[TowerTalk] for sale

Thu Oct 12 18:42:03 EDT 2006

 Complete station up for sale. includes yaesu ft-1000 mp
ma-770 tower with base
yaesu sdx 800 rotor. 
wx0b stack match
2 force 12 c3s antennas with 5kw baluns.
1 cushcraft 40-2 cd with 5kw balun
1 brand new c3ss no balun
1 acom 2000 auto tune amp with tubes
asking $20,000 for all. 
 All are up you need to come to staten island and take down.

-----Original Message-----
From: towertalk-request at contesting.com
To: towertalk at contesting.com
Sent: Thu, 12 Oct 2006 10:52 AM
Subject: TowerTalk Digest, Vol 46, Issue 47

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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of TowerTalk digest..."

Today's Topics:

   1. Re: Turnbuckle Vandalism:  Waring High RF (Robert Chudek - K?RC)
   2. Re: How best to keep the rebar cage centered in thehole?
      (Donald Chester)
   3. Re: How best to keep the rebar cage centered in the   hole?
      (Dick Green WC1M)
   4. rebar DOES cause concrete spalling (FireBrick)
   5. RF saftey (Craig Clark)
   6. Re: How best to keep the rebar cage centered in the hole?
      (Bill Tippett)
   7. Re: RF saftey (Craig Clark)
   8. How best to keep the rebar cage centered in the hole?
      (Karen Ashpole)
   9. Re: "Tower in the woods" (k2qmf at juno.com)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2006 01:19:03 -0500
From: Robert Chudek - K?RC <k0rc at citlink.net>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Turnbuckle Vandalism:  Waring High RF
To: <towertalk at contesting.com>
Message-ID: <05a301c6edc6$52ff5310$6500a8c0 at GX400A>
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset="iso-8859-1"

Message: 7
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2006 20:05:11 -0700
From: gdaught6 at stanford.edu
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Turnbuckle Vandalism:  Waring High RF
To: towertalk at contesting.com
Message-ID: <452D4E77.26172.2A14323 at gdaught6.stanford.edu>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

On 11 Oct 2006 at 22:24, Cam and Juli Hedrick wrote:

> The "Known to cause cancer" part was not in seriousness.  I do however know
> what a 10kw microwave signal can do to a human with extended exposure and
> it's not a pretty site.  The brain damage was severe.  No one can tell me
> that RF is safe either and it is hazardous to your health or we would not
> have RF exposure limits in broadcast stations...including Amateur radio
> stations. So it is known to cause damage to the human body.

The whole point at the beginning of this thread was "Find a way to 
keep vandals away from my towers/guys/turnbuckles."  If a sign saying 
that radio waves caused erectile dysfunction and dysmenorrhea would 
do the trick, that was the motivation... not the medical validity of 
the statement on the sign.

73,

  George T. Daughters, K6GT

Well George, then a simple sign like this should do the trick:

TRESPASSERS SHOT FIRST
QUESTIONS ASKED SECOND!

73 de Bob - K?RC in MN

------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2006 07:02:46 +0000
From: "Donald Chester" <k4kyv at hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] How best to keep the rebar cage centered in
    thehole?
To: towertalk at contesting.com
Message-ID: <BAY114-F9F6843E29E8D6E457A50CF4150 at phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed

I suspended mine from 2 X 4's laid across the hole, using the same kind of 
wire I used to tie the pieces of rebar together.  After the concrete was 
poured, I shoved diagonal cutters down into the poured concrete and clipped 
off the wires beneath the surface, and then made sure I smoothed over the 
hole where I removed the cutters.

Then I immediately washed the concrete off the cutters.
_______________________________________________________________

This message was typed using the DVORAK keyboard layout.
http://www.mwbrooks.com/dvorak/
http://gigliwood.com/abcd/

------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2006 07:14:23 -0400
From: "Dick Green WC1M" <wc1m at msn.com>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] How best to keep the rebar cage centered in
    the hole?
To: <ersmar at comcast.net>, "'Scotty Rathjen'" <scotty at ashiko.com>,
    <towertalk at contesting.com>
Cc: 'Scotty Rathjen' <scotty at ashiko.com>
Message-ID: <BAY103-DAV844DCA2B38B2CED9CDCF88D150 at phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset="us-ascii"

I recently used the method suggested by Gene and it works well. I used sheet
rock screws instead of nails, but the idea is the same. Basically, you're
using the wires to "guy" the rebar cage in place. I can't recall exactly
when I cut the wires, but it was probably sometime after the concrete was
halfway up the cage. 

