[TowerTalk] Phillystran Top Guys

[Roger (K8RI) on TT]

On 10/10/2013 8:44 PM, Keith Hanson wrote:
> I am in the process of putting up a 100' stick of Rohn 45G.  Originally I planned on standard Rohn guying - 3/16" for the bottom two guys and 1/4" for the top - for Rev G.  Does anyone have experience in leaving steel for the bottom two guys and Phyllystran on the top?  How about running 30' of Phyllystran at the top end of each top guy - like an extended insulator?  I am trying to minimize interaction with the various wire antennas I'll hang from the tower and keep costs somewhat under control.  I'll have a 3el/40M option SteppIr for openers, but may change that at some point.  Obviously I am going to play with a bunch of wire -  dipoles,  inverted Ls, slopers, etc.

I have a 100' 45G guyed at 3 levels using Phillystran.
I used about 6 to 10' of EHS at the anchor points to protect the guys 
from fire and people.  Even with the large array and mast extension the 
tower was rock solid even on windy days.

http://www.rogerhalstead.com/ham_files/tower.htm

> On a different note, another ham, WB9EDL, and I delivered some used 45G sections to the Rohn galvanizing facility today - they are called AZZ Galvanizing in Peoria.  The cost should run approximately $45 per galvanized 45G section.  I recently took down 90' of 25G that had been up for 34 years.  It was a used tower when I purchased if from a local ham and I hauled over to Rohn to be regalvanized when I bought it.  The tower was in great shape when I took it down a month ago,  just beginning to show some brown staining in places; the leg interiors were still shiny bright.  Re-galvanizing is an inexpensive way to rejuvenate old steel towers.  AZZ is also redoing my guy brackets, equalizer plates, stand-offs, etc, basically anything except threaded goods - bolts, nuts, turnbuckles, etc.
> As long as I am posting - I recently helped put up 50' of 45G for another local ham, AB9M.  We had to spend quite a bit of time cleaning excess galvanizing from new tower sections - the inside of the leg joints.

 From the ROHN  manual:
Don't drill out the bolt holes. Use a taper punch, the same one for 
aligning sections will do.

Drive the punch in to open the hole until the bolts fit.  Don't screw 
them in.

73

Roger (K8RI)