[TowerTalk] Shorty Forty Hose Clamp thread

[Stan Stockton]

See below.

Stan

Sent from Stan's IPhone



> On Aug 13, 2015, at 10:21 AM, Michael Tope <W4EF at ca.rr.com> wrote:
> 
> Stan,
> 
> A couple of questions:
> 
> 1) Does the counterbore go all the way through the one wall of the outer diameter piece?

Yes
> 
> 2) Is the clearance between the counterbore diameter and the cap screw head diameter critical?

Not very critical but you don't want a huge hole for the head of a #8 socket head cap screw.  Just enough so it passes by the OD on the side where you insert it.  The drill bits do a perfect job.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mike W4EF................
> 
>> On 8/13/2015 6:53 AM, Stan Stockton wrote:
>> After about 40 years of making my own antennas I learned something a few years ago when faced with assembling 65 tribanders (520 elements) we made for WRTC2014.
>> 
>> I was introduced to the element joint attachment method I am told is used by Optibeam.  I was skeptical when I heard the verbal description, having settled on pop rivets after every other conceivable method about 20 years ago.
>> 
>> I made one element with pop rivets and another with a single stainless steel socket head cap screw with a counterbore (head clearance on socket head screw) for one wall of the larger diameter tubing for each joint, then grabbed each one in the center and violently shook them back and forth.  The one with SHCS joints felt like one solid piece of tubing as compared to the pop riveted one.
>> 
>> It is so easy and so solid, I will never mess with pop rivets again.
>> 
>> A V block fixture with stops, drill press and some of these bits along with straight bits for the smaller diameter tube drilling are all that is needed.
>> 
>>  http://www.wttool.com/index/page/category/category_id/14686/
>> 
>> make the job easy in comparison to many methods.  The counterbore is important.  Use stainless nylock nuts.
>> 
>> YMMV but I'm sold on it.
>> 
>> 73...Stan, K5GO
>> 
>> Sent from Stan's IPhone
> 
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