[TowerTalk] rewiring... SUMMARY [LONG]
Fred Hopengarten
k1vr@juno.com
Tue, 11 Apr 2000 22:32:41 -0400
On Mon, 10 Apr 2000 14:39:29 -0700 Jeff Stai KQ6VQ <jstai@home.com>
writes:
>
>
> So: imagine that you are having your house completely rewired
> from scratch.
> Replies direct to me will be summarized to the list.
K1VR: No need. This is an FAQ.
Fred Hopengarten K1VR
hopengarten@post.harvard.edu
Six Willarch Road * Lincoln, MA 01773-5105
781/259-0088 *eFax 419/858-2421
FAQ: How to Build A Ham Shack
A Summary by Fred Hopengarten K1VR
From: "John D. Peters" <k1er@gte.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Station design resources
Paul Walker wrote:
> I am in the process of purchasing a piece of property and building a
house. Before I even get to constructing a tower - which was the whole
point of buying land (my wife thinks it was to build a house), I am
concerned mostly about a good station design. The aforementioned wife
has already determined the station will be located in the basement.
> What resources are available for planning and laying out a station?
Specifically:
>
> 1) What power requirements should you plan for.
> 2) Constructing a good ground.
> 3) Station egress for the coax.
> 4) Managing the wiring octopus.
> 5) Station proximity as it relates to electrical service
location,
> phone junction box and network wiring (yes, I'm a geek, I
work with
> networks and my house is going to have one)
> 6) etcetera ....
>
> I am sure there are many other things that I have not even considered.
Anyway pointers to resources that may have this kind of information would
be helpful.
> Paul, N9PW
\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\
First, you should regain control. Remind her that there are millions of
women, only one DXCC. It's a lot easier to find a better wife than a
better hobby!
The basement is a poor location for the station. It's frequently damp
which is not good for the equipment.
I have had good success with both a ground floor room (bed room or den)
sharing a wall with the garage or a 2nd floor bedroom. If you share a
wall with the garage it's easy access to the power distribution system.
If the house has a crawl space you have the choice of cable through the
floor, crawl space, into PVC conduit to the tower. Or through the wall,
around the garage, to the PVC conduit to the tower.
>From a 2nd floor bedroom, I ran conduit with the power lines against the
back of the house, through the back wall, to carry the 240VAC to the
linear and 120VAC to the rest of the station. I ran the cables to the
antenna up through the ceiling, across the attic, out a soffit vent, and
strung from a steel cable like the power and telephone lines from tree to
tree to the tower some 300 ft from the house. (Hardline has no loss,
.1dB/100 ft at 1,000 MHx is no loss.)
Ground the antenna system to keep lightning outside (lots of discussion
recently, I hope you read the posts.) Buy and read the PolyPhaser book on
lightning protection. Do NOT ground the station and provide a path to
ground through the gear. Connect the cabinets together so they are at a
common potential.
Provide the station with it's own circuit breaker box. All single plase.
240VAC 30 Amp, lots of 120VAC 20 Amp outlets. Provide 120VAC 30 Amp to
the hoist motor for your tower.
If you plan to bury the cables to the tower, bury PVC pipe, perhaps 4
inch, bring the end up vertical to a 180 elbow. So the wires go UP into
the PVC, through it to the tower, and come out of the elbow going down so
you keep water out of the buried PVC. Keep a nylon line in the PVC, long
enough so you can pull future cables, with the end of the line still
accessible from both ends. Keep critters out with either hardware cloth
or stuff something next to the cables at the ends of the PVC. Hire an
electrician to run your power lines.
Egress for cables? Pull back a side of the rug, cut a hole in the floor,
or cut a 3 x 3 inch hole in the ceiling, or through the wall (toward the
garage). Mount a utility box over the hole in the wall. For the ceiling
hole, there are wall patches that make it invisible when you're done with
the hole. (Screen mesh with plaster in the center, glue on one side,
that you stick of the hole, spackle and paint and no one knows a hole was
ever there.) I've built, bought, used, and sold LOTS of houses. It's
easy to remove all traces (except the 40,000 lb concrete tower base) when
you're ready to sell.
