[TowerTalk] F12 C19XR Rivets

[N2TK, Tony]

A number of years ago the C3E elements kept loosening. We always had an updraft at the edge of a cliff. Force 12 told us to add additional rivets. At each joint we had 3 rows of 3 rivets (total of 9) spaced 120 degrees. The elements no longer loosened.

And I agree with Jim, a pneumatic rivet gun is the only way to fly. Pretty cheap at Harbor Freight.

73,
N2TK, Tony

-----Original Message-----
From: TowerTalk [mailto:towertalk-bounces at contesting.com] On Behalf Of Jim Thomson
Sent: Monday, March 07, 2016 10:55 PM
To: towertalk at contesting.com
Subject: [TowerTalk] F12 C19XR Rivets

Date: Sun, 6 Mar 2016 19:39:29 -0500
From: Larry <lknain at nc.rr.com>
To: towertalk at contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] F12 C19XR Rivets
Message-ID: <56DCCDC1.2020308 at nc.rr.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed

In the early days C3, EF 180B, and 240 generally used 0.125 inch rivets on the elements. The 180B had some 0.25 inch rivets as well if I recall. 
Booms used 0.25 inch rivets. The C3, for example, generally had 3 rivets per joint in the elements. I don't know how different the XR series is.

73, Larry  W6NWS

##  on my F-12 340N,  520, 615, EF-180B, and F12 shorty 44 foot 40m yagi, all the rivets are .125, aluminum, and slightly domed heads,  with steel mandrels.  The shorty 40m els used longer .125” rivets on the inboard portions only, where they are triple walled. 

##  The EF-180B  used  .1875  rivets on the else....  but only in one place.... like that huge swedge.
All the booms  used  .1875  rivets on the factory end  of each splice...where as the end user portion of each boom splice used 1/4-20 SS  bolts  + nylocks. 

##  No  .25  rivets were used any where.   Although those small hand riveters will pull a .1875
rivet, they are very tough to pull.    I bought a larger, looks like hedge shears,  type of riveter,
made  by pop company, aprx 25 inches  long,  to do the .1875 rivets.  The same longer riveter  will also do 
.25  rivets, and also .125 rivets.   But the big riveter is too awkward for the .125 rivets, the small hand 
riveter is better for that job.

##  POP  co also makes a hand riveter, that uses  90 psi from ur compressor, to pull any size of rivet, it also has an optional device to collect all the spent mandrels. 

##  DON’T  put any anti oxidant  grease on any rivets.... only the els overlaps.   Install ALL the rivets at any
joint before you pull any rivets.    IE:  install 3 x rivets in a row, then pull them one at a time.   And if rivets  2+ 3 
start to back off, after pulling the 1st one, you have to tap the rivets back in, so they are flush, b4 pulling them.
Tap them back in via the domed heads..and NOT the mandrels. 

Jim   VE7RF 
    
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