[TowerTalk] glueing PVC

[Roger (K8RI) on TT]

On 5/12/2014 3:44 PM, r miles wrote:
>
> If you're not familiar with the process ASK for help. You glue & put 
> together PVC you have 10 seconds to change your mind.

You must be talking about pipe, because with the grey PVC conduit, you 
only get one chance to put together and a couple seconds to twist a few 
degrees.  Once the section bottoms out, you are unlikely to ever get it 
apart

> It locks that fast. I've done lots of joints but I ALWAYS  dry fit to 
> be sure I've cut the tubing the proper length.

With larger than 2" I've never been able to get dry pieces to go all the 
way together.  That's why with less than 80' or so, I just lube the 
ends, GREASE,  and slide them together.  If using Vaseline you can clean 
it off and then use the PVC solvent.  It's a solvent with
some PVC dissolved in it. Being a solvent is why it sets so fast. If you 
are generous with the application, put on fast and put together fast, 
you may gain a few seconds tine for adjusting.    The two pieces melt 
together and it's FAST!

> You lose 1/2 '' inside every joint. When I need ells & elbows I 

With 2" and larger conduit, it's a lot more than that.
I'd have to go measure, but IIRC it's about equal to the diameter of the 
pipe

> mark  a line on both pieces so I can align them correctly. You only 
> have a very few  seconds to align.  I don't bother with the purple primer.

Primer was for pipe, not conduit. And if inspected for code, may have 
required it. It did here. As far back as I can remember The gray conduit 
has only used a clear glue/solvent  Compared to it the blue cleaner and 
orange glue for pipe is slow and that's RELATIVELY slow as in gaining a 
couple more seconds.  The purple cleaner was good insurance, but not 
necessary (unless by code).  I had one connection that didn't show the 
purple around the connection.  The inspector was going to flag it, but 
as it was visible on all other connections, he said he'd let it slide.

  IF ilke RTV, it suffers fron short shelf life, put the top back on 
tight and place the can/tube in a mason jar. or Tupperware container.  I 
have Silastic RTV (TM) that is still good after well over 20 years.  
Same thing works with liquid tape.Manufacturers didn't life check for 
that so they give a CYA of, we didn't check that long so can not assure 
the useability after non conforming storage. I Know. I worked for one of 
those companies. Besides, If you can successfully store a product with a 
3 year shelf life for over 20 years, what's it do to sales.


This is true for the bathtub calk, window calk, etc and particularly the 
stuff that has the acetic acid smell.  It uses the moisture in the air 
as a catalyst. sealing it in moisture proof containers gives almost 
indefinite shelf life.

> The new all purpose glue doesn't require it.  I plumbed my new house 
> 14 yr.s ago. Both water & waste. Only problem with the 3'' & 4'' is 
> the weight handling vs. the smaller PVC when working with it. It's 
> just bigger & takes more planning.
>
> There's an old carpenters axium: measure TWICE & cut ONCE. I always 
> feel the ends. They can have no burrs. Gently sand rough spots. For 1 
> 1/2'' PVC or smaller a  $5  PVC cutting sissors makes life easier.

It may be crude but I just use a hack saw, sanding block and knife for 
deburing.  sand only on the corner of the cut.  Conduit may be faster, 
but I've found it to be easier to work with.

The pipe has inexpensive couplings which makes mistakes easy to fix.  
The couplings for conduit with 1/4" to 3/8" wall thickness are massive 
so fixing mistakes there takes more work and money
73

Roger (K8RI)

>
> GL
>
> K9IL
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