/hammer.
> The pane collapses outward but is held by the tape and the amount of glass
> falling is minimized.  Of course if you aren't in a hurry (I always am)
and
> don't want to have fun you can go around it chipping out the plaster : )
>
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