[TowerTalk] TowerTalk Digest, Vol 159, Issue 47
dalej
dj2001x at comcast.net
Sat Mar 12 19:18:51 EST 2016
Blah, blah, 1200 feet of open wire feeders, etc.
Some of these so called "hams" have room for "1200 feet of open wire feeders" etc….
This radio "hobby" has sure changed. I guess it's about money and acreage, the boys with the bigger toys and money wins, something.
Dale
On 12, Mar 2016, at 17:57, towertalk-request at contesting.com wrote:
Send TowerTalk mailing list submissions to
towertalk at contesting.com
To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
towertalk-request at contesting.com
You can reach the person managing the list at
towertalk-owner at contesting.com
When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of TowerTalk digest..."
Today's Topics:
1. Re: F12 C19XR Rivets (Patrick Greenlee)
2. Re: PEX tubing for antenna spacers? (Roger (K8RI) on TT)
3. Re: [Bulk] PEX tubing for antenna spacers? (Grant Saviers)
4. Fwd: RG6 coax question (Hans Hammarquist)
5. Re: F12 C19XR Rivets (Kevin Stover)
6. Open-wire spacers (Steve Walter)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2016 12:09:39 -0600
From: Patrick Greenlee <patrick_g at windstream.net>
To: towertalk at contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] F12 C19XR Rivets
Message-ID: <56E45B63.2050107 at windstream.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
The new F150 pickups use aluminum extensively.
On 3/12/2016 11:56 AM, Jim Thomson wrote:
> When US steel found out about the proposed aluminum
> car body manufacturing method, they went beserko, and the politicians
> quickly finished off the idea....never to be mentioned again. Rust
> doesnt sleep..and aluminum doesn?t rust.
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2016 13:23:00 -0500
From: "Roger (K8RI) on TT" <K8RI-on-TowerTalk at tm.net>
To: towertalk at contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] PEX tubing for antenna spacers?
Message-ID: <56E45E84.4040804 at tm.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
I'd avoid the "water pipe" due to lack of UV resistance.
"I think" you will find the plastic water pipe will turn brittle with
long term exposure to UV. NOTE, I have not used plastic water pipe in
this situation and base the "I think" on experience with similar
plastics exposed to UV.
I use 4' of 1/2" PVC conduit for spacers at the ends of a fan dipole for
75/80. At present it's just two wires, but I plan on going to 3 or 4.
They aren't heavy enough to cause any problems ( so far) The antenna is
under considerable tension. It is held in place by a 5/16th double
braid poly rope through a pulley near the top of the 100' 45G. The
armstrong method of tensioninng is being replaced with simple winches.
Unlike Jim, my end spreaders are under considerable tension (linear
compression) and are still holding after 3 to 5 years with no noticeable
deterioration from UV.
http://www.rogerhalstead.com/ham_files/AntennaSpreader1.htm
73 es good luck,
Roger (K8RI)
On 3/12/2016 Saturday 11:43 AM, Jim Brown wrote:
> On Sat,3/12/2016 8:28 AM, Larry Banks wrote:
>> (The white stuff that I have microwave tested is not UV resistant, so
>> there is a question about how long it will last outside.)
>>
>> As it is very light weight and seems to be fairly rigid, it looks
>> like a good candidate for this purpose. Any experience with this
>> stuff out there?
>
> Most PVC conduit is labeled as "UV resistant," and the spacers I've
> made using 1/2-in PVC conduit has held up fairly well. I wouldn't put
> stress on it, but it works for a pretty long time as spacers. PVC
> conduit is so cheap and easy to cut and drill, why would you want to
> use something that probably has no UV resistance?
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> TowerTalk mailing list
> TowerTalk at contesting.com
> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
--
73
Roger (K8RI)
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2016 11:50:47 -0800
From: Grant Saviers <grants2 at pacbell.net>
To: Larry Banks <larryb.w1dyj at verizon.net>, Tower Talk
<towertalk at contesting.com>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] [Bulk] PEX tubing for antenna spacers?
Message-ID: <56E47317.4040804 at pacbell.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
I use square grey PVC rod from McMaster, UV proof, easy to drill, your
choice 3/8, 1/2" or larger. My fan dipole has 30" separation at the
ends so I used 3/8".
http://www.mcmaster.com/#plastic-squares/=11idlcr
another choice is sch80 pvc pipe in 1/4 or 3/8" ips sizes. McMaster
again, probably cheaper locally.
Common PEX, I think regardless of color, is not UV proof as others have
mentioned.
Grant KZ1W
On 3/12/2016 8:28 AM, Larry Banks wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> Has anyone used 1/2? PEX tubing (normally used for plumbing) as a spacer for open-wire line or fan-dipoles? (PEX is cross-linked polyethylene.)
