[TowerTalk] Tower Painting

[K8RI on Tower talk]

> An idea I had once concerning this, as I was getting it all over me, the 
> grass, my hair and my close, was to fill a PVC pipe longer
> and a bit more in circumference than the tower leg with the stuff.
>
> I think you can get it in liquids rather than sprays. It would probably be 
> more cost effective than the spray because you would

When you use it in liquid form, as I do and pour it into the tower legs a 
quart should be plenty, particularly when it is cut with thinnner..


> waste less in the air and in the paint brush.
>
> Of course this would only work if the tower was just delivered new or 
> disassembled used.
>
> This way you could actually dip it and cover the whole thing evenly, never 
> having to do it ever again

The thing is, you need many gallons of paint to do even half a tower 
section.  Dip one half, pull it out reverse it and dip the other half. 
However flipping a tower section that has been dipped could turn out to be 
messy.

Roger Halstead (K8RI and ARRL 40 year Life Member)
N833R - World's oldest Debonair CD-2
www.rogerhalstead.com
>
> You would of course have to seal the ends of the PVC so that it did not 
> dry when not in use.
>
> This would probably save a lot of primer and be used in many other 
> applications as well.
>
>  73 fer nw,
> Bob AD5VJ(AAR6VM)
> Visit My Ham Blog
> http://www.ad5vj.com/
>
> 10X# 37210, FP#-1141, SMIRK#-5177
> Code may be taking a back seat for now,
> but the pioneering spirit that put the code
> there in the first place is out front of it all.
>
>
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: towertalk-bounces at contesting.com
>> [mailto:towertalk-bounces at contesting.com] On Behalf Of K8RI
>> on Tower talk
>> Sent: Monday, May 01, 2006 2:45 PM
>> To: towertalk at contesting.com
>> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Tower Painting
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> > Hi:
>> > In reply to Bob, I think he means red oxide primer, which is an oil
>> > based primer that bonds to the rust (not
>>
>> I'm not sure if the above is in reference to my remark about
>> doing the inside of the masts and legs with the primer, but
>> yes that is the primer to which I was refering.
>>
>> >sure about the bonding). I have used a lot of that. It is good when
>> >there is no galvanization left. That is, when
>>
>> "I think" there is a chemical reaction with the rust from
>> reading the lable on the can, but I'd not gurantee  it.
>>
>> >there is no zinc left and the galvanized coating has been completely
>> >(or nearly completely) replaced by rust. I >am not sure they
>> let it get
>> >that far in the Navy.
>> >
>> > Otherwise, I have used white water based primer that I
>> think is only
>> > an adhesive between the galvanized >metal and the top coat.
>>
>> If there's no rust I'd think that would be plenty sufficient.
>>
>> >
>> > My question was how do you get it on the inside of the
>> tower leg? The
>> > tower sections I work with, mostly, >are tubular steel.
>>
>> It all depends on how messy you are willing to get. <:-))
>> Some just stick a high pressure spray gun into the end of
>> each leg (with the section horizontal of pointeld slightly
>> down hill). I cap off the ends of the legs using plastic pipe
>> caps and wrap electrical tape around the outside over the
>> bolt holes. Then I stand the section on end and pour in
>> enough thinned primer to fill each leg.
>>
>> Do this in an area where spilled paint will not be a problem.
>> If one of those caps come soff , or the tape leaks it'll make
>> a big mess in a hurry.
>>
>> Roger Halstead (K8RI and ARRL 40 year Life Member) N833R -
>> World's oldest Debonair CD-2 www.rogerhalstead.com
>> > R.
>> > _______________________________________________
>> >
>> >
>> >
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