[TowerTalk] NEW Tail Twister Rotator

[Doug Renwick]

The first thing you do with a HDR-300 is remove the stops.  If it rotates
past the stops, things break.  By pass or remove the stops.
The HDR-300 does not have a wedge break like the Ham or Tailtwister.
The shaft keyways in the HDR-300 are poorly designed resulting in worn
keyways with lot of play.  Unless you braze the shaft to the large gear or
redesign the shaft keyways, it will end with a lot of play which will get
worse and worse as the keyway wears.
One does not need to raise the mast to remove a HDR-300, and generally with
a Ham/Tailtwister.  Just leave say half inch gap between the mast end and
the rotor end.
BTW HDR-300 with ac motor do not work as well as other dc motors when used
with a Green Heron controller.
An Alfa Spid is a good rotor.

Doug

I'll run the race and I will never be the same again 
-----Original Message-----

When I moved here I put up the big array.  It tore apart the rotator in 
a matter of days. I picked up to HDR 300's.  The HDR rotators were 
plenty strong enough, but the motors offered too little resistance to 
turning.  One day which was kinda windy I tried to turn the system, but 
as soon as I released the brake the array spun around before I could 
stop it with the motor. It took the rotator right past the stops.

A few days later it did the same thing with a second HDR.  That was when 
I ordered the double worm gear rotator and swore I'd never use a rotator 
with a wedge brake on anything larger than a small tribander.

As these rotators were 20 feet down from the top of a 100 foot 45G they 
were a royal PITA to repair which required raising the mast a few inches 
with all that load and locking it in place to keep it from turning with 
the rotator out.


Now here's a rotator and antenna system.
http://www.rogerhalstead.com/ham_files/skyhook.htm

73

Roger (K8RI)



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