[TowerTalk] TowerTalk Digest, Vol 49, Issue 9

ny6dx at aim.com ny6dx at aim.com
Thu Jan 4 08:02:17 EST 2007


 By code the outside panel ground should be in direct contact to earth and terminated at ground rod. a second panel ground should run to the water main and terminate on the street side of the valve. This is in case you lose the nuetral from the pole you do not send 220 volts throughout the house.
P.S. 
I am a licensed electrician if that matters.
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: towertalk-request at contesting.com
To: towertalk at contesting.com
Sent: Wed, 3 Jan 2007 10:07 PM
Subject: TowerTalk Digest, Vol 49, Issue 9


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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: Aluminum mast (Clint Talmadge)
   2. Bruce Meier: Inverted L?? (Mike Bragassa)
   3. Re: Aluminum mast (Bob Maser)
   4. Re: Aluminum mast (Dave N?RQ)
   5. Plugging the top of Rohn 25 (KC4HW)
   6. Re: Plugging the top of Rohn 25 (Cqtestk4xs at aol.com)
   7. Antenna/Tower Grounding (Lightning Protection)
      (Richard W. Solomon)
   8.  Aluminum mast (john at kk9a.com)
   9. Entrance grounding panel question (Les Kalmus)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2007 18:20:09 -0600
From: "Clint Talmadge" <unclebudd at bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Aluminum mast
To: "Roger Kissel" <kc8hz at hotmail.com>, <towertalk at contesting.com>
Message-ID: <00be01c72f96$18f185f0$6001a8c0 at ClintsLaptop>
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset="iso-8859-1"

If it were me, I would stick it up there. But first I would ask Gerald at Texas 
Towers. That man knows more about aluminum up in the sky than anybody. I know 
this for a fact since I have seen his EME arrays.

Clint - W5CPT

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Roger Kissel 
  To: towertalk at contesting.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2007 6:14 PM
  Subject: [TowerTalk] Aluminum mast


  Hi All

  I think I recall seeing a comment about mast, tubing and pipe.

  Back in my early days, we used extruded 6061-T6 in 2 inch diameter with 1/4 
  inch wall. Many of us sprung for the tubing and put as much os 20 feet of it 
  out the top of the tower. It seemed to hold up and I don't remember anyone 
  having any problem with it.

  That being said, I'm planning to put a tower with some HF antennae and I 
  found my old 24 foot 6061 mast in the barn. It's about 30 years old and 
  isn't even corroded.      You know what I'm planning to do, so let me hear 
  why I SHOULDN'T use this.  Especially after all the years of great track 
  record from the locals in southwestern Ohio.

  Roger
  KC8HZ

  _________________________________________________________________
  Dave vs. Carl: The Insignificant Championship Series. Who will win? 
  http://clk.atdmt.com/MSN/go/msnnkwsp0070000001msn/direct/01/?href=http://davevscarl.spaces.live.com/?icid=T001MSN38C07001




------------------------------------------------------------------------------


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------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2007 18:44:00 -0600
From: "Mike Bragassa" <bragassa at consolidated.net>
Subject: [TowerTalk] Bruce Meier: Inverted L??
To: <towertalk at contesting.com>
Message-ID: <00a601c72f99$6cd09820$0200a8c0 at MAIN>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="Windows-1252";
    reply-type=original

Bruce: where is the inverted-L you had here in Texas?  You didn't leave it 
here did you?
Maybe you thought like me that all you need on the (near) east  coast is 
a....wire....Hi.?
Mike, K5UO
......................................................................................................................................
Hi Bruce,

It sounds like you have a good plan.   The only serious problem I see is 
that 160 will be weak for DXing, an inverted-V at 100 ft is just a cloud 
warmer so you'll have a great signal on the east coast!  Suggest u consider 
adding an Inverted-L to your arsenal.

Good luck!

73
Frank
W3LPL

 




------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2007 21:07:57 -0500
From: "Bob Maser" <bmaser at tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Aluminum mast
To: <kb0fhp at comcast.net>, "Roger Kissel" <kc8hz at hotmail.com>,
    <towertalk at contesting.com>
Message-ID: <026201c72fa5$2748cbe0$0300a8c0 at W6TR>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
    reply-type=original

Why would anyone want to use aluminum for a mast?  Rust resistance? 
Lightweight? Flexibility?  None of these are necessary characteristics of a 
mast.  The toughest aluminum alloy made doesn't come close to most steel 
alloys.  I recall back in the 70's a certain ham(a WB9) decided to use 
aluminum to stack some  beams.  To stiffen it up, he drove a hardwood dowel 
into the mast.  6 months later the top half broke off in a wind storm and 
came right thru his kitchen roof.  True story.

