[TowerTalk] [Bulk] Re: Cutting a FT-240 type 33...in half ??

Grant Saviers grants2 at pacbell.net
Tue Feb 10 12:08:43 EST 2015


Boxless is one way to go if the coax fits the cores, but as previously 
posted I use RG142 TFE coax for the choke windings.

My latest design (in process) to avoid connectors going from the rotator 
loop to the choke is to use watertight cable entry grips for that cable 
directly into the plastic choke box.  These are available in sizes to 
fit most any coax and have an o-ring to seal the box hole.   All 
connections in the box are soldered and glyptol'd. Likewise if #10 wire 
is used for the driven element connection, there are grips that go small 
enough to clamp on it.  In the end, I've never had a totally watertight 
box so do drill a 1/8" hole for drainage at the low point in the box as 
mounted.   Note that stranded wire is not watertight, the water will 
wick down the strands.  Adhesive filled ring lugs help prevent that.

Grant KZ1W
it doesn't rain much here in Redmond, WA,  just all the time.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/121/876/=vum4yl

On 2/10/2015 3:35 AM, Ian White wrote:
> But why use a box with bulkhead connectors anyway? That seems to be the root cause of all the problems.
>
> I never use bulkhead sockets on anything outdoors, because they require stripping the coax which creates opportunities for water leakage, bad solder joints and corrosion - all of which can be avoided by using inline connectors. If you don't need someplace to fix bulkhead connectors, then you don't actually need a box either.
>
> Would there be any problem about using inline connectors and no box at all? That would cure your space limitations :-)
>
>



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