[TowerTalk] Grounding HDX-555

Patrick Greenlee patrick_g at windstream.net
Sun May 5 16:41:40 EDT 2013


Gene, I didn't think the 6 inch burial related to squeezing a little more 
depth out of the rod but was supposed to confer some advantage.  What 
advantage was not mentioned, just info from the tower mfg showing the 6 inch 
burial as part of the grounding system along with clamps or bolts to connect 
the other end of the ground wire to the tower leg (depending on formed or 
tube leg.)  Hence my query.  Why would they want you to bury the connection?

I share your concern for burying a COTS ground clamp.  It just doesn't seem 
like a good idea. Thus the query.

I wonder if you wrapped a couple turns of your ground wire around the ground 
rod and soldered it on if that wouldn't do as well as the Cadweld method, 
not as much fun but but I think maybe as effective.  Of course not everyone 
has a torch and skill to solder big heavy heat sinky sorts of things so 
Cadweld brings welding to the masses.  It is essentially a thermite reaction 
with an oxide of copper replacing the rust (iron oxide) typically used in 
thermite welding.  I haven't tried oxy-acetylene welding with copper "filler 
rod" but don't see why it would be inferior to Cadweld for folks with a 
torch and know how.

I have been putting a few ground rods in where a sledge hammer wasn't making 
much progress by using a Harbor Freight Demolition hammer.  I have also 
welded stainless steel tabs to spots on the side of the rod after grinding 
off some copper.  In marine electronic applications stainless steel "tabs" 
and ring terminals to connect the copper wire to the tabs, when generously 
covered with silicon rubber (RTV) lasted well in the damp salty shipboard 
environment. I should expect as good or better results in moist residential 
venues.

If it turns out there is a real advantage (whatever it might be) to burying 
the top of the rod 6 inches I could weld a small SS tab near the top of the 
rod and use a SS machine screw to fasten the wire with a ring terminal and 
then "form up" around the top couple inches of rod and fill the form with 
epoxy selected for minimum vapor penetration. A small hand modified paper 
cup would make a good form.  I have seen telephone repairmen put a phone 
wire splice in a small baggie (like a sandwich bag) and pour in epoxy, 
holding the assy just so to keep the splice near the center of the glob of 
epoxy till the epoxy started to cure.

Meanwhile as we await enlightenment regarding "bury the clamp 6 inches" I 
will be welding SS tabs near the tops of ground rods and using SS machine 
screws to fasten the terminal with ground wire and leaving the connection a 
few inches above grade. I will monitor the condition of the connection and 
if it looks necessary I will clean up the connection, refasten, and 
weatherproof with a good coat of GE RTV or other weather proofer. In the 
past I tried anti-oxidation pastes on the copper wire and the terminal prior 
to crimping and I think soldering the terminal is better than crimping with 
or without using the anti-oxidation paste.

Patrick AF5CK



-----Original Message----- 
From: Gene Smar
Sent: Sunday, May 05, 2013 2:11 PM
To: Patrick Greenlee ; TOWERTALK at contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Grounding HDX-555

Patrick:

     I would not bury a mechanical ground clamp.  It can't easily be checked
and retightened each year.  I would use a longer ground rod and leave six
inches or so above ground and apply the clamp there.  A welded connection
such as Cadweld can be buried and forgotten.  My 132 feet or so of #2 solid
ground wire is attached to 12 copper ground rods with that method.


73 de
Gene Smar  AD3F


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Patrick Greenlee" <patrick_g at windstream.net>
To: <TOWERTALK at contesting.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 05, 2013 2:59 PM
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Grounding HDX-555


> While on the grounding topic... why do some sources recommend burying the 
> wire clamp to copper ground rod connection a minimum of 6 inches?
>
> Patrick AF5CK
>
> -----Original Message----- 
> From: Alan NV8A
> Sent: Sunday, May 05, 2013 1:39 PM
> To: TOWERTALK at contesting.com
> Cc: Brad Hyde
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Grounding HDX-555
>
> On 05/05/13 12:19 pm, Brad Hyde wrote:
>
>> I am in the process of erecting an HDX-555.  I have the hole dug and most 
>> of the rebar cage built.  My question is about the best method of 
>> grounding.  Should I place a copper cable at the bottom of the hole and 
>> then attach it to the tower?  This method would have the cable immersed 
>> in the concrete which makes me wonder about that much heat going into the 
>> concrete if lightning hits, even if it is just on the edge of the 
>> concrete.  The other method I am thinking of would be three ground rods 
>> placed around the tower and connected together and to the tower with 
>> copper strap and/or very heavy copper wire.  Just looking for input from 
>> the collective knowledge of this group as I am in a lightning prone area 
>> in west Texas.  Thanks.
>
> I have #4 copper connected to each leg of my HDX-555 (with
> stainless-steel shims as separators to avoid corrosion), and each
> running to an 8ft. copper-clad ground rod about 10ft. away.
>
> 73
>
> Alan NV8A
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