Bob  W6TR
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "D. Scott MacKenzie" <kb0fhp at comcast.net>
To: "Roger Kissel" <kc8hz at hotmail.com>; <towertalk at contesting.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2007 7:19 PM
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Aluminum mast


>I would inspect it - perhaps doing a dye-penetrant examination (look at
> welding supply stores) - but other than that - it should work well as long
> as you apply adequate safety factor and do not load it excessively
>
> Scott
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: towertalk-bounces at contesting.com
> [mailto:towertalk-bounces at contesting.com]On Behalf Of Roger Kissel
> Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2007 7:14 PM
> To: towertalk at contesting.com
> Subject: [TowerTalk] Aluminum mast
>
>
> Hi All
>
> I think I recall seeing a comment about mast, tubing and pipe.
>
> Back in my early days, we used extruded 6061-T6 in 2 inch diameter with 
> 1/4
> inch wall. Many of us sprung for the tubing and put as much os 20 feet of 
> it
> out the top of the tower. It seemed to hold up and I don't remember anyone
> having any problem with it.
>
> That being said, I'm planning to put a tower with some HF antennae and I
> found my old 24 foot 6061 mast in the barn. It's about 30 years old and
> isn't even corroded.      You know what I'm planning to do, so let me hear
> why I SHOULDN'T use this.  Especially after all the years of great track
> record from the locals in southwestern Ohio.
>
> Roger
> KC8HZ
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Dave vs. Carl: The Insignificant Championship Series.  Who will win?
> http://clk.atdmt.com/MSN/go/msnnkwsp0070000001msn/direct/01/?href=http://dav
> evscarl.spaces.live.com/?icid=T001MSN38C07001
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> TowerTalk mailing list
> TowerTalk at contesting.com
> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk 



------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2007 20:21:00 -0600
From: Dave N?RQ <n0rq-lists at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Aluminum mast
To: <towertalk at contesting.com>
Message-ID: <008101c72fa6$fa6de090$0401a8c0 at ham1>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
    reply-type=original

Why aluminum?

Lighter, yes.  No rust, true.

But the main reason is that in some applications, such as
a modest tribander and a couple of modest VHF/UHF
beams, the aluminum is more than strong enough, AND, from
what I'm told, if a steel mast gives, it will tend to break, resulting
in the loss of all antennas, whereas an aluminum mast will tend
to just bend but stay intact, probably resulting in antennas that
are still (mostly) undamaged or repairable.

(I'm sure someone will let me know if I'm all wet  ;-)

-- 
Dave N0RQ
http://www.powerlinenoise.com


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Maser" <bmaser at tampabay.rr.com>
To: <kb0fhp at comcast.net>; "Roger Kissel" <kc8hz at hotmail.com>; 
<towertalk at contesting.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2007 20:07
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Aluminum mast


> Why would anyone want to use aluminum for a mast?  Rust resistance?
> Lightweight? Flexibility?  None of these are necessary characteristics of 
> a
> mast.  The toughest aluminum alloy made doesn't come close to most steel
> alloys.  I recall back in the 70's a certain ham(a WB9) decided to use
> aluminum to stack some  beams.  To stiffen it up, he drove a hardwood 
> dowel
> into the mast.  6 months later the top half broke off in a wind storm and
> came right thru his kitchen roof.  True story.
>
> Bob  W6TR
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "D. Scott MacKenzie" <kb0fhp at comcast.net>
> To: "Roger Kissel" <kc8hz at hotmail.com>; <towertalk at contesting.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2007 7:19 PM
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Aluminum mast
>
>
>>I would inspect it - perhaps doing a dye-penetrant examination (look at
>> welding supply stores) - but other than that - it should work well as 
>> long
>> as you apply adequate safety factor and do not load it excessively
>>
>> Scott
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: towertalk-bounces at contesting.com
>> [mailto:towertalk-bounces at contesting.com]On Behalf Of Roger Kissel
>> Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2007 7:14 PM
>> To: towertalk at contesting.com
>> Subject: [TowerTalk] Aluminum mast
>>
>>
>> Hi All
>>
>> I think I recall seeing a comment about mast, tubing and pipe.
>>
>> Back in my early days, we used extruded 6061-T6 in 2 inch diameter with
>> 1/4
>> inch wall. Many of us sprung for the tubing and put as much os 20 feet of
>> it
>> out the top of the tower. It seemed to hold up and I don't remember 
>> anyone
>> having any problem with it.
>>
>> That being said, I'm planning to put a tower with some HF antennae and I
>> found my old 24 foot 6061 mast in the barn. It's about 30 years old and
>> isn't even corroded.      You know what I'm planning to do, so let me 
>> hear
>> why I SHOULDN'T use this.  Especially after all the years of great track
>> record from the locals in southwestern Ohio.
>>
>> Roger
>> KC8HZ
>>
>> _________________________________________________________________
>> Dave vs. Carl: The Insignificant Championship Series.  Who will win?
>> http://clk.atdmt.com/MSN/go/msnnkwsp0070000001msn/direct/01/?href=http://dav
>> evscarl.spaces.live.com/?icid=T001MSN38C07001
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> TowerTalk mailing list
>> TowerTalk at contesting.com
>> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
>
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> TowerTalk mailing list
> TowerTalk at contesting.com
> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk 



------------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Wed, 03 Jan 2007 20:30:12 -0600
From: "KC4HW" <jimjohnson at alaweb.com>
Subject: [TowerTalk] Plugging the top of Rohn 25
To: TOWERTALK at contesting.com
Message-ID: <459C1254.22163.D67516B at jimjohnson.alaweb.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

I have a 70' rohn 25 with a regular section for the top section.  What is 
being used to plug the holes to prevent rain water from accummulating in 
the tower legs?


