[TowerTalk] Grounding Question

[Robert Harmon]

Dave,

Great idea !  I forgot about ductseal.

Bob
K6UJ



On Mar 26, 2011, at 3:45 AM, K1TTT wrote:

> Weatherproofing is easy and cheap... Go to local hardware store, buy a
> couple of pounds of ductseal and some half decent electrical tape (not the
> real expensive stuff for this).  Grab a big handful of the ductseal, mold it
> around the joint to be protected, then apply a layer of tape around it to
> protect it from the sun and keep it in place around the joint.  Cheap, works
> fine, lasts a long time, much easier to remove than coax seal or dipped
> rubber junk or self vulcanizing tape.
> 
> 
> David Robbins K1TTT
> e-mail: mailto:k1ttt at arrl.net
> web: http://www.k1ttt.net
> AR-Cluster node: 145.69MHz or telnet://dxc.k1ttt.net
> 
> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: K8RI on TT [mailto:k8ri-on-towertalk at tm.net] 
>> Sent: Saturday, March 26, 2011 04:36
>> To: towertalk at contesting.com
>> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Grounding Question
>> 
>> 
>> On 3/25/2011 10:42 PM, Gene Smar wrote:
>>> Roger:
>>> 
>>>      I understand why you might think that weatherproofing 
>> a ground clamp on
>>> braided coax like RG-8/u might be tricky.  However, it can 
>> be done if you
>>> apply the proper materials.
>> 
>> I don't disagree with that, but I think the weatherproofing technique 
>> may be a bit beyond many.
>> In my case with a 100 foot tower and with grounding normally figured 
>> about every 75 feet, I think the top and bottom of the tower is close 
>> enough.  It's also where the pig tails tie into the coax runs at the 
>> top, and into the SOR2 switching at the bottom so the bulk head 
>> connectors should be as effective as the ones shown.
>>>      I posted some time back in 2001 about applying 
>> homemade ground clamps
>>> to my runs of RG-213 at the top and bottom of my tower:
>>> 
>> http://lists.contesting.com/archives//html/Towertalk/2002-07/m
> sg00698.html
>> .  You can see photos of how Joe KC2TN followed my suggestions here:
>> http://lists.contesting.com/archives//html/Towertalk/2007-10/msg00356.html
>> .  The trick to getting a proper seal is to use Scotch 2200 Mastic Pads to
>> cover the clamp and to bridge the cut in the coax shield.
> I use a Scotch mastic tape, but don't have the number handy. I also use 
> flooded heat shrink which I prefer with the bulkhead connectors as it 
> seals the threads and prevents moisture getting to the connectors.  
> Mastic tape would need to cover the entire connector to keep water away 
> from the threads.  Also the heat shrink is just a whole lot easier.
> 
> The connectors shown in the Times Wire tutorial, or instructions are 
> quite easy to make, once you figure out now much sheet metal to use. A 
> half inch ground rod, piece of tubing, or dowel makes a good mandrel on 
> which to form the clamp. Lay the mandrel in the center of the sheet 
> metal, bend it around and form it with the "duck bill" vise grips that 
> are about 3 or 4" wide. Use a punch to make the holes for the bolts.  
> For aluminum a gasket punch will work nicely.
> 
> I believe getting the weatherproofing done properly would be the most 
> difficult for most hams.
> 
> 73
> 
> Roger (K8RI)
> 
> <snip>
> 
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