The reason to buy or build a house is for YOU to enjoy Ham Radio. The
wife can have a flower garden. Never let her forget the priority!!! Tell
her to get a license if she doesn't comprehend such a serious matter. If
she threatens to leave, YOU get the lawyer and replace her with a better
looking one that understands you better. And don't let her forget that
you're willing to do just that.
John K1ER (With licensed XYL and kids)
\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\
From: k4sb@avana.net
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 97
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Station design resources
You should thank your luck starts for your wife's assistance in sending
you to the basement. Some excellent ideas have already been put forward.
I did the same thing some 20 years ago, and designed a house around the
hamshack.
Still live here, BUT
Be sure you have adequate 220 input to the CB panel. Mine is 400 amp, and
from there, I take a 150 amp line off to the workshop wall (which is the
other side of the hamshack). Make this feed as short as possible. Have
things like the lights, etc. powered from the house supply.
If you use an underground method of getting the coax, ect out of the
hamshack, BE SURE the pipe is at least 6" diameter. AND, if trees or
layout of the property are such that you might want to use some at the
other end of the house from the hamshack, have another 6" pipe put it. DO
HAVE A DOUBLE LENGTH OF COATED STEEL CABLE ( 1/8" is fine ) INSTALLED IN
ALL PIPES BEFORE THEY ARE COVERED...unless you can train a gerble to run
through the pipe with your coax. DO NOT LET THOSE SUCKERS USE A 90 DEGREE
ELBOW ANYWHERE IN THE PIPES!!!
Start down with a 45 degree slant and come up with the same. (30 degrees
is even better).
My shack is 14x12. It's definitely too small. My workshop is 14x22. It is
also too small. Something like 14x18 for the shack and 20x20 for the
workshop sounds good.
Have a outside entrance from the basement. If you are going to have a
security system, have it prewired and in small conduit!!!!!!! I still set
off the fire alarm when I use 160. BTW, on the common wall between my
garage and the interior of the house, I put in 2 seperate "spider webs"
on the entire wall. (one is a spare ) If anyone ever tries to enter this
place home from the garage, and you could do it with your fist
practically, they're dead meat! BTW again, I installed a master switch to
the garage door opener motor which disables the motor. Just break the
HOT side of the line and mount a switch plate on the INSIDE of the
entrance door. I did this AFTER the house was built...too many stray
signals kept opening the garage door. Incidentally, I had 2 "phone
boxes" mounted on the outside of the house.One on each end. The real one
is the one furtherest from the phone line pole. (Of course, it's buried
also.) In the dummy, (which has a phone line coming out of the ground
just like the real one) directly on the inside wall is a small box
connected with the dummy line in series with the security system. (Be
sure the underground end of the dummy is shorted and well protected from
moisture, etc. If anyone ever cuts the dummy line, (which is in plain
sight - the real one is disguised) well, there goes the loud noise and a
call to the local gestapo. The real line also has a small box right at
the entrance, but on the inside basement wall, which has a small relay
held closed by the phone line voltage. If the real line is cut, obviously
the system can't call, but the loud noise starts immediately.
If at all possible, have an entrance to the basement similar to a garage
door entrance, make it into a clear area. Make the door one of those
sliding metal types. You'd be surprised how often you want to bring LARGE
stuff inside. Make SURE you can drive through this door.
Have all phone lines placed in small conduit, all connected, and all
grounded to a good outside ground.
Do have multiple ground rods in the entire basement, all tied together,
and brought to a common point. It also is not a bad idea to spread
"galvanized hog" wire over the entire basement floor before it is poured,
and of course, connect all the ground wires to it by soldering, and then
connect all of that to your outside ground.
USE UNDERGROUND WIRING FROM THE POWER SOURCE TO YOUR HOUSE!!!! Make sure
the transformer box is grounded at all 4 corners.
Edward W. Sleight k4sb@avana.net Date: 4/15/97
\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\
From: rhummel@monad.net (Rob Hummel)
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997
Subject: [CQ-Contest] Station design resources
My new house had the following criteria designed into the hamshack.
1. In the basement, both for better grounding and to prevent family
rebellion during CONTESTS.
