Topband: Soldering radials?

[Drew Vonada-Smith]

Matt,

MAPP gas and a small torch doesn't pose much of a threat to pure copper.  I've never had an issue, and I am not particularly skilled.

A few asked me about sources for Stay-Silv 15.  Here is one example link from Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/HARRIS-STAY-SILV-PHOS-COPPER-SILVER-BRAZING/dp/B0089EXHK4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1476307743&sr=8-1&keywords=harris+stay-silv+15

Those 7 sticks are enough to cross a lot of radials.  I might have used 2/3 of that for an entire four square with ground level radials.  If you want to use flux, helpful but not critical, the appropriate one is the Stay-Silv white flux.

Something like this works just fine for a torch.  It is also big enough for larger copper strap, braid, ground rods, etc.  Very useful.  http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-TS4000KC-Trigger-Start-Torch-Kit-TS4000KC/203368730

73,
Drew K3PA
------------------------------

Message: 10
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2016 14:56:10 -0500
From: Matt Murphy <matt at nq6n.com>
To: Drew Vonada-Smith <drew at whisperingwoods.org>
Cc: "topband at contesting.com" <topband at contesting.com>
Subject: Re: Topband: Soldering radials?
Message-ID:
	<CANth69jZ_yibkJMVR3qe_pAzAd+FXLMrUmFrRqC4TjeMxh6zxw at mail.gmail.com>
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Is there any danger of damaging stranded copper wire by overheating it with
a torch when soldering or brazing?

73,
Matt NQ6N

On Wed, Oct 12, 2016 at 2:41 PM, Drew Vonada-Smith <drew at whisperingwoods.org
> wrote:

> Radials are a lot of work to put in, and the expense of wire is
> significant.  I can't see any justification for not joining them the best
> way available.  IMHO, silver brazing.
>
>
> I use and recommend Sta-Silv 15 (15% Ag, 80%Cu, 5% P brazing stick) and a
> simple MAPP gas torch.  Propane is not quite hot enough to work well.
> Liquidus is 1475F.  Flux didn't seem necessary, but you could use white
> brazing flux.  Sure, I spent $25 in solder over about 5 verticals, but of
> what significance is that compared to the rest of the effort, to insure a
> lasting joint?
>
>
> Sta-Silv 5 is probably fine also, with a 1500F liquidus,  But I prefer the
> characteristics of the 15%.  Very easy to work with.
>
>
> 73,
> Drew K3PA
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2016 08:52:40 -0700
> From: "Richard (Rick) Karlquist" <richard at karlquist.com>
> To: "Topband at contesting.com" <Topband at contesting.com>
> Subject: Topband: Soldering radials?
> Message-ID: <c04783d1-8f96-c17c-5921-fb6648e8587e at karlquist.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
>
> I'd like to get the latest thinking from the group
> on soldering radials.  What I currently thinking
> is as follows:
>
> SOLDER SELECTION:
>
> 1.  Tin lead doesn't hold up in the weather.
>
> 2.  "Stay Brite" 3% silver solder (97% tin,
> no lead) is known to work well, but is expensive,
> and has a considerably higher melting point
> than 63/37.
>
> 3.  Lead free plumber's solder obviously works
> in water pipes, but does it hold up outdoors
> in the rain?  What is the melting point?
>
> FLUX SELECTION:
>
> 1.  Pure rosin.  Hardest to work with, but minimum
> corrosion issues.
>
> 2.  Activated rosin.  Easier to work with.  What
> corrosion issues are there?
>
> 3.  Acid core plumber's flux.  Very easy to work
> with, very corrosive.  Does this hold up in the
> rain, etc?
>
> (I remember the dire warnings that Heathkit manuals
> had about not using acid core solder, but I
> guess that doesn't apply to radials.)
>
> CRIMPING?
>
> Has anyone tried crimping as an alternative to solder?
>
> Rick
> N6RK
>
>
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