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Robert M0RCX
m6bfd at yahoo.com
Sun Jun 16 14:22:25 EDT 2013
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Robert Rawson
M0RCX
North Wakefield Radio Club
On 16 Jun 2013, at 17:00, towertalk-request at contesting.com wrote:
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> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Yaesu G2800 SDX limited rotation (Grant Saviers)
> 2. Re: Yaesu G2800 SDX limited rotation (davidrobbins)
> 3. Re: How to apply lube to HDX589 (Patrick Greenlee)
> 4. Re: How to apply lube to HDX589 (Doug Turnbull)
> 5. How to apply lube to HDX589 (Jim Thomson)
> 6. FW: When To Replace Tower Cable??? (Fred Hurd)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2013 18:25:34 -0700
> From: Grant Saviers <grants2 at pacbell.net>
> To: towertalk at contesting.com
> Subject: [TowerTalk] Yaesu G2800 SDX limited rotation
> Message-ID: <51BD140E.5060101 at pacbell.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> My G2800 SDX rotator only rotates 350 degrees, the manual says 450 with
> the overlap feature.
>
> When the overlap light comes on the mast rotates another 90 degrees CW
> (right), so that seems about right. In the other direction (CCW, left)
> it stops short for 350 deg total rotation.
>
> I've been to the tower top, loosened the mast and it is free to rotate
> and the coax isn't the problem.
>
> Any thoughts as to what else I should check or look for if I remove it?
> Could it be a controller problem?
>
> Grant KZ1W
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 11:21:38 +0000
> From: "davidrobbins" <davidrobbins at ieee.org>
> To: <towertalk at contesting.com>
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Yaesu G2800 SDX limited rotation
> Message-ID: <002601ce6a83$ac21cf40$04656dc0$@ieee.org>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
>
> If you are using the manual rocker switch then the controller shouldn't be
> the problem, the only thing that should stop it when using that switch are
> the limit switches. You can double check that by using a 12v power supply
> to turn the rotor, that would eliminate the controller.
>
> I would monitor the current to the motor, when it stops if there is still
> current then something is jammed, if there is no current then something is
> opening the limit switch too soon. In either case of course something is
> broke and if you are using the rocker switch or 12v supply then it must be
> in the rotor.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Grant Saviers [mailto:grants2 at pacbell.net]
> Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2013 01:26
> To: towertalk at contesting.com
> Subject: [TowerTalk] Yaesu G2800 SDX limited rotation
>
> My G2800 SDX rotator only rotates 350 degrees, the manual says 450 with the
> overlap feature.
>
> When the overlap light comes on the mast rotates another 90 degrees CW
> (right), so that seems about right. In the other direction (CCW, left) it
> stops short for 350 deg total rotation.
>
> I've been to the tower top, loosened the mast and it is free to rotate and
> the coax isn't the problem.
>
> Any thoughts as to what else I should check or look for if I remove it?
> Could it be a controller problem?
>
> Grant KZ1W
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> TowerTalk mailing list
> TowerTalk at contesting.com
> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 07:51:14 -0500
> From: "Patrick Greenlee" <patrick_g at windstream.net>
> To: <towertalk at contesting.com>
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] How to apply lube to HDX589
> Message-ID: <8FD4CB2AD9874B948B2CE2458CC91472 at PatrickPC>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> reply-type=original
>
>
>
>
> *******************
> If upper sections also have locks, how is the disengagement cable that
> operates the locks managed? Since the tower gets taller, there would be a
> lot of cable that needs to play out as it goes up. How is that kept from
> tangling up?
>
>
>
> Chris
>
> *****************
>
> Chris, I have a rag sailor background and we lived aboard our sailboat for 9
> years. As you can imagine, minding all the running rigging, ground tackle,
> etc. is not a trivial task and is important to get right and can be life
> threatening when fouled up.
>
> A UV resistant very open weave cloth bag to hold the tail of a line (one per
> line) can be real handy. Rain water will not collect in it and permits
> moisture to dry out. You just stuff the long line tail into the bag in FILO
> fashion (First In Last Out) and when withdrawn from the bag it virtually
> always comes out freely with no tangles.
>
> I can think of hands free systems to take up the slack and pay it out
> automatically but they look like they were designed by Rube Goldberg.
>
> Patrick AF5CK
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 13:21:14 -0000
> From: "Doug Turnbull" <turnbull at net1.ie>
> To: "'Patrick Greenlee'" <patrick_g at windstream.net>,
> <towertalk at contesting.com>
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] How to apply lube to HDX589
> Message-ID: <269B72D7B4E54C69BA8F664C71DE2B28 at DOUG1>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Chris,
>
> In my experience there was a single brake at the lowest and therefore
> stationary level. This counterweighted flap merely takes the strain from
> the lowest wire rope and most importantly from the winch. Some of us may
> add additional stops by carefully climbing the tower and inserting steel
> bars on heavy duty rectangular cross arm bracing - obviously such a tower is
> not lowered in a storm.
>
> At this QTH one such tower is stayed as per the manufacturer's
> specification - my additional rest / brake between the second and third
> section are additional. Imagine the problem which might occur with a five
> section tower using strings to release multiple brakes.
>
> Removing the entire weight of the upper sections from the winch and
> lowest rope though makes good sense.
