[TowerTalk] FW: Rotor control cable connectors
Patrick Greenlee
patrick_g at windstream.net
Tue May 20 11:46:10 EDT 2014
Amen, MIke. It would be good to have a third hand when up a tower. With
proper climbing gear a lanyard should hold you securely to free up your
hands. It would be good to position the connector such that you can wrap
your arm around a tower component and still use the hand on that arm to
hold onto one side of the connector pair. I never pry the trailer type
connectors apart as I have sufficient grip to pull and wiggle to get
them apart one piece in each hand. In due time I may end up using
pliers (probably Vice Grips) to hold onto the halves.) I tried several
brick and mortar sources but never found 8 pin trailer type connectors.
Two each 4 pin git 'er done and are likely easier to put together and
pull apart.
I am trying to set up my three towers and Hy-Gain Hy-Tower vertical such
that I NEVER have to climb them or use a ladder to work with them.
Over the years tower climbing has begun to be less fun.
73,
Patrick NJ5G
On 5/19/2014 5:59 PM, Mike wrote:
> Whether you use 4, 6 or 8 pin trailer hitch type connectors, make sure you
> are able to engage and more importantly, disconnect the mated connectors
> with your hand. I've used the 4, 6 and 8 pin trailer hitch connectors sold
> at auto parts store and found I had to use a screw driver to separate the
> connectors when fully mated. A PITA when on top of the tower, etc.
>
> 73,
> Mike, K4GMH
>
>
> On Mon, May 19, 2014 at 4:55 PM, Tom_N2SR via TowerTalk <
> towertalk at contesting.com> wrote:
>
>> The Wireman has what you are looking for. 8 pole molded male and female
>> disconnect.
>>
>>
>> https://www.thewireman.com/prodpix6.html
>>
>> I do not own The Wireman, nor do I work for them, therefore I have no
>> interest. Just passing on information.
>>
>>
>> Tom, N2SR
>>
>>
>>
>> On Monday, May 19, 2014 11:01 AM, Patrick Greenlee <
>> patrick_g at windstream.net> wrote:
>>
>> Matt, That is certainly a good pro way to handle the problem (older
>> persons substitute word for "issue.") I am doing essentially the same
>> thing at the terminal strip, exiting that terminal strip area with a
>> made up cable (separate insulated wires with a couple layers of shrink
>> over them and plenty of silicon rubber (RTV) inside over the terminal
>> strip. Nicee and weather proof. Where you went with a J-box and
>> internal terminal strip, I wnet with a pair of 4 pin polarized "flat 4"
>> trailer connectors.; With a few wraps of tape and some RTV and you are
>> weatherproof. Coax seal is even easier to put on and take off and would
>> work good.as well.
>>
>> Comparing the two approaches is like arguing whether it is 50 cents or a
>> half dollar. With a note paper inside the J-box as a reminder of what
>> color wire goes to which number terminal (unless of course the other
>> cable is same colors) and you are in business. About the only advantage
>> I could claim is a little cost and the ability to connect and disconnect
>> in the dark without needing a third or fourth hand and a light. I do
>> not intend to be plugging and unplugging in the dark and the savings
>> won't buy much these days.
>>
>> 73,
>>
>> Patrick NJ5G
>> On 5/18/2014 10:53 PM, Matt wrote:
>>> Hi Patrick,
>>>
>>> Just another take on the chronic problem with the older terminal block
>>> design that you mention... My solution was to replace the terminal
>> strip
>>> with a blank-off plate through which I passed a short whip that extends
>> the
>>> rotor wiring out to a weatherproof external J-box which houses the
>> terminal
>>> strip. I use small compression nuts that are similar to seal-tight
>>> connectors at the blank-off plate and the J-box. J box is mounted to
>> one
>>> of the tower legs which also makes accessing the terminal strip a lot
>>> easier.
>>>
>>> Matt
>>> KM5VI
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I was looking for connectors to add to older HY-Gain rotors using 8
>> wires.
>>> My new production unit came with connectors but the older units use an 8
>>> position terminal strip that is not so wonderfully weather proofed. So
>> you
>>> get your unit refurbed or it is still working fine but still has the old
>>> terminal strip... not satisfactory...
>>>
>>> So I'm searching Mouser, Digi Key etc and then... and then... the little
>>> over my head light came on, dimly but noticeably illuminated.
>>> Flat 4 pin trailer connectors for hooking up the lights on a trailer to
>> be
>>> towed. Need 8 pins. Connector has 4 pins. One side is 3 males and a
>> female
>>> and the mating connector is 3 female pins and a male. Take one of each
>> male
>>> and female and using the supplied pigtails put on ring terminals and
>> install
>>> the pair of flat connectors to the terminal strip. Flood the terminal
>> strip
>>> with Silicon rubber (RTV) or your favorite weather proofer and put on the
>>> cover. Another pair of connectors terminates your cable run at the
>> rotator
>>> end.
>>>
>>> This gives you polarized connector action. You can't plug the cable run
>> from
>>> the controller into the wrong connectors at the rotator. The trailer type
>>> flat 4 pin connectors are made to be exposed to the elements in their
>> normal
>>> application. I like belt and suspender type weather proofing so... Wrap
>>> the connectors with tape or coax seal or whatever you prefer to boost the
>>> weather resistance if you are worried that these inexpensive connectors
>>> could do a good job. Electrical tape and a little RTV does a marvelous
>> job
>>> and is easy enough to remove if the need arises.
>>>
>>> I kinow, I know, no material certs, no mil-spec, NIH, too inexpensive to
>> be
>>> good etc etc...
>>>
>>> 73,
>>>
>>> Patrick NJ5G
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