[TowerTalk] Tower Legs in Concrete

[K8RI on TT]

On 7/6/2011 7:16 AM, Eddy Swynar wrote:
> Hi Chas,
>
> The Delhi-brand tower sections---including the base extensions that are placed inside the concrete base---have bolt holes at each end for attaching to the next section(s)...the extensions are essentially the "legs" of the tower sections minus the cross-braces.

I would think the cross braces between the legs would be far more 
efficient making the bolts redundant

73

Roger (K8RI)
> The manufacturer recommends inserting long bolts through the bottom holes of each extension (again, the parts that are imbedded within concrete) to ensure (I guess) a firmer "bond" within the concrete after it has set, afforded by the fact that these bolts protrude 90-degrees from the plane of each extension...
>
> Sorta like the barb on the business end of a fish hook...
>
> ~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ
>
>
> ************************************************************************************************************************
>
>
> On 2011-07-05, at 11:46 PM, chas wrote:
>
>> On 6/29/11 8:35 AM, Eddy Swynar wrote:
>>> Hi Mike,
>>>
>>> The DELHI-brand self-supporting tower instructions here do not
>>> specifically reference the necessity of coating the in-cement leg
>>> extensions with ANYTHING...
>>>
>>> They DO, however, explicitly state that you must install long bolts
>>> through holes in the extensions at the bottom, to ensure that the things
>>> won't somehow extricate themselves from the concrete.
>>>
>>> ~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ
>> Eddy...
>>
>> ok, can you say that again?  my understanding is that he is taking a 10'
>> section of 45 and putting 5' of that into a hole and then filling it with
>> concrete.
>> Same thing I did with a 25G.  Btw,  I do suggest that room be left for
>> drainage of water - 1. put a 6" layer of large aggregate in the bottom of the
>> hole and that allows condensate, etc to drain out of the vertical tubes and
>> into the aggregate 2. also drill a couple of 1/4" holes in each leg about 2"
>> above the MOUNDED concrete top (to encourage rain runoff) to allow water to
>> drain out of each tube.  also, DO get a gallon of roofing cement (tar
>> asphalt) and paint the tower section from one foot below the top, MOUNDED
>> surface to one foot ABOVE the top surface of this mounded concrete.  DO pour
>> enough to get the top of the concrete above the level of the ground - use a
>> form tube set about 6" down into the ground and extending between 6" and 8"
>> above the ground level.  iow, get a 1 foot long piece of 3' diam concrete
>> form tube used for sign or highway columns.  In fact, I have formed a
>> relationship with a couple of sign companies and have them do odd jobs like
>> drilling the 3' diam hole and I have them do plate welding, winch/crane work,
>> buy the cardboard concrete form tube.   Remember, mound the top of the pour
>> about 3 - 4" above the top edge of that form tube.  Do NOT allow any chance
>> of dirt to cover the top of that concrete foundation.
>>
>> some of the above is from about 4 yrs of being a sign inspector, more is
>> plain old common sense. btw, about the asphalt, our swamp coolers at home
>> never rusted out... most did within 2 yrs.  tried pricing one of those
>> lately?<G>
>>
>> good luck
>> chas, k5dam
>>
>>
>> Chas
>> -- 
>> A: Because it messes up the order in which people normally read text.<B>
>> Q: Why is top-posting such a bad thing?<B>
>> A: Top-posting.<b>
>> Q: What is the most annoying thing in e-mail?<B>
>>
>> .
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