73, Dick WC1M

> -----Original Message-----
> From: ersmar at comcast.net [mailto:ersmar at comcast.net] 
> Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2006 8:35 PM
> To: Scotty Rathjen; towertalk at contesting.com
> Cc: Scotty Rathjen
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] How best to keep the rebar cage 
> centered in the hole?
> 
> Scotty:
> 
>      Do NOT use the rebar in the foundation hole as an anchor 
> point for your rebar cage.  The ends of the rebars sticking 
> into the dirt will eventually corrode and follow the rest of 
> the rebar into the concrete mass.  That could lead to 
> cracking, especially that close to the top of the concrete.  
> (That's why you're using paving stones in the bottom of the 
> hole - to keep the rebar ends out of the dirt - right?)
> 
>      If you framed out the top of the hole to form a neat 
> concrete crown for the top of the concrete pour, you can 
> hammer in a few nails around that wooden form, leaving a half 
> inch of nail sticking out.  Then wrap some rebar wire around 
> the upper rebar pieces and use the nails to hold these wire 
> pieces in place.  That will give some rigidity to your rebar 
> cage while the concrete is being poured.
> 
>      If you did not use wood to form the top of your concrete 
> base, then you can hammer some rebars into the dirt ON TOP of 
> the ground, then anchor the rebar wires to these rebars.  
> 
>      When the concrete gets near these top pieces of rebar, 
> simply cut the wires off the rebar and pull the wires out of 
> the form, then finish the pour.  There will be enough 
> concrete in the hole by that time to keep the rebar from 
> moving any more.  Don't let the wires stick out of the 
> concrete while it's curing - corrosion can find its way into 
> the concrete through the corroding wires.
> 
> 73 de
> Gene Smar  AD3F
> 
>   
>  -------------- Original message ----------------------
> From: "Scotty Rathjen" <scotty at ashiko.com>
> > What is the best way to keep the rebar cage in the center 
> of the hole 
> > as I pour the concrete?  The rebar cage is held together 
> with wire and 
> > when it sits vertical in the hole on the paving stones the 
> cage wants 
> > to sag against the side of the hole for support.  Can I 
> pound a 8 inch 
> > piece of rebar into the dirt on the inside of the hole wall, a foot 
> > from the top, and use a piece of wire to hole the rebar 
> cage up in the position I want it to be in?
> > Is this a problem?  Is there a better way?
> > 73 and thanks for any and all help.
> > Scotty W7SW
> > W7SW at ARRL dot Net
> > 
> > 
> > _______________________________________________
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > _______________________________________________
> > TowerTalk mailing list
> > TowerTalk at contesting.com
> > http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
> 
> 
> 
> 

------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2006 06:54:54 -0500
From: "FireBrick" <w9ol at billnjudy.com>
Subject: [TowerTalk] rebar DOES cause concrete spalling
To: "TowerTalk List" <towertalk at contesting.com>
Message-ID: <00c401c6edf5$3b659000$6401a8c0 at MEDIA>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
    reply-type=original

That was my business. I was one of those guys, you saw on scaffolds hanging on 
the side of 
buildings repairing concrete, stone, and masonry.

I was a Chicago licensed masonry contractor.

Even on the sides of concrete buildings, rebar, too close to the surface would 
adsorb 
enough moisture through the concrete to rust.
Rust can cause rebar to increase it's size 11 fold.
That would cause the concrete to spall off, exposing more rebar etc. etc.

I don't know if that's empirical, actual, or just "been dere, made lots of money 
fixing 
it" evidence.

Now how long before the bottom of the concrete base spalled off to cause 
problems 
certainly depends on many factors and I can't predict.

But moisture contact with rebar will cause rust, and will cause concrete to 
deteriorate.

-----------------------------------------------------
Cat's Favorite Game - "Ha! Made you look!"
-----------------------------------------------------

Bill H. in Chicagoland
webcams at http://24.14.49.4:8080
weather at http://hhweather.webhop.org

------------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2006 08:49:44 -0400
From: Craig Clark <jcclark at wildblue.net>
Subject: [TowerTalk] RF saftey
To: towertalk at contesting.com
Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20061012084718.03d50108 at wildblue.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

>
>The "Known to cause cancer" part was not in seriousness.  I do however know
>what a 10kw microwave signal can do to a human with extended exposure and
>it's not a pretty site.

The key is you are talking about microwaves not HF signals and the 
difference is ionizing versus no ionizing radiation.

back to tower contruction..................................

