[TowerTalk] Grounding/Bonding Lessons Learned
Roger (K8RI) on TT
K8RI-on-TowerTalk at tm.net
Fri Apr 3 11:34:36 EDT 2015
Good ol' dirt and particularly clay works as good as the high priced
spread. We've even used dry sand successfully.
The igniter charge is a fine powder packed into the cap. A bump, drop,
etc will knock it loose. One of the reasons I purchased a carton at a
time is they were pretty well protected, but still require careful handling.
I've only had two out of several cartons that were a problem. Alternate
methods of ignition worked well. I'd think goof old 4350 would work as
an igniter and is safe to handle, but have never tried powder.
Eyes and hands are vulnerable when using alternate methods of ignition,
so be careful
73
Roger (K8RI)
On 4/2/2015 6:54 PM, Mike via TowerTalk wrote:
>
> This past fall...I put in 18 ground rods when updating my grounding system
> and used the cad welds..I purchased them from K7FP along with a really nice
> entrance panel...I had a problem igniting a few of them ...he sent me
> replacement charges and they worked fine...
>
> The ones I had a problem with...I didn't want to try black powder..or
> Pyrodex (both RS and select)...of which I have for my rifles etc...I took out
> some Winchester 571 for grins and it worked on one but the others not ...I
> did not try any other smokeless powder...The only others I had were red and
> blue dot.......and also had an issue with burn thru ...I then used stuff
> called babbit rite and stuffed it around the bottom of the ceramic tube and
> the rubber...not another problem...You can use duct seal or stuff the
> electric company uses to seal wires to entrance panels...used to call it dumb
> dumb...not sure the real name...but use something to seal the rubber to the
> rod and ceramic and eliminate that issue.
>
> I think Chris talked to his supplier and said that there had been some
> issues with ignition of some charges in the past...The correct thing to do
> would be to separate the powders...I believe that during shipping that they get
> mixed with vibration etc. causing issues...but who am I to say...I have a
> few more to ignite this spring...if it ever gets here....all the snow isn't
> gone yet and lake Erie is still full of ice...
>
> The one shots are the only way to go...I am impressed with the way the
> connections look after knocking off the ceramic body...they will be good till
> long after I am under the dirt or wherever the wife puts me!
>
> Good luck and have fun!
>
> 73,
>
> Mike W2GR
> ---------------------
>
>
> In a message dated 3/31/2015 4:11:27 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> akozak at hourglass.com writes:
>
> For future reference.....does smokeless powder work as well for this?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: TowerTalk [mailto:towertalk-bounces at contesting.com] On Behalf Of
> Patrick Greenlee
> Sent: Tuesday, March 31, 2015 9:18 AM
> To: towertalk at contesting.com
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] [Bulk] Re: Grounding/Bonding Lessons Learned
>
> Yes BUT... sulfur is optional, potassium nitrate isn't in black powder.
>
> Patrick NJ5G
>
> On 3/30/2015 9:03 PM, Roger (K8RI) on TT wrote:
>> From a corrosive standpoint, depending on the metal, the potassium
>> nitrate is far more corrosive than sulfur.
>>
>>
>> 73
>>
>> Roger (K8RI)
>>
>>
>>
>> On 3/30/2015 4:43 PM, Grant Saviers wrote:
>>> A word of caution - take the can label literally, since BP sold in
>>> the USA is legal to possess ONLY for use in BP firearms. Any other
>>> use requires an ATF Explosives User Permit, and you don't want to go
>>> there, with required regular inspections of your record keeping and a
>>> federally approved storage magazine. I believe Pyrodex (no sulfur to
>>> corrode the firearm) is subject to the same regulations.
>>>
>>> see the ATF open letter
>>>
>>> https://www.atf.gov/sites/default/files/assets/Explosives/Industry/op
>>> en-letter-black-powder.pdf
>>>
>>>
>>> Grant KZ1W
>>>
>>> On 3/30/2015 7:52 AM, Keith Dutson wrote:
>>>> Can says black powder for black powder firearms., imported from
>>>> Brazil to Arlington, Texas. I could find no reference to Pyrodex.
>>>> 4f is used in the flash pan, not the muzzle. I am sure it is the
>>>> real thing based on instant ignition and burn time.
>>>>
>>>> 73, Keith NM5G
>>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: TowerTalk [mailto:towertalk-bounces at contesting.com] On Behalf
>>>> Of Patrick Greenlee
>>>> Sent: Monday, March 30, 2015 6:57 AM
>>>> To: towertalk at contesting.com
>>>> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Grounding/Bonding Lessons Learned
>>>>
>>>> Cool, clever substitute. Pyrodex or the real thing? I still have
>>>> part of a one pound can of real 4F.
>>>>
>>>> On 3/29/2015 8:37 PM, Keith Dutson wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Patrick NJ5G
>>>>> Thanks for the great tip. I will be doing 12 this summer, and just
>>>>> happen to have a pound of Elephant FFFFg.
>>>>>
>>>>> 73, Keith NM5G
>>>>>
>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>> From: TowerTalk [mailto:towertalk-bounces at contesting.com] On Behalf
>>>>> Of RMorris
>>>>> Sent: Sunday, March 29, 2015 12:17 PM
>>>>> Cc: Towertalk Reflector
>>>>> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Grounding/Bonding Lessons Learned
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On Mar 29, 2015, at 10:09 AM, Mike Fahmie via TowerTalk wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> I had a similar problem igniting a Cadweld that had lost its
>>>>>> ignition
>>>>> powder.
>>>>>
>>>>> Needing to do 99, on a damp day, a little 2F black powder from the
>>>>> flintlock shooting kit got them to work every time.
>
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--
73
Roger (K8RI)
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