[TowerTalk] Tack welding rebar

K7LXC at aol.com K7LXC at aol.com
Sun Jan 5 14:50:32 EST 2014

>  The discussion did raise some questions for this novice  tower 
installer. Hoping to put in a base this spring for a UST TX-472 (4x4x7  cage 
...probably weighs about 250 - 300 lbs). 
>  1. If the cage is constructed near (not in) the  hole, what's the best 
way to rig it for lowering it in with a backhoe? Seems to  me that just tying 
some lift straps to the top horizontals at the four corners  might pull the 
cage out of shape or pull the horizontals off, particularly if  wire-tied 
vs welded. 
    If you've done a decent job and put in the 4  X-braces, it'll shift a 
little bit but it'll keep its shape. It'll even be  strong enough to stand on.
>  2. There's another rebar cage fabricator further north  that has 
automated machinery for cutting and bending. Would it be feasible to  have them 
just cut and bend the pieces, toss them in my pickup truck and  construct the 
cage on-site? Reason I ask is I'm not sure if building a cage  requires 
measuring and cutting as you go to deal with tolerances. 
    YES! Have them cut it. It'll make the job  MUCH easier. 

>  3. What's the proper way to electrically bond the tower  anchor bolts to 
the cage to get a good Ufer ground? The anchor bolts are  galvanized. 
    Tying everything up is sufficient. 
>  4. Not really a question, but it's annoying that UST requires a  7 ft 
deep cage. From what I understand, rebar stock typically comes in 20 ft  
lengths. If the depth was 6 ft 8 inch, you could get 3 vertical pieces out of  
that 20 ft stock. Perhaps a practical reason for asking about required rebar 
lap  splice overlap if you have to extend a length. 
    Refer to question 2. Get everything cut and bent to  shape and you 
won't have to worry about this. Also have them put in the 8 pieces  of rebar for 
the X's.
Cheers & GL,
Steve     K7LXC
Professional tower services for amateurs

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