[TowerTalk] heavily rusted anchor bolt/nut

Roger (K8RI) on TT K8RI-on-TowerTalk at tm.net
Mon Oct 7 15:08:31 EDT 2013


On 10/7/2013 2:42 PM, Nick Pair wrote:
> Hey Doug you might try this method that I have used on anchor bolts 1 inch to 2.5 in diameter. It works on nuts that are rusted and nuts that are overly galvanized on galvanized bolts without damaging the hot dip galvanizing.
> Just round up 2 heavy sledge hammers (6 pounds or more)

12 pounders work well although you don't often see them any more. I have 
a newish 10# and a very old 12 pounder from the farm.  I had forgotten 
this approach which is surprisingly effective as I haven't worked with 
large bolts in a very long time.  This does two things. It breaks the 
rust and enlarges/stretches the nut, so you now have a larger (loose 
fitting) nut and less rust.  The backing hammer serves two purposes. The 
impact is reflected back giving a lesser impact on the backing side and 
by equalizing the impact helps to prevent damage to the bolt. (depending 
on the accuracy of your swing)<:-))  If you have different size hammers, 
use the larger for the backing

I wouldn't advise this approach on small bolts, unless the person really 
knows what they are doing.  You can easily trash a 1/2" bolt.

73

Roger (K8RI)

> and hold one of them on the flat on one side of the nut and smack the opposing flat half a dozen times. Move to the next opposing flats and repeat. Try your wrench after the 6 flats have been struck. After a few go arounds the rust or what ever will be displaced and the nut will move. If the nut stops moving repeat process till free. This method will not work without backing hammer opposing striking hammer.
> Hope this helps, Nick WB7PEK
> P.S. This also works well on the tapered studs on ball joints on your Chevys!
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