[TowerTalk] Coax soldering

[Pete Smith]

There is - you can use a dipole center insulator such as the Budwig RF-1.

73, Pete N4ZR
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On 10/21/2009 6:37 PM, Pete Stark K4OM wrote:
> If only there were a device for connecting a BALanced device to an UNbalanced device. We could use such a device for this problem.
>
> Pete K4OM
>    ----- Original Message -----
>    From: TexasRF at aol.com
>    To: pstark at suddenlink.net ; richard at karlquist.com ; W1JCW at hotmail.com
>    Cc: towertalk at contesting.com
>    Sent: Wednesday, October 21, 2009 6:24 PM
>    Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Coax soldering
>
>
>    Pete, the problem is there are no instructions for connecting coax to open wire.We were talking about fishing the center conductor through the braid to do the job. No connector involved at all in this case.
>
>    73,
>    Gerald K5GW
>
>
>
>    In a message dated 10/21/2009 5:16:12 P.M. Central Daylight Time, pstark at suddenlink.net writes:
>      I have followed the mfg instructions to the letter for almost 50 years as a
>      ham and 31 in broadcast tv and radio.  Very few problems with solder or
>      crimp connectors.  When I did have a problem, it was because I didn't follow
>      instructions. Directions for connectors are in the handbook.  Fishing the
>      braid thru the holes is loony.  Need heat?  Use one of the mini-torches.
>      Use flux and a little vise.
>
>
>      It is vital that instructions be followed on heliax type cable. To the
>      letter.
>
>      Pete K4OM
>
>
>
>      ----- Original Message -----
>      From:<TexasRF at aol.com>
>      To:<richard at karlquist.com>;<W1JCW at hotmail.com>
>      Cc:<towertalk at contesting.com>
>      Sent: Wednesday, October 21, 2009 6:01 PM
>      Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Coax soldering
>
>
>      >  Rick has the answer. Fishing the center conductor through the opening in
>      >  the shield is easier if you provide a few inches of extra length and push
>      >  the
>      >  shield up the coax so it increases diameter a bit.
>      >
>      >  The crimp terminals are ok but I personally would solder them to the coax
>      >  after crimping for long term reliability. If you use ring terminals, they
>      >  can be  bent with long nose pliers to fit around the open wire conductors
>      >  and
>      >  then  soldered to the open wire conductors.
>      >
>      >  73,
>      >  Gerald K5GW
>      >
>      >
>      >
>      >
>      >  In a message dated 10/21/2009 4:33:27 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
>      >  richard at karlquist.com writes:
>      >
>      >  W1JCW  wrote:
>      >>
>      >>  Hi guys -
>      >>
>      >>  What is your preferred way to  solder an open wire feeder on say RG8 or
>      >>  RG213 ?
>      >>
>      >>  I  know some cut the brand down the middle, solder it at the base and
>      >  work
>      >>  their way to the tip.
>      >>  Some twist it then solder or  flatting it.
>      >>
>      >>  I am looking to try something  new.
>      >>
>      >>  Suggestions ?
>      >>
>      >>  73-
>      >>  W1JCW
>      >>   John
>      >
>      >
>      >  To answer the original question about lead dress on the  coax:
>      >
>      >  "Something new" (to you) is to use tweezers to displace the  braid
>      >  near the "base" (ie away from the end) such that a hole is  formed
>      >  in the braid.  This is done without cutting.  Then,  needlenose
>      >  pliers are used to grab the dielectric and yank it through  the
>      >  hole.  Sounds tricky, but I've done it dozens of times.  For  smaller
>      >  coax (up to RG58) they have a tool called a "lead extractor"  that
>      >  makes this easier.   See:
>      >
>      >  http://www.stanleysupplyservices.com/product-group.aspx?id=723
>      >
>      >  This  tool is too small for RG8, but gives you the idea of what you
>      >  want to do by  hand.
>      >
>      >  The other thing to do is install crimp terminals on the  braid
>      >  and center conductor so that you are not soldering to the  coax.
>      >
>      >  Rick  N6RK
>      >
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