[TowerTalk] H-beam for elevated guy

Roger (K8RI) on TT K8RI-on-TowerTalk at tm.net
Wed Feb 12 14:45:54 EST 2014


On 2/12/2014 10:00 AM, K7LXC at aol.com wrote:
> Howdy --
>   
>      I'm trying to get an idea of a good size for a 6'  elevated guy anchor
> (with 4 feet in the ground and it'll have a backstay). It's  for 100' of
> 45G. I was thinking of using an 8" flange length. That might be  enough since
> it'll be backguyed but since I'm not an engineer, I was looking for  some
> feedback on this. TIA.

37
Hi Steve,

 From my web site : "*Each guy anchor is a 16-foot long 5-inch diameter 
steel pipe which weighs about 300#. Those pipes set down into the 
crushed rock base on top of which is poured the two yards of concrete. 
The top of the concrete form is roughly two feet below the surface.
Pinned in place on top of the concrete and welded to the 5 inch pipe is 
a brace made of heavy 4 inch I-beam and 5 inch channel, three feet high 
and with a three foot base. Here, I managed to get a lot of practice 
welding. In particular my vertical welding improved drastically."

So mine are about a foot or so, deeper and in roughly 2.4 yards of 
concrete.  With steel, including braces, I figure each guy anchor weighs 
in the neighborhood of 17,000#

A lot depends on the soil. 2 of those elevated anchors look like they 
did when I installed them.  The one to the NW has tilted ever so slowly 
and the top is now close to 10" out of vertical after 12 years (give or 
take).

These are not back guyed and because of the soil I had to build 
forms.There was no "undisturbed earth" available.  Back guys to the S 
and NW would have been in the neighbor's yards.  Pulling those forms was 
something else. http://www.rogerhalstead.com/ham_files/tower17.htm
http://www.rogerhalstead.com/ham_files/tower18.htm
Unfortunately I don't find any photos of the actual, finished posts or 
pulling operation. We just had to yank the walls out which by the time 
the concrete had cured were pretty flimsy due to ground moisture/water.
If I had to do it again, I'd use 2 X 4s  to fit the outside, but not 
fastened to the walls. When finished, I'd pull the walls and leave the 2 
X 4s instead of having to pull the whole form in one piece.  They really 
lost their "structural integrity" anyway. Remembering that wood forms 
are pretty much disposable.

73

Roger (K8RI)
*
>   
> Cheers,
> Steve     K7LXC
>   
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