2. Seperate entrance to the hamshack (walk-out basement). This allows
groups of wandering CONTEST operators to enter and exit without spooking
the XYL in her nightgown at 0300 local. (Also prevents scraggly-looking
ops from catching lead from overprotective XYL.)
3. Small room next to operating position containing the following: sink,
running water, microwave oven, coffee machine, toilet. See #2 for reason.
4. Separate breaker box with transfer switch and generator hookup.
(NOTHING interrupts the CONTEST.)
5. Separate zone comming off the FHW system -- to keep toes cozy during
winter nights.
6. Plenty of open wall space to hang plaques and certificates.
Rob Hummel (WS1A) <rhummel@monad.net>
\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\
From: Dan Szymanski <dszymans@erols.com>
Date: Fri, 18 Apr 1997 05:42:00 -0700
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Florescent Tube Interference.
Balz wrote:
>
> Florescent Tubes and their associated Interference are in 137%
of
> all rooms here.
>
> I'm looking for your Hints, Kinks and experience on how to
eliminate
> or at least significantly attenuate the noise.
>
> Replacement by incandescent fixture is probably the most
effective
> but least practical solution.
>
> I will summarize Hints / Experiences received direct to:
> WC3L / YB9 <NCBAET@Dili.nusantara.net.id
>
> Thanks and 73,
>
> John Balz
> WC3L / YB9
> East Timor
I remember years ago while on active duty (US Navy) as a Communications
Technician problems with florescent light fixtures. In fact if my memory
serves me correct,
because of the fact they did create levels of RF interference, they were
not permitted in operational areas used by Naval Security Group
Activities. Over some time floresent devices were installed but they
were not the typical $9.00 shop devices you find at the local Home Depot
or Builders Square.
The devices have the following mechinical considerations.
All metal construction.
Totally enclosed wrap around enclosures.
The diffuser panel fits tightly around bottom of fixture, and was
typically a hinged unit.
Early units in fact had diffuser panels with metal wires embedded in the
panels.
The AC input connection was through a internally mounted EMI/RFI AC
filter. This filter was internal to the fixture. All wiring to the device
we had to provide when we installed had to be done in EMT conduit.
If a flexible AC power connection had to be used then we used material
such as Greenfield or Liquid Tight Flex conduit to the fixture.
Twelve years ago, when I set up my radio operating station in my house I
installed fixtures mounted in the suspension grid of the ceiling. I
selected light units that were again all metal 100% wrap around
enclosures and simply added a CORCOM EMI/RFI AC filter mounted in each of
the fixtures. I have not experienced any RFI problems.
K3SKE Dan Szymanski Frederick, MD Potomac Valley Radio Club
\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\
From: k0hb@JUNO.COM (Hans Brakob)
Date: Sun, 1 Mar 1998 22:50:15 -0600
Subject: Re: [CQ-Contest] What to build in a new shack???
>Am getting ready to build a new house and am looking for
>ideas to include in the ham shack.
>
>The proposed hamshack room is 13X12, with a large walk in closet.
>An outside door, no windows on the West wall to cause glare
>on computer monitors. Windows will be on the north wall.
>
>Of course plenty of 220V and 20amp 115v outlets are in the plans.
>
>What else do I need to "build in"???? I only want to do this once.
>
>Station will mainly be used for SO2R and possibly some M/S efforts.
>
>Am presently planning on having a 10' table set out from the wall
>so I can get to the back of all the equipment. ideas???
>
>Jeff K4JNY
>jnyeager@southern.edu
The best "purpose-built" ham shack I have ever seen is that
of Bill Tynan, W3XO. Bill may not be well known to HF
contesters, but his call will ring a bell among VHF folks
as the holder of 6-meter DXCC #1, President of AMSAT,
and a serious contender in VHF contesting. This is a
SERIOUS radio room!
His floorplan uses the walk-in closet idea to perfection. The closet is
behind the "long" wall in his shack, and is quite wide -- I'm guessing 6
feet, and as deep as the ham shack is "wide".
The common wall between the ham shack and the closet is
actually a continuous run of shelves, and Bill's equipment sits on these
shelves (actually *in* the closet) with their front-panels extending
through paneling, into the "ham shack".
