[TowerTalk] My first tower section is not plumb...

[Steve Maki]

I've used that method myself on towers that had suffered vehicular 
damage near the base, works well.

In fact another option for Doug, if he's going to be forming up a new 
block of concrete above grade, would be to take this opportunity to 
convert to some version of a pier pin install.

-Steve K8LX

On 2/12/2016 12:11 AM, Stan Stockton wrote:

> Doug,
>
> If that tower is actually so out of plumb that you have to fix it,
> this is what I would do:
>
> 1.  Bend the legs just enough, within an inch of the bottom, that you
> can push the tower with significant force by one person BY HAND from
> ground level so it is straight.  Paint the bottom 16 inches of the
> tower and also coat it with some roofing tar, at least where you
> hammered.
>
> 2.  Drill four, six inch deep holes in the existing concrete in a
> square outside the area taken up by the tower.  Install and epoxy, if
> you have the proper epoxy, rebar in those holes extending up about 15
> inches.
>
> 3. Make a form around your existing base about 12 inches larger both
> length and width than your existing pad X 16 inches tall.  If the
> existing pad is 24" X 24", make the form 36" X 36".  Install rebar in
> the new form above the existing concrete pad and down into the new
> pour area.
>
> 4.  Pour the new concrete using three plumb bobs (one on each leg)
> and with tower perfectly plumb (check it with a good level on all
> three legs in the direction where the guy wires will go to the
> anchors) and let it cure for however long you want - 14 days should
> be good.
>
> In my opinion there is a lot more potential for creating worse
> problems than what you currently have in trying to move a 2000 pound
> block of concrete buried 3 feet in the hard ground with 20 feet of
> R25G sticking out of it.  You certainly don't want to put extreme
> force on one leg of the tower at 15 or 20 feet with a guy wire in an
> effort to move the concrete.
>
> Remember that the only purpose of a tower base on a guyed tower is to
> keep it from sinking in the ground.  Originally you were going to
> have it sit on top of a plate on your roof.  Oh, yes, this is
> overboard, but probably less work than trying to move the concrete.
>
> Use good, temporary guy wires with proper tension and put up the last
> section or two and antenna in a safe manner.
>
> 73... Stan, K5GO
>
>> On Feb 11, 2016, at 5:51 PM, Douglas Ruz (CO8DM)
>> <co8dm at frcuba.co.cu> wrote:
>>
>> Hi,
>>
>> I have been thinking and I am really want my tower straight and
>> plumb.
>>
>> I am considering digging out some side of the base to adjust the
>> tower level.
>>
>> Any tips or thoughts ???
>>
>> Can I just digging 2 sides or all 4 sides of tower bease???
>>
>> About backfilling...what is the best add concrete again for
>> backfilling???
>>
>> what is the best method to move the base to adjust the level
>> ??...it is about 2000 pounds base.
>>
>> Thanks in advance,
>>
>> 73....Douglas, CO8DM
>>
>> "No creo que haya alguna emoción más intensa para un inventor que
>> ver alguna de sus creaciones funcionando. Esa emoción hace que uno
>> se olvide de comer, de dormir, de todo." - Nikola Tesla -----
>> Original Message ----- From: "Steve Maki" <lists at oakcom.org> To:
>> <towertalk at contesting.com> Sent: Wednesday, February 10, 2016 8:26
>> PM Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] My first tower section is not plumb...
>>
>>
>>> If your tower is the equivalent of R25, and only 30', there's not
>>> much you can do to it to really overstress it, unless you try
>>> real hard.
>>>
>>> But if you really want it straight AND plumb, consider digging
>>> out the appropriate side of the foundation and letting the the
>>> concrete adjust itself, and then backfilling it back in.
>>>
>>> At that point it will become what you want it to be, merely an
>>> anti-sink device.
>>>
>>> -Steve K8LX
>>>
>>>> On 2/10/2016 8:08 PM, Douglas Ruz (CO8DM) wrote: Thanks for all
>>>> replys.
>>>>
>>>> OK, first, I will build a Gin Pole...I think it is not a
>>>> problem.
>>>>
>>>> Second, seems that my verticality errors are "into" the
>>>> tolerance range, so, I think I can do some corrections before
>>>> tighten the bolts...I put some pressure in one of the temporary
>>>> guys and make the 2nd section plumb. In general the tower (only
>>>> 2 sections now) is very stiff with "My temporary guy ropes"...I
>>>> climb to the top of the 20ft to attach the line with weight
>>>> (plumb bob) in the center of the tower and I dont feel any
>>>> movement.
>>>>
>>>> My questions is:
>>>>
>>>> Can I try to make the tower plumb without adding to much stress
>>>> to tower legs???