[TowerTalk] shrink w/adhesive

[K8RI]

On 8/9/2013 6:42 AM, David Robbins wrote:
> If it is stored in a not too hot place it will probably last much longer
> than that on a shelf.  I think the problem is if you store it too warm it
> seems to start shrinking very slowly so it may not meet the original size
> spec, but it should still melt and shrink to the end size.  I was given a
> box of it that was 'expired' probably 10 years ago and it still seals up
> just fine.
>
> Just remember, it is fairly easy to put on, but almost impossible to take
> off... and it does require significant heat to properly melt and shrink, the
> cigarette lighter you use for plain little shrink tube won't do it, think
> more like propane torch or professional heat gun.

Yup, your wife's hair dryer wont cut it<:-)) I use one of the commercial 
heat guns with a number of replaceable tips. It's also good for removing 
old paint from houses. It's quite capable of setting that wood on fire 
or at least charring it. Still it takes a bit of time to shrink the 
tube. If you live in the North it's good for thawing pipes too<:-))

This may be an over simplification for many, but As David points out, it 
take the proper tools, which fortunately are relatively inexpensive 
(less than your wife's hair dryer)and easy to us, although there may be 
a slight learning curve for some.  Above all, do not heat the coax. 
Heat the tubing from the front of the connector and move toward the 
coax.  Dwell too long on a spot and you can end up melting, or 
drastically softening the dielectric.

If there is a chassis connector involved, I but the Heat Shrink up 
against the chassis end with some pressure and start heating from there 
and move toward the coax, keeping the heat directed at the tube. When 
the end shrinks properly, there should be a complete at the coax. ring 
of hot melt glue squeezed out. Try to cut the ends square.

For splices I've found that starting in the middle and working out, 
works best. You can start at one end but it just works better to start 
in the middle finishing one side before doing the other.

73,

Roger (K8RI)

>
> David Robbins K1TTT
> e-mail: mailto:k1ttt at arrl.net
> web: http://wiki.k1ttt.net
> AR-Cluster node: 145.69MHz or telnet://k1ttt.net
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: K8RI [mailto:K8RI-on-TowerTalk at tm.net]
> Sent: Friday, August 09, 2013 07:57
> To: towertalk at contesting.com
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] shrink w/adhesive
>
> On 8/9/2013 1:00 AM, Ron W8RJL wrote:
>> I've been water proofing coax connectors for years the old school way
>> (with no problems). I'm ready to try the new shrink tube with adhesive
>> which seems l
> ike a good way to go. I just measured a PL-259 shell diameter at about
> 0.7 inches. I see the shrink rate is about 3:1 so I assume 1" diameter
> should work for a PL-259 with RG-213. I also noticed on eBay some
> manufacturers state that the shelf life is only about a year or less so it
> might be wise to buy just
>    what you need as opposed to stocking up. I've seen references to 3M and
> Molex brands. Any comments/recommendations appreciated. If this topic has
> already been beat to death you can reply direct 73, Ron W8RJL email (w8rjl
> at
> arrl.net)
>
> I've had no trouble using the two sizes of 3m carried by the local
> electrical supply. I've been using it for some years and not noticed any
> shelf life problems. Some has to be close to 5 years old, or older.
> http://www.rogerhalstead.com/ham_files/connectors.htm
>
>
> 73,
>
> Roger (K8RI)
>
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