The paneling is in horizontal segments, equal in "height" to the
intershelf spacing, so that new equipment can ba accomodated without
replacing a full 4x8 sheet of panel.
On the ham-shack side of the wall, at desktop height, is a nice
full-length piece of counter top, as found in kitchens.
Back-panel (servicing and interconnection) work is a breeze.
Just walk into the closet, and the full "backside" of the complete
station is exposed to access, easy to keep organized, and hidden from
those "un-converted" XYL-types who object to masses of cables.
Hans, K0HB
\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\
From: "Kevin Bier, K7VI" <bier@teleport.com>
Date: Mon, 02 Mar 1998
Subject: Re: [CQ-Contest] What to build in a new shack???
I did good with 115 and 220V in our new house but forgot to put in access
for grounding and cabling. Don't forget the holes/access plates for
rotor cabling, coax and ground wire/straps.
I'm going to be adding a coax relay to keep coax clutter down. Also
going to add a shelf or two above the rigs for amps and power supplies.
I've always liked the big sheet of glass/plexiglass on the table top to
keep import handy reference stuff under.
We added a switch panel to power some of the circuits in the house in the
event of power failure. Something to consider. Cost around $600 to have
it done.
Kevin K7VI Hockinson, WA mailto:bier@teleport.com
\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\
From: "Jim White, K4OJ" <k4oj@ij.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Mar 1998
Subject: Re: [CQ-Contest] What to build in a new shack???
For the if we only knew when category....
Imagine this....
IF
the wall about to constructed for your shack is like those here in South
Florida (concrete block)
AND IF
you have the foresight to plan ahead
AND IF
there is a window which you can look out to see the relative position of
the Sun as you decide when to get up to the higher bands or drop down for
those gray line mults...
AND YOU DO IT NOW
you could, instead of having one or two of those concrete blocks under
the window in the shack be blocks, have them be a thick of sheet brass or
copper, which is grouted into the surrounding blocks. Since the area
under your window is not load bearing this is an ideal location for such
a
concoction.
AND IF YOU ARE SERIOUS YOU SHOULD
Have a sheet metal outfit prepare a piece with a bunch of holes drilled
in it that are the right size to accommodate those barrel connectors with
the two nuts on them that you see in the catalogues and in the flea
markets,
and have them drill several smaller holes - say 1/4", which will serve as
homes for bolts/studs which you can use as grounding points - on the
outside to go to grounding stakes...on the inside for your shack
grounding
bus....now....
If you have the builder set this panel and wait till after the mortar is
set and the house is painted you have waited a little too long.....put in
your connectors in the plate once the plate has "set up" and then cover
the ends of them and the "studs" with black tape or something so that the
installation can be painted along with the house and you will have
minimal visual impact other than other hams saying gawd I wish my shack
had that!
To me this would be ideal....imagine it....your PL259 from the antenna
screws into the outside of the house, and then on the cozy inside of the
house you can connect your Jumper with its own PL259 which in turn can go
to a coax switch or whatever...
You can fabricate PL259's which are shorted to plug into unused antennas
which will take the center conductor to ground when inserted!
This is too easy...
BUT ONLY IF YOU DO IT WHEN THE WALL IS IN THE PLANNING STAGE!
just my HO
k4oj@ij.net
\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\
From: Eric Rosenberg <wd3q@erols.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998
Subject: [TowerTalk] Advice for New Shack
On my list already...
master kill switch for AC power
quad boxes instead of duplex ones for the AC service
telephone and CATV
no fluorescent lights
decent amount of windows to see the outside world
room enough to keep the operating table away from the wall
Eric W3DQ Washington, DC wd3q@erols.com
\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\
From: "Brian Smithson" <brian_smithson@vds.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 19:05:29 -0500
Subject: [TowerTalk] Station layout
I'm putting an addition on my house, and I've got a 20x14 room
planned for my office and shack. I'm looking for some tips and
ideas to incorporate 'while the walls are open' so to speak, or
even before the planning ink is dry.
Here's what I have in mind so far:
A hallway from the rest of the house will end in a door to the
office/shack. I'm going to 'shorten' the room by about 4' so I can
have a wiring closet on one end of the room just before you go
in. It will have its own door off the hallway. In the room I plan to
have my networking gear and storage. I will also have a 100A
breaker box to service the office and the guestroom (that's what
the XYL gets out of the deal:). There will also be a 220 outlet in
case I really get crazy and go for an amp someday.
