[TowerTalk] securing loose element ends
Jim Thomson
jim.thom at telus.net
Thu Sep 23 00:51:49 PDT 2010
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 20:45:35 -0500
From: Stan Stockton <k5go at cox.net>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] securing loose element ends
Kathy,
Pop rivets work very well. That is what I would recommend at every
joint - even in addition to the hose clamps.
Stan, K5GO
## F-12 uses SOLID....'closed end rivets'. I had to get mine from the local
industrial supply place. What you don't want is the rivets that have the ring
around the circumference..just up from the base. That is what hardware stores
usually carry. The solid, closed end aluminum rivets are designed to resist
vibration, and are ideal for ants. Since you have slots in the tubing, that will make
rivets less effective. The rivets will work, but have to be back from the rear of any slot,and
that's only if you have enough tubing overlap.
Get the 1/8" diam x 3/8" long AL rivets, with the slightly domed head. They will fit the curvature of the
tubing. F-12 uses 3 of them, all in a row... aprx 3/4" C to C. They come with a steel mandrel.
## Stainless steel hose clamps [ with the worm gear] will never give you any trbl, you can
crank em up tight with a 3/8" nut driver, and they will never come loose. Just position the worm gear
180 deg opposite the slot. Now those mickey mouse clamps that are used on hy-gain
[and the old wilson co] are pure junk. They use a screw that compress's one side of the ele.
A fellow across town here had his tips almost pop right out, on his hy-gain 204ba. Being on
a ridge, and with his tower up 100' at the time, the winds are pretty wicked.
## SS hose clamps are not my 1st choice, rivets are. Hose clamps have this habit of snagging on stuff,
at the wrong time. If used, the worm gear should be facing upwards.
later... Jim VE7RF
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