[TenTec] Orion II Power Connector Replacement

[Rod Greene]

All, Please excuse the formatting - If anyone wants a cleaned up version, let me know and I'll create it in MS Word or .pdf if you want and send it to you.

73, Rod/w7zrc


      From: Rod Greene via TenTec <tentec at contesting.com>
 To: Billy Cox <aa4nu at comcast.net>; Discussion of Ten-Tec Equipment <tentec at contesting.com> 
Cc: Rod Greene <w7zrc at yahoo.com>
 Sent: Thursday, March 9, 2017 7:55 AM
 Subject: Re: [TenTec] Orion II Power Connector Replacement
   
Good Morning Billy!
I'll send the picture of the back of the rig with the power pole installed. It looks like the other pictures that folks sent to me. I didn't do a step by step install picture sequence. (check the wiki) What I did was just take pictures of where the connectors were and how the parts were installed that I had to remove to get to the solder pads on the board for the connector. Here's a simple run-down of what I did:
1. Remove screws from top and bottom covers of rig. - Keep track of where all the various types of screws come from as you disassemble.
2. Remove screws from the back panel of the rig 
3. Carefully pull the back panel and interior panel away from the rig chassis. You may have to unplug some connectors. Here's where you take pics.    I didn't remove the back from the chassis much of a distance. Just a few inches.4. Unsolder and remove the big diode that's across the power input.5. Unsolder the end of the RF choke that's close to the end of the diode. Note the alignment. 
6. Unsolder and remove the old power connector.7. Make sure all the solder pads have the solder cleaned away. I had to use a small drill bit to get the pad holes cleaned and large enough for 12 ga wire. If you do this, be very careful to keep small cuttings cleaned away and not to tear the pads. 
8. Make up the power poles with approx an inch of wire length out of their back. I used 12 ga solid wire. 
9. Loosely install the power poles and new retaining plate on the back panel. I used a #6 self taping metal screw but predrilled for it.10. The two 12 ga pigtails go thru the back panel and thru the solder pads used by the old connector.11. The power poles will be just the right length to go between the back panel and the interior panel.12. I didn't do anything with the fuse. I think it will continue to work okay.13. Holding the back panel and interior panel together put a couple of screws back in the stand-offs to hold them together correctly. 
14. Solder the pigtails of the power poles in the solder pads. Cut of the ends of the wire pigtails where they extend past the pads on the interior panel.15. Reinstall (solder) the diode (alignment noted) and end of the RF choke.16. Check alignment of panels, power pole chassis, etc.17. One caution - there's a big long connector that mates between the back interior panel and the main chassis. Make sure you carefully align and push this together as you reassemble the back panel, interior panel to the chassis. It's located in the middle and runs vertically. 
18. One note on the retaining plate for the power poles - I used just one side as there are two of the plates in the package if you order them (from Powerwerx - I think I actually bought them from Amazon). I made the hole in the mounting plate a little larger so the plate and power poles could be aligned correctly. With the plate and the 12 ga wires soldered, the assembly is quite solid and should hold very well to the chassis. 
19. Put all the screws back in place. Remember - keep track of where they go when you disassemble and it won't be a problem now. -Ha- ask me how I know that (grin).20. As always, check your work as you go and make sure there are no shorts, solder bridges, etc. etc. You're doing this at your own risk, but it shouldn't be too hard, just a little time consuming. I also take notes with plug numbers indicated to go along with the pictures, so I know how to plug everything back in.
That should do it and hopefully I haven't left anything out. Hope it helps - 73, Rod/w7zrc