[TowerTalk] Connectorizing rotator cables

Fri Nov 7 18:56:40 EST 2014

On 11/6/2014 10:46 AM, Kelly Taylor wrote:

I've repaired a number of the Ham series rotators.  Nearly all had bad 
terminal strips.  Some had been stored outside when not in use and some 
had the weight of the rotator cable suspended from the terminal strip.  
I put a half knot in the cable and tape it to the tower so the poor 
little terminal strip only has to pass electrons. I have used the 
standard connector kit sold by hy-gain for the Tail Twister.

HOWEVER when replacing that terminal strip you have to go all the way 
back to the ends of the runs where they are connected.  The manuals I 
have show where each wire comes out to the terminal strip.  That's 
helpful but, they do not always use the same color wire from terminal 
strip connection.  At least I've never found one with the wrong 
connection, just different color wires.

Make a copy of the schematic that shows the connections and terminal 
strip. On the copy, write the colors down!  extend the lines on the 
schematic a bit and enter the new connector pin numbers. (they are 
embossed in the plastic.)   It makes thins simpler for those who come 
later to use the same pin numbers, although I do like the color code.  
It's what I use when connecting the rotator cable to the terminal strip 
while remembering to keep the two larger wires separate.

With the kit, just make sure the ends of the wires are parallel. solder 
the pins on the cable.(get them on the proper ends)   Once the male and 
female connectors are soldered in place, use your schematic and 
carefully insert the pins in the proper hole. They are extremely 
difficult to remove so get it right the first time. (  NOTE the brass 
sleeve - ink cartridge on most pens is just the right size to use for a 
pin removal tool) Hy-gain did not conveniently follow the color code.  
but your schematic does have all the colors and pin numbers listed so 
you know what comes out the other end.

The connectors (in all the kits I've used) were gold plated (don't 
corrode), BUT the spring clips that hold them in place will rust. they 
are thin so it wouldn't take long.  I thoroughly flood the connector 
inside with silicone grease. (after the pins are inserted and checked)  
DC-4 and 5 compounds work just fine.  Get the silicone grease at the 
auto store.  Computer and electronics stores usually charge an arm and a 
leg for a tiny packet.  I used to purchase a 10 oz tube for a buck.

I do not like the usual trailer hitch connector replacement, but the mid 
size Winchester connectors used by the military work great. Even better 
than the Hy-gain connectors.  They come in a variety of sizes and are 
CHEAP as long as you purchase surplus or at a swap.

73

Roger (K8RI)

> I will admit I was suckered into the idea of using a connector on my Ham-x
> style rotator.
>
> I've changed the rotator, let's see, want to make sure I don't lose count
> here, ummmmmm, ZERO times in almost 10 years.
>
> Next time, no connectors. Nothing is as impervious as an unbroken run of
> cable. I'm also not convinced that undoing eight lugs on a terminal strip is
> any harder than undoing the weatherproofing on the connector!
>
> 73, kelly
> ve4xt
>
>
> On 11/6/14 11:33 AM, "Don" <w7wll at arrl.net> wrote:
>
>> Agree on the use of quality trailer connectors.
>>
>> Here on the beach one set for a T2X served faithfully for 11 years in a
>> harsh salt air and wet environment. The salt air eventually got to it but it
>> took 11 years.  Did not seal where the wires enter the rear of the block and
>> this is where the corrosion came from. My mistake. Will replace it with
>> another trailer connector set - but this time will further cover the set
>> with sleeving and seal the sleeving on the cable. My set is about 3 feet
>> from the rotator up on the tower. Have a similar connector on the van and
>> work trailer and they have been there since 2006, but I keep the contacts
>> coated with CorrosionBlock and on these I had sealed where the wires enter
>> the rubber block back with the 3M liquid seal. Keep it simple and properly
>> sealed.
>>
>> Don W7WLL
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Patrick Greenlee
>> Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2014 4:57 AM
>> To: towertalk at contesting.com
>> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] TowerTalk Digest, Vol 143, Issue 10
>>
>> This sort of need for a M/F connector pair with good weatherproof
>> characteristics has been threshed out here a lot not that long ago.  Many
>> folks, myself included, use the automotive trailer connectors (4 pin).  They
>> are not expensive and work well.  I use them for my 8 conductor rotator
>> control cables. By putting a male and a female on each end to be joined you
>> have a goof proof polarized weatherproof connection.  Some of us truly anal
>> types add tape, coax seal and or whatever to further weatherproof the
>> connections.
>>
>> These connectors are available at trailer supply places, autoparts stores,
>> Walmart (RV section) and so forth.
>>
>> 73,
>>
>> Patrick NJ5G
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Larry Stowell
>> Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2014 6:02 AM
>> To: towertalk at contesting.com
>> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] TowerTalk Digest, Vol 143, Issue 10
>>
>>
>> Bill.
>> I had one of the first four element steppir and they originally
>> used a section of PVC pipe with two and caps and a slot in the bottom
>> part of the two. The original stepper motors had pigtails and you terminated
>> all of these wires into two nylon terminal strips and connected the matching
>> wires from the control cable these wires and terminal strip were placed
>> inside
>> the PVC pipe. The pipe was attached to the boom via a stainless strap clamp.
>> Didn't move the ends and made sure the slot was facing down. The antenna
>> was up almost 7 years(until lightning got it) they sent a little supply of
>> dielectric grease and the connections were good when the antenna came down.
>> I used a variation of this method at the base of a 50 foot tower for the
>> rotor line.
>> I had the splice new cable and I simply took a short length of PVC and one
>> cap mounted it with the cap up and strapped it to the leg of the tower and
>> put the splice up in the tube and that was out there for several years
>> with no problems. Depending on the size of the connectors will determine
>> the diameter of the PVC pipe.
>>
>> 73
>> Larry K1ZW
>>
>> Message: 1
>> Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2014 12:37:41 -0800
>> From: Bill Straw via TowerTalk <towertalk at contesting.com>
>> To: "towertalk at contesting.com" <towertalk at contesting.com>
>> Subject: [TowerTalk] Rotor cable / Steppir cable connectors
>> Message-ID:
>> <1415219861.25659.YahooMailNeo at web141501.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>>
>> I'm spending way too much time trying to find what I need, time to ask...
>>
>> I need to be able to break apart my rotor cable, so I need a
>> weatherproof M/F set for 8 conductor 18 AWG.
>>
>> Also I need to break apart the Steppir control cable, 12 conductor + shield
>> 22 AWG.
>>
>> These disconnects are at the top of the tower so a weatherproof M/F set
>> is very important.
>>
>> 73, Bill KO7SS
>>
>>
>>
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-- 

73

Roger (K8RI)