>
> It is cheap in 5? lengths, easy to work, and passes the microwave oven test, so it isn?t conductive. (The white stuff that I have microwave tested is not UV resistant, so there is a question about how long it will last outside.)
>
> As it is very light weight and seems to be fairly rigid, it looks like a good candidate for this purpose. Any experience with this stuff out there?
>
> 73 -- Larry -- W1DYJ
>
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> TowerTalk mailing list
> TowerTalk at contesting.com
> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2016 15:11:26 -0500
From: Hans Hammarquist <hanslg at aol.com>
To: towertalk at contesting.com
Subject: [TowerTalk] Fwd: RG6 coax question
Message-ID: <1536c747d1f-24f6-4c79 at webprd-a103.mail.aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
You could get water in the cable if there is/are a crack/s or pinholes in the jacked, and that doesn't have to be big. A corroded screen will cause attenuation (and associated noise) and that will not show up with any simple isolation test. Test the cable with an SWR meter. You check what SWR you get with the other end open or shorted. Low SWR = cable attenuation. (That's how I test my cable installations) The MFJ 269 has a built-in calculator for that.
Hans - N2JFS
-----Original Message-----
From: Ed Stallman <ed.n5dg at gmail.com>
To: towertalk <towertalk at contesting.com>
Sent: Sat, Mar 12, 2016 8:52 am
Subject: [TowerTalk] RG6 coax question
Howdy Tower Talkers , My question is if water can get into the RG6 coax
through the outer cover ? The RG6 I'm using is Commscope but it's not
the flooded ! I lay the coax on the ground to a HI-Z Receive 4 SQ , so I
can remove it in the spring and reinstall in the Fall . The RG6-F-
connectors are 8 to 12 inches off the ground and taped good , so if
water is getting in, it would have to come in through the insulation ...
if that's possible ? I'm asking these questions because the HI-Z RX 4SQ
uses a Bias T throu the 4 phasing lines and if water or moister gets in
it will create noise and I have noise in 3 of the 4 directions ! 8.5
inches of rain in 2 days is allot of water !
Thanks Ed N5DG
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
_______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
TowerTalk mailing list
TowerTalk at contesting.com
http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2016 15:46:56 -0600
From: Kevin Stover <kevin.stover at mediacombb.net>
To: towertalk at contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] F12 C19XR Rivets
Message-ID: <56E48E50.7070104 at mediacombb.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
I believe the cabs and beds are all 5000 or 6000 series Al. 5000 in low
stress areas like the cowl, cab floor and inner door panels, 6000 series
is used in high stress areas like the cab, sills, and A-Pillars.
The Aluminum is glued, riveted and screwed in place. Very few spot
welds. Spot welding aluminum requires higher electric currents and some
means of removing the oxidized coating that covers the surface. Thus the
reason aircraft are riveted.
The proof of concept was 40 Mercury Sables from 1995 and the 2003 Jag XJ.
If I remember correctly they saved about 250-300lbs of weight on the F-150.
On 3/12/2016 12:09 PM, Patrick Greenlee wrote:
> The new F150 pickups use aluminum extensively.
>
> On 3/12/2016 11:56 AM, Jim Thomson wrote:
>> When US steel found out about the proposed aluminum
>> car body manufacturing method, they went beserko, and the politicians
>> quickly finished off the idea....never to be mentioned again. Rust
>> doesnt sleep..and aluminum doesn?t rust.
>
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> TowerTalk mailing list
> TowerTalk at contesting.com
> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
--
R. Kevin Stover
AC0H
ARRL
FISTS #11993
SKCC #215
NAQCC #3441
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2016 18:57:01 -0500
From: Steve Walter <stevewalter90 at gmail.com>
To: towertalk at contesting.com
Subject: [TowerTalk] Open-wire spacers
Message-ID:
<CA+SDT63wn48SaOd-Tj34J_P+iW6DMYjz-cxQY9c7dsEPsjE3NQ at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
I have had over 1200' of home brew open-wire feedline outside for about
five years. I use the polyethylene black water pipe sold at my local
Tractor Supply store. It comes in large rolls and I believe is 1/2" inside
dia. It has shown no sign of degradation. I run it through a jig on my
radial arm saw to cut it to length (2" for me) then I drill holes in each
end that are sized to hold my wire snugly. Finally I saw slits in each end
to slide the wire to the hole. The worst part is snapping the wire into
the slot...tough on the fingers if you do 1200' of it! I use insulated
stranded 14 gauge wire which grips nicely with the spacer. They CAN be
slid around if needed but dont move on their own. Bare wire might not grip
so well.
73, Steve WA3A
------------------------------
Subject: Digest Footer
_______________________________________________
TowerTalk mailing list
TowerTalk at contesting.com
http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
------------------------------
End of TowerTalk Digest, Vol 159, Issue 47
******************************************
More information about the TowerTalk
mailing list