[TowerTalk] Concrete anchor

Andre VanWyk kr5dx at yahoo.com
Fri Aug 14 14:53:22 EDT 2015


Jim,

Thanks for clarifying.

I called a local fab shop this morning and they will send someone out to me 
to look at at the base and come up with a plan.

Since time is an issue, I will go with the cold galv.

Thanks to all who responded!

73's
NJ0F


-----Original Message----- 
From: Jim Thomson
Sent: Friday, August 14, 2015 1:06 PM
To: towertalk at contesting.com
Subject: [TowerTalk] Concrete anchor

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2015 12:05:52 -0400
From: K7LXC at aol.com
To: towertalk at contesting.com, kr5dx at yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Concrete anchor

>  I have a 165ft rotating tower going up next Spring so will  not be
putting a larger tower on this base, but it does sound like I need to get  a 
fab
shop to just go ahead and build me the base. No galvanizers locally so
paint will have to do.

> I have a concrete base next to my shop  that once had 89ft US Crankup
Tower
> on it. The tower is gone, and I  acquired a 55ft US Tower that I want to
bolt
> to this base for use in my  shop. The bolts that once held the bigger
tower
> is still there, but I  plan to cut them off and install chemical anchors
to
> support the smaller  bolt pattern. The other option was to fabricate an
> adapter plate that  would mate the 55ft tower T-base to the bigger bolt
> pattern, but this  sounds like much more work than simply drilling into
the
> concrete and  installing new anchors.
>
> I never used chemical anchors for this  purpose and would appreciate any
> suggestions on size, and where I can  source them. The rebar pattern for
the
> bigger tower is much wider than  the bolt pattern for the smaller tower,
so I
> there is little chance for  me to hit rebar when I drill. (I suspect I
will
> need a BIG  drill).

    I assume that the big tower is a Rohn of some ilk.  Adapting the base
for the new tower is pretty simple - and you don't need  anything 
fabricated.

    There are a couple of tower base options: 1) flat  plate for regular
bottom section and 2) pier pin. For 1) you can put the  plate on the base 
and
use a rotary hammer with concrete coring bit to drill  out the bolt holes.
I'm not sure what you mean by a chemical anchor but in this  case you'd use
some industrial epoxy to anchor the bolts to the concrete. The  same with 
the
pier pin.

    Either option works although different folks prefer  one over the
other.

Cheers & GL,
Steve     K7LXC
TOWER TECH

##  steve, he is putting up TWO towers.  His newly aquired UST-55 crank up 
he wants to retrofit
to an existing base that originally had a HDX-589 on it.       His 2nd tower 
down the road is the
165 ft rotating.

##  Hilti does make anchors for doing this, but they are 2 ft long and 2 
inch OD....with a 1 inch bolts /
threaded rod  that screws into the hilti.   Trylon also uses an option for 
folks who want to put a tower
on solid rock, using rock anchors.  A hole or usually two are drilled deep, 
2-4 ft deep, and typ 2-3 inchs
OD,.  The anchor rod is placed into the hole dead center..and the expanding 
epoxy goop is pumped in.

Trylon used special huge L shaped feet for this rock anchor setup.... but as 
far as I know, it was made for
only 2 x anchor rods  per tower leg.    U need a special  drill for this 
application and the entire process
is usually trbl free.   having a custom made adaptor plate  makes better 
sense.     If u can’t get it hot dipped
galvanized, then use cold galvanizing  paint...like several coats of it. 
The rustoleum brand sold in home depot
in large, tall rattle cans works very well....... a lot better than all the 
other brands  I have bought at the local
machine shops around town.  The rustoleum stuff in home depot is not only 
cheaper, the cans are taller.
It lasts forever.  drys super fast, so additional coats can be applied. 
The various brands from the machine shops
worked... but not for long, rust would creep through after a few months.

I have also used the rustoleum  stuff on welds that I had done beneath my 
car, subframe connectors welded
on my mustang etc.   They still look the same after day 1...and that was 3 
yrs ago.   I also used it on several
other projects, all outside.

Jim  VE7RF


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