The whole addition is 28' wide with the other side being the
guestroom. The addition itself is off the side of the house, and
I plan to insulate the wall between the shack and the guestroom
for sound.
The radio bench/desk will be up against the wall where the
wiring closet will be. I'm planning some sort of 'pass thru' so I
can get to the back of the radios from inside the wiring closet.
There will be outlets sprinkled about, as well as phone and
100baseT jacks througout the room.
All the cabling from the outside will come up underneath the
house into the crawlspace via buried PVC running out to the
tower about 120' away. My grounding bulkheads will be under
the house and the cables will then run into the house through a
hole in the floor of the wiring closet. They will then run thru the
'pass-thru' to the gear.
Brian N8WRL
\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\
From: "W9SN" <nw9g@netusa1.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 14:20:41 -0500
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Running coax through a brick wall
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Wilson <rwilson@hiwaay.net>
Date: Wednesday, December 09, 1998 12:41 PM
>I have just about finished up my 75 ft. 25G tower and loaded it with
mostly
>VHF and UHF antennas. My problem now is getting all of this coax into
the
>house and to the shack area. Since I will have maybe up to ten RG8 size
or
>larger coax cables I will need a fairly good size hole. I plan to go
>through a brick wall about 8 ft off the ground. This will get me into
the
>basement area just above the concrete block inner wall. The outside
brick
>wall is about 28 ft. high. Is it usually safe to remove a brick or cut
out
>half a brick to pass these cables? Should I replace the removed brick
with
>some sort of steel insert to support the load but still pass the cables.
> The only other choice I have is to go through a window which I hope I
>don't have to use. Bob WA4ZZW
The best way is drill a hole and sleeve it. Since I run gas line for a
living, I do this all the time. I have a large Bosch drill that does the
job. You can rent these at certain places for a minimal cost. Measure
the diameter of the group of cables to see what size you need, then go to
the local plumbing outlet to get some pvc pipe that will take them. Once
installed, seal around the outside and the inside of the pipe with the
cables in there. I use duct putty so that I can remove it later for
adding another coax or two. By the way, I think that Bosch has bits for
concrete up to 2" which will take 1 1/4" pvc pipe. Steve Narducci W9SN
\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\
From: JD Delancy <k1zat@dsport.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 15:24:41 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Running coax through a brick wall
I finished up a 100 foot of Rohn 25 with its base about 80 feet from the
house. To get them into the basement, I used a concrete saw and hammer
to make a 3 inch hole. Then I took a piece of hard PVC, fitted it into
the hole. I then filled the space around the pvc between the other wall
with some compressed insulating-foam-in-a-can (forget what its actually
called, carpenters uses it a lot). Finally I cemented (or grouted)
around the PVC on both sides of the wall. To keep rain out, I used a 45
degree elbow pointed down on the outside. I'm about half full in it with
eight 1/2inch and one 3/4 inch hardline, two RG-8's and a couple of RG-58
runs. XYL approved.
jd
\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\
From: "Mike McCarthy, W1NR" <w1nr@eecorp.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 19:35:36 -0500
Subject: Re: Circuits, plugs and breakers: RE: [YCCC] Circuit Breaker
Problem
220V 20A plugs are standard on most commercially made linears. My 4-1000
has a 30A twist lock socket and plug but may be overkill.
Do what I did...Put 2 separate 20A 115V circuits to alternating double
wide
boxes on each stud at the rear of where the operating bench will be.
Have them
placed 38" from the floor so they are at eye level when sitting at the
operating
position. Have 2 feeds of 10-3 with ground to two single boxes also
behind the
bench. The electrician can put regular 20A plugs or twist locks
(expensive).
Since you have run #10 cable, you can change them to 30A plugs and
breakers if
needed later on. 220V at 20A is 4400 Watts of available power. A stock
SB-220
draws 10-12 Amps at full output (<2500 watts). Running 10-3 rather than
10-2
will also allow for separate ground and neutral (which I prefer whenever
possible for any equipment like linears with 110V stuff inside).
