[TowerTalk] Ground rod drivers.

[Dale L Martin]

>
> At 11:30 PM 1/17/01 +0000, t colbert wrote:
> >
> >I've had the screw-on pipe caps come off when driving ground rods.  The
> >threads
> >
> >cut into the pipe weaken it such that the metal gives way.
> >
> >
> >Rod drivers can be rented, or if you are frugal like me, weld a strap
> >over the
> >
> >cap and on to the body of the driver.
>
> Or borrow one from a local farmer.  For that matter, they only cost ~$15
> for a real one.
>
I've kept as quiet as I can stand as long as I can stand.

Year's ago, I drove one ground rod in with a hammer.  I swore never again.
The next ground rod went in with a homebrew piledriver: a gallon paint can
filled with concrete into which a pipe with a T-fitting was placed about
halfway down.  After it set, it was an easy matter to simply start the
ground rod the first few inches into the ground, then, on a step ladder,
place the 'piledriver' on the rod and lift and let drop.  Worked like a
charm.  It was actually kind of fun.

I used it for three ground rods with tremedous success and never a crack or
damage to the 'piledriver'.

Then, my old buddy, Madison, W5MJ, announced his 'miracle' ground rod
placement method: dig a small hole (3-4" deep, ~1" dia.), pour in some
water, and gently work the ground rod down into the ground, replenishing
with water from time to time.  Done right, it takes less than a gallon of
water and less than 30 minutes to plant the ground rod.

Of course, this is all done in Texas Coastal Prairie soil conditions: gumbo
(clay, to all of you not lucky enough to be from Texas).

73,
dale, kg5u


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