73, Craig Clark, K1QX

RADIOWARE AND RADIO BOOKSTORE
PO  BOX 209
RINDGE NH 03461
603 899 6957
WWW.RADIO-WARE.COM

------------------------------

Message: 6
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2006 08:57:13 -0400
From: Bill Tippett <btippett at alum.mit.edu>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] How best to keep the rebar cage centered in
    the hole?
To: towertalk at contesting.com
Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.0.20061012084642.0201c0b0 at alumni.wfu.edu>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed;
    x-avg-checked=avg-ok-437E7ECD

W7SW:
 >What is the best way to keep the rebar cage in the center of the hole as I
pour the concrete?

         I always attach my first section of
guyed tower to the base and then guy it with 3 wires
to stakes 4-5' away from the base.  It's important to
always make sure the base section is plumb so I use a
vertical level on each of the 3 legs when guying.  I
then also check it immediately after the concrete is
poured to make sure the concrete pour did not cause
movement.  It's very easy to adjust the entire
structure while the concrete is still wet.

         The above might not work for crank-ups (no
experience) but it works very well for guyed towers.

                                         73,  Bill  W4ZV

------------------------------

Message: 7
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2006 09:54:29 -0400
From: Craig Clark <jcclark at wildblue.net>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] RF saftey
To: "Darrel J. Van Buer" <darrel at vanbuer.net>
Cc: towertalk at contesting.com
Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20061012095236.03d86288 at wildblue.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

You're right and, as usual, I am wrong. "Often wrong but never in doubt."

My apologies to the list.

Again, back to towers

At 09:48 10/12/2006, you wrote:
>Note that microwaves are NOT ionizing radiation.  You don't get 
>ionization until you get into ultraviolet (which is
>why it contributes to skin cancer).
>The hazards from RF are absorption causing heating or high induced 
>voltages.  Microwaves are the most effectively absorbed.
>  Darrel AK6I
>Craig Clark wrote:
>
>>The key is you are talking about microwaves not HF signals and the 
>>difference is ionizing versus no ionizing radiation.
>>
>>back to tower contruction..................................
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>73, Craig Clark, K1QX
>>
>>
>>RADIOWARE AND RADIO BOOKSTORE
>>PO  BOX 209
>>RINDGE NH 03461
>>603 899 6957
>>WWW.RADIO-WARE.COM
>>
>>
>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>
>>
>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>TowerTalk mailing list
>>TowerTalk at contesting.com
>>http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
>>
>>
>
>
>--
>Darrel J. Van Buer, AK6I
>darrel at vanbuer.net

73, Craig Clark, K1QX

RADIOWARE AND RADIO BOOKSTORE
PO  BOX 209
RINDGE NH 03461
603 899 6957
WWW.RADIO-WARE.COM

------------------------------

Message: 8
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2006 06:50:11 -0600
From: "Karen Ashpole" <ruthere_bear02 at hotmail.com>
Subject: [TowerTalk] How best to keep the rebar cage centered in the
    hole?
To: <towertalk at contesting.com>
Cc: nb7v at msn.com
Message-ID: <BAY121-DAV128DDD138A10A7522EAE1DEF150 at phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset="iso-8859-1"

scotty, nail a 2x4 across the top of the form and tie wire your cage to it. 
start your concrete pour in center of the rebar cage, slowly fill the form from  
the center first. the  concrete in the center will stabilize the cage.  Jam an 8 
ft 2x4 at an angle thru the cage using it as a lever to hold the cage and move 
it as needed.Don,t worry about rusted rebar concrete is pourous ask anyone with 
a leaky basement!  To judge how long your rebar will last just leave a piece 
beside your tower pad.
Dave NB7V
General contractor when not contesting

------------------------------

Message: 9
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2006 10:51:24 -0400
From: k2qmf at juno.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] "Tower in the woods"
To: w7why at verizon.net
Cc: towertalk at contesting.com
Message-ID: <20061012.105129.3256.0.K2QMF at juno.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

  YES,  without a doubt... 

Ted  K2QMF

On Wed, 11 Oct 2006 19:55:34 -0700 "Tom Osborne" <w7why at verizon.net>
writes:
> 
> -----
> 
> > Hello All,
> > I have a question about a tower in the woods...
> >
> > If a tower, in the woods, falls over and no one is around
> > would it make any noise???
> >
> 
> Or--if a man speaks in the forest and there is not a woman to hear 
> him, is 
> he still wrong???  73
> 
> Tom W7WHY
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> TowerTalk mailing list
> TowerTalk at contesting.com
> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
> 
> 

------------------------------

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End of TowerTalk Digest, Vol 46, Issue 47
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