GFI (Ground Fault Interrupter) is required in unfinished basements and
garages for 115V circuits. GFI has always given me problems with RF
tripping them. Since I finished my basement, I did not have to put in
GFI's. I did need them in the Garage.
Don't forget a ground bus. A length of #4 stranded to the nearest
water pipe
running across the back of the operating bench. All equipment should be
attached to it with a SHORT run of wire or braid.
W1NR
ted@null.net wrote:
> I'm having an electrician put wiring into the new shack soon. What do I
want??
> I want to be able to run a two radio setup, so I need two sockets in
the wall for 220/240Volts.
>
> Is 30 Amps per OK or do I want more or less. And breakers? Never heard
of GFI.
>
> And what type of plugs do most of you use - there seem to be all types
- got a dryer plug on the end of the amp now. -- Ted KR1G
>
> ---- you wrote:
> >
> > GFI breakers can be tripped by RF - I have one that
> > does it all the time - the fix is to add properly rated
> > bypass capacitors across them.
> >
> > I would try replacing the breaker.
> > If it is not feeding a bathroom/kitchen then there is no
> > real need for a GFI breaker. Of coarse, being that the circuit is
> > in the basement, there should not be much RF to cause problems,
> > so I would try a new GFI breaker first. -- John, K1AE
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > Behalf Of Scott Babb
> > > Sent: Sunday, December 13, 1998 3:35 PM
> > > Subject: [YCCC] Circuit Breaker Problem
> > >
> > > My basement shack runs of a single 20 amp GFI circuit
> > > breaker (with separate 240V for the amp.) This morning,
> > > the breaker was tripped. I disconnected everything
> > > from the circuit and reset the breaker. It tripped
> > > immediately. I just opened up the breaker box and
> > > checked all three connections to the GFI breaker. It
> > > still pops immediately upon reset. I disconnected the
> > > hot line out from the breaker and it still trips.
> > >
> > > Obviously, the breaker thinks there is a ground fault
> > > somewhere, even though there is nothing connected to
> > > the breaker and no voltage (or resistance) shown between
> > > the neutral and ground lines. My guess is that the GFI
> > > breaker has lost its mind and needs to be replaced.
> > >
> > > Has anyone seen any problems with RFI hosing a GFI breaker?
> > > I'm debating on whether I should pick up another GFI or
> > > just go with a standard breaker. I originally installed
> > > the GFI because the circuit is in the basement, with some
> > > tiny possibility that the floor might be wet.
> > >
> > > Suggestions? de KE1KD, Scott
\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\
From: N3SL@aol.com
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 20:49:25 EST
Subject: Re: HL: copper
In a message dated 3/24/99 7:24:08 PM Central Standard Time,
dick@libelle.com
writes:
> >Any body know a source of the
> >2 or 3 inch wide copper ribbon for grounding purposes, i.e, 2nd floor
> >ham shack? Dick W5AA
>
> Polyphaser makes it in 1.5, 3 and 6-inch widths. Amateur Electronic
> Supply carries it and it is listed in their catalog.
>
> Davis RF and Champion Radio Products also carry it. Dick
>
> PS: It isn't cheap.
>
Try David Klein at Metal and Cable Corp, Twinsburg, Ohio - 330-425-8455.
Email is "david@metal-cable.com" I met him last year at Dayton where he
was
selling 2" strap (sorry, don't remember the thickness, but recall it's
over
0.01"). At Dayton, he was selling 50' rolls for $45 - the cheapest I've
seen.
Give him a shout. Don't bother with Polyphaser, unless you have money to
burn. -- Steve, N3SL
\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\
From: "Mark ." <n1lo@hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 08:55:43 EST
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] entrance panels for grounding
Jim Clark asked:
<< snip.. If I have a 2nd floor shack, should I use a Polyphaser entrance
panel, or ground the antenna at ground level with a suppressor, and run
coax
up into the shack? Hate to drill all those holes in the house. Same
applies when I start using rotator cable. Your thoughts? >>
Hi Jim, good questions.
There are a lot of approaches out there. I recently went through lots of
posts to try to decide what to do. I also have a 2nd story shack.
