[TowerTalk] Shorty Forty Hose Clamp thread

[Jim Lux]

On 8/13/15 8:36 AM, john at kk9a.com wrote:
> There is really no need to c'bore anything.  I had a homebrew 55 foot
> freestanding vertical in Aruba and the larger sections make clanking noise
> in the constant wind.  So I drilled a 1/4 " hole though each joint. I then
> took it apart and drilled a larger hole though one wall of the outer tube,
> large enough to clear for the head of a socket head cap screw. So the bolt
> does not squeeze the outer tube, it just forces the inner tube to one
> wall. The head of the screw is still visible and easy to tighten. I
> suppose with a large enough clearance hole you could even use a hex bolt.
> This stopped the rattling and it worked well.
>

I think the whole difference in clamp designs boils down to "convenience 
of manufacturing" and "convenience/practicality of disassembly and/or 
adjustment"

For "home brew", it's pretty hard to get simpler than "hacksaw slits in 
the outer tube" "Put hose clamp on".  No precision drilling or cutting 
required: the slits don't have to be exactly lined up or even straight. 
  The tubing doesn't have to be round.

Then there's a whole raft of "drill hole and insert fastener" schemes, 
whether they are screws, bolts, cotter pins, rivets of various kinds, etc.

In this latter bucket, there are "pin through the whole thing with 4 
holes (2 inner, 2 outer)" type attachments (fast, probably rattles) and 
"fastener through 2 holes, attaching inner to outer at one point" (pop 
rivets, for instance).

Heck, if you only need to assemble it once, drill a hole through inner 
and outer tube on one side and use a sheet metal screw.  But you won't 
do that twice, you won't have interchangeable parts.  Or even just epoxy 
the two pieces together.

For a lot of the "holes though the elements" schemes you wind up needing 
a jig or fixture (v-blocks and drill press, for instance).