Jim/KC4HW
http://www.AlabamaContestGroup.org
http://www.AlabamaQSOParty.org (June 2nd and 3rd, 2007)




------------------------------

Message: 6
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2007 21:35:27 EST
From: Cqtestk4xs at aol.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Plugging the top of Rohn 25
To: jimjohnson at alaweb.com
Cc: TOWERTALK at contesting.com
Message-ID: <c46.b17e8ec.32cdc1ef at aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"

I would imagine you could cover them with an end cap of PVC of the  
appropriate size....hot glue them in place.
 
Bill K4XS/KH7XS


------------------------------

Message: 7
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2007 21:42:41 -0500
From: "Richard W. Solomon" <w1ksz at earthlink.net>
Subject: [TowerTalk] Antenna/Tower Grounding (Lightning Protection)
To: <towertalk at contesting.com>
Message-ID: <IBEAICMPAKMPCMJKFBLBMECNGGAA.w1ksz at earthlink.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset="iso-8859-1"

Looking for advice on what to use to protect the Tower, Antennas and
Rigs from lightning strikes. I guess I need Tower Ground(s) and some
kind of Coax grounding that can survive.
I looked at the Polyphaser site, but unless you know the Model Number,
it could be a long night.

What would you suggest ?

Thanks,

73, Dick, W1KSZ 



------------------------------

Message: 8
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2007 21:52:26 -0500
From: <john at kk9a.com>
Subject: [TowerTalk]  Aluminum mast
To: <TOWERTALK at contesting.com>
Cc: kc8hz at hotmail.com
Message-ID: <000301c72fab$601c02b0$c8f42143 at Basement>
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset="iso-8859-1"

I am a big fan of aluminum masts and I use them on both of my P40A towers 
shown on http://www.qrz.com/p40a .  They are not as strong as steel and they 
do bend more so you have to make sure that you don't overload them with 
antennas.  I like them in my application because they corrode much slower 
than steel.  If there are antennae on your mast you should use a garden hose 
to wash out the insects that crawled inside before installing it : )

John KK9A


To: towertalk at contesting.com
Subject: [TowerTalk] Aluminum mast
From: "Roger Kissel" <kc8hz at hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 03 Jan 2007 19:14:15 -0500
List-post: <mailto:towertalk at contesting.com>

Hi All

I think I recall seeing a comment about mast, tubing and pipe.

Back in my early days, we used extruded 6061-T6 in 2 inch diameter with 1/4 
inch wall. Many of us sprung for the tubing and put as much os 20 feet of it 
out the top of the tower. It seemed to hold up and I don't remember anyone 
having any problem with it.

That being said, I'm planning to put a tower with some HF antennae and I 
found my old 24 foot 6061 mast in the barn. It's about 30 years old and 
isn't even corroded. You know what I'm planning to do, so let me hear why I 
SHOULDN'T use this. Especially after all the years of great track record 
from the locals in southwestern Ohio.


Roger
KC8HZ 



------------------------------

Message: 9
Date: Wed, 03 Jan 2007 22:07:39 -0500
From: Les Kalmus <w2lk at earthlink.net>
Subject: [TowerTalk] Entrance grounding panel question
To: TTalk <towertalk at contesting.com>
Message-ID: <459C6F7B.4080803 at earthlink.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

HNY TTers,

I am building a new house to replace the 105 year old farmhouse we now live in. 
The existing cable runs, 3 hardline, 2 control cables and 110VAC to the tower 
will be retained and will pass through the new concrete foundation.

Is it best to provide the entrance grounding panel outside or inside of the 
foundation? I think inside will be more convenient to work on and require a 
smaller opening(s) in the wall but outside directly to the perimeter ground 
sounds like the way to go.

In either case, can someone suggest the most professional way to do this? 
Aesthetics (XYL) are important. The current install comes through the existing 
foundation wall below grade and is invisible outside but is far from a grounding 
system as I would have liked it.

By the way, if anyone is interested, the farmhouse, which was renovated about 5 
1/2 years ago and is in good shape but a little small for our needs is anyone's 
for the taking during March. Located south of Kingston, NY.

73, Les W2LK




------------------------------

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