I made what I call a 'gounding switchboard.' The approach I adopted is
simplisistic, and effective, based on the following goals:
1) Disconnection of all conductors between tower and shack when not
operating.
2) Shunting all conductors from the tower to a low impedance ground when
not
operating.
3) Allowing varied rig/antenna connections
4) Isolation of ham shack gear from ground when not operating.
5) Do not operate during threatening weather
6) Develop a habit of always disconnecting after operating.
7) Don't spend too much money!
8) Have fun building something that really works!
Here is the scheme, in summary:
1)Install a conductive panel in a window
2) Tie in the panel to the electrical service and tower ground system
(single point) with a low impedance conductor, such as copper pipe or
wide
strap.
3) Connectorize and label all conductors and feedlines coming into the
shack.
4) Make shorting plugs that mate with the connectors and shunt all
connectors to the panel. They should be quick "push-on" types so it will
be
easy enough that you will actually *use* them! :~)
5) Make choke coils in the conductors between the tower and shack.
OK, for those interested and still reading, more detail on my specific
plan:
Like you, I did not savor drilling through a wall. I built an insert for
one
of the shack windows. It consists of a rectangular, 1/8" thick aluminum
plate (try 5052-H32 soft temper, easy to drill, from an *old* road sign
<uhh- *sheepish grin*>), framed with pressure treated lumber. I rabbetd
the
edges of the frame with a router to fit the contours of the sill and the
sliding operator such that the insert is captured and secured when the
window is closed on it. I added some self-stick weatherstripping "V" tape
to
complete the seal.
I installed Amphenol UHF female bulkhead connectors in the plate for each
coaxial cable desired, plus spares.
For each wire antenna fed with open wire line, I installed two bulkhead
connectors and used shielded parallel lines from two conductors of RG-58
(see ARRL antenna handbook). If you like remote baluns, you can get by
with
a single connector and one coax.
For the rotor, I bought 8-pin trailer connectors. I built a clip that
retains the tower side connector in a cutout in the panel.
I bought a slew of PL-259 quick 'push-on' adaptors. To make the shorting
plugs, solder a "L"-shaped pieces of 12 gauge copper wire into the center
socket of the female UHF side of the adaptor, with the short leg soldered
to
the edge adjacent threaded part. Don't let the short leg jut out past the
threads. Then, using a vise, I pressed a short piece of 1/2" PVC over the
threads on the female side, making a short, insulating handle. Then I
filled
the pvc cavity with hot melt glue.
I made a shorting plug for the rotor cable using a mating connector. I
soldered all the wires from the pins (wires are already molded into the
connector) into one large copper cable lug and bolted the lug to the
panel.
When you mate the connectors, all lines are shunted to the panel.
Next, I made jumpers of RG-8X for every single antenna connection for all
of
my rigs and put push-on adaptors on the panel ends. I made a jumper for
the
rotor using the mating connector for the one in the panel. I Labeled and
color-coded all ends.
I put a little silicone grease on the quick disconnects and connector
pins. One cheap source is Dielectric grease at Advanced Auto Parts.
I grounded my panel using 3/4 copper water pipe down to ground for its
large, smooth surface area. I put little stub legs in it using "T"'s
every few feet to cable tie the hardlines and coaxes to it for support.
Don't forget to use pieces of stainless such as washers or foil, plus
antioxidant, wherever the copper and aluminum mate.
In practice, it's real easy - which is a key element in human habits!
Just reach over to the panel, yank the shorting plugs out of the jacks
you want to use, and plug in your jumpers. At this point, the rigs also
become grounded through the shields of the jumpers. It's essentially a
switchboard, too, so you can connect any rig to any antenna. When done,
yank of the jumpers and push on the shorting plugs. Rigs become
ungrounded and present no path to stray lightning energy.
--...MARK_N1LO...--
________________________________________________________________
YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET!
Juno now offers FREE Internet Access!
Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
--
FAQ on WWW: http://www.contesting.com/towertalkfaq.html
Submissions: towertalk@contesting.com
Administrative requests: towertalk-REQUEST@contesting.com
Problems: owner-towertalk@contesting.com
Search: http://www.contesting.com/km9p/search.htm