[TowerTalk] PL259 Cobbectors Part 2 - Murray W9EHQ

[Roger (K8RI) on TT]

Good ideas Jim. I've used drip loops for so long, I forgot that there 
are a lot of new hams that might not be familiar with them. Drip loops 
are one of the simplest and effective steps to weatherproofing. Thanks 
for reminding me.

73

Roger (K8RI)

On 5/14/2016 Saturday 10:38 AM, Jim Thomson wrote:
> Date: Sat, 14 May 2016 03:15:20 -0400
> From: "Roger (K8RI) on TT" <K8RI-on-TowerTalk at tm.net>
> To: towertalk at contesting.com
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] PL259 Cobbectors Part 2 - Murray W9EHQ
>
> I much prefer the sealer to be stuck to the connector.  As for the glue
> from the heat shrink tubing.  Make a linear cut in the tube and then let
> the connector get cold.  The hot melt glue will then, generally break
> off the connector leaving it look like new. If the connector is warm,
> much of the glue will stick.  I don't know if that works with the self
> vulcanizing tape, or coax seal.
>
> 73
>
> Roger  (K8RI)
>
> ##  Put some DC-4  /5   onto the threads 1st...+ a tiny bit onto the center pin.
> Then crank it up good and tight.  Put a  rag onto the connector 1st,  b4 putting
> any water pump pliers  etc on, then the wrap of rag  protects the connector.
> Ok,  once tight, toss the rag and pliers...and then wrap  the connector and a portion of the
> coax outer jacket, with 88  tape, sticky side  towards the connector.   Then slide your
> heat shrink over top of that, use the heat shrink with the hot melt glue on the inside ribs,
> like is  typ of  T+B  brand heat shrink. Then wrap more  88 tape on top of the heat
> shrink, so it covers both the heat shrink and a portion of the coax outer black sheath.
> The connection wont get water into it.
>
> ##  If at all possible, use a drip loop to stop water  pooling into connectors.  