>
> I am not recommending my approach to anyone else. Great care is taken
> when inserting the additional steel bar between the second and third
> sections. The larger tower has three sections which are forty foot long
> and the manufacturer insisted on stays. I did not intend to ever depend on
> the wire rope when stays increase downward loading.
>
> Why a crank up then. It make is much easier to work on the antenna and
> greatly reduces climbing. I have a bad back and it is not wise for me to
> be up top. Fact is these days I use a rigger.
>
> 73 Doug EI2CN
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: TowerTalk [mailto:towertalk-bounces at contesting.com] On Behalf Of
> Patrick Greenlee
> Sent: 16 June 2013 12:51
> To: towertalk at contesting.com
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] How to apply lube to HDX589
>
>
>
>
> *******************
> If upper sections also have locks, how is the disengagement cable that
> operates the locks managed? Since the tower gets taller, there would be a
> lot of cable that needs to play out as it goes up. How is that kept from
> tangling up?
>
>
>
> Chris
>
> *****************
>
> Chris, I have a rag sailor background and we lived aboard our sailboat for 9
>
> years. As you can imagine, minding all the running rigging, ground tackle,
> etc. is not a trivial task and is important to get right and can be life
> threatening when fouled up.
>
> A UV resistant very open weave cloth bag to hold the tail of a line (one per
>
> line) can be real handy. Rain water will not collect in it and permits
> moisture to dry out. You just stuff the long line tail into the bag in FILO
>
> fashion (First In Last Out) and when withdrawn from the bag it virtually
> always comes out freely with no tangles.
>
> I can think of hands free systems to take up the slack and pay it out
> automatically but they look like they were designed by Rube Goldberg.
>
> Patrick AF5CK
>
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> TowerTalk mailing list
> TowerTalk at contesting.com
> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 06:36:22 -0700
> From: "Jim Thomson" <jim.thom at telus.net>
> To: <towertalk at contesting.com>
> Subject: [TowerTalk] How to apply lube to HDX589
> Message-ID: <6A97736177BA41D58175BC99BCBD9855 at JimPC>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2013 17:11:14 -0700
> From: Grant Saviers <grants2 at pacbell.net>
> To: towertalk at contesting.com
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] How to apply lube to HDX589
>
>
> I was concerned that where the cables touch the W
> bracing the lube might detour off, but not so much. I could spray until
> the lube ran down 5 to 10'. Did this for every cable on that face, and
> then I repositioned the boom lift lower, doing each tower side top to
> bottom. A bit of lube foam marked the end of where the lube ran down
> the cables, but it is quite easy to lose track of what is saturated.
>
> ## None of the cables should be touching the W bracing at any time !
>
>
>
>
>
> I've read a bunch of wire rope manufacturers literature, plus the
> infinite loop reflector posts, and became convinced lubricating the
> cables with Prelube 6 is the way to go. Seeing how dry the cables were,
> and the bird crap already stuck on them, reinforced this as the right
> decision for me. I'll do it again in three years or so.
>
> Grant KZ1W
>
> ## I would do it at least once per year..and probably twice per year.
> One of the posters put a link to a url a few days ago...and the
> recommendation in the wire rope industry was that even a bit of pre-lube
> 6-9-11 on a frequent basis is a lot better than a thorough job done infrequently.
> IMO, 3 years is way too infrequent.
>
> Jim VE7RF
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 10:26:37 -0400
> From: "Fred Hurd" <fred.hurd at cox.net>
> To: <towertalk at contesting.com>
> Cc: 'Fred Hurd' <fred.hurd at cox.net>
> Subject: [TowerTalk] FW: When To Replace Tower Cable???
> Message-ID: <000301ce6a9d$8316c3c0$89444b40$@hurd at cox.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
>> From all the Tower Talk responses, I have concluded the following:
>
>
>
> 1. Regular examination of the cable (at least twice a year) is
> mandatory to detect any significant number of loose cable strands or
> significant rusting.
>
> 2. If either is the case, it is time to replace the cable. Rusting
> more likely occurs where water can collect (as underneath the pulley
> wheels).
>
> 3. Lubricating the cable twice a year will greatly extend its useful
> life because the lubricant soaks into the cable and discourages internal
> binding. especially when the cable turns around the pulley wheels.
>
> 4. Pulley wheels do not need to be lubricated if they were sealed at
> the factory, but they need to be regularly inspected for any binding or
> wear.
>
> 5. Greasing the crank-up moving parts on a regular basis helps keep
> the tower raising run smoothly and puts less stress on the cables.
>
> 6. With regular maintenance/inspection and depending on location, the
> cable can last many years.
>
>
>
> Any additions, corrections, or disagreements?
>
>
>
> Fred Hurd (W4PKU)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> From: Fred Hurd [mailto:fred.hurd at cox.net]
> Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2013 7:02 AM
> To: 'towertalk at contesting.com'; 'grants2 at pacbell.net'
> Subject: When To Replace Tower Cable???
>
>
>
> This seems to be a constant question for those of us who have crank-up
> towers. How can you tell when it is time to replace the cable? Some say that
> it's too late when rust appears as the cables weaken from the inside out.
> Is that true? Others say if you lubricate the cable twice a year it will
> last forever? Is that true? Does anyone know the truth?
>
>
>
> Fred Hurd (W4PKU)
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Subject: Digest Footer
>
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> TowerTalk mailing list
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>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of TowerTalk Digest, Vol 126, Issue 38
> ******************************************
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