[TowerTalk] Shorty Forty Hose Clamp thread

[Les Kalmus]

In other words, the inner tube is clamped by the screw head through to 
the far wall of the outer tube by the nylock nut which is on the 
exterior of the outer tube.
The screw head is not clamping the outer tube at all but rests on the 
inner tube. Correct?
Why would this be a better method than simply drilling through both 
tubes and running a machine screw all the way through and using a nylock 
nut which is a more common way to do it?

Les W2LK

On 8/13/2015 10:35 AM, Stan Stockton wrote:
> It's all the way through.  Not countersunk but counter bored.  Head of socket head screw is cleared to bottom out on OD of inner tube.  OD of inner tube is pinched very securely to ID of outer tubing.
>
> Stan
>
> Sent from Stan's IPhone
>
>
>
>> On Aug 13, 2015, at 9:20 AM, Jim Thomson <jim.thom at telus.net> wrote:
>>
>> ##  I understand counter bore.... but how can you do a counter bore, when the tubing thickness is paper thin to begin with... like .058 wall etc?
>>
>> Jim  VE7RF
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message----- From: Stan Stockton
>> Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2015 6:53 AM
>> To: Jim Thomson
>> Cc: <towertalk at contesting.com>
>> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Shorty Forty Hose Clamp thread
>>
>> After about 40 years of making my own antennas I learned something a few years ago when faced with assembling 65 tribanders (520 elements) we made for WRTC2014.
>>
>> I was introduced to the element joint attachment method I am told is used by Optibeam.  I was skeptical when I heard the verbal description, having settled on pop rivets after every other conceivable method about 20 years ago.
>>
>> I made one element with pop rivets and another with a single stainless steel socket head cap screw with a counterbore (head clearance on socket head screw) for one wall of the larger diameter tubing for each joint, then grabbed each one in the center and violently shook them back and forth.  The one with SHCS joints felt like one solid piece of tubing as compared to the pop riveted one.
>>
>> It is so easy and so solid, I will never mess with pop rivets again.
>>
>> A V block fixture with stops, drill press and some of these bits along with straight bits for the smaller diameter tube drilling are all that is needed.
>>
>> http://www.wttool.com/index/page/category/category_id/14686/
>>
>> make the job easy in comparison to many methods.  The counterbore is important.  Use stainless nylock nuts.
>>
>> YMMV but I'm sold on it.
>>
>> 73...Stan, K5GO
>>
>> Sent from Stan's IPhone
>>
>>
>>
>>> On Aug 13, 2015, at 7:42 AM, Jim Thomson <jim.thom at telus.net> wrote:
>>>
>>> The rest of the yagi should be using  3 x rivets
>>> at each joint.
>>>
>>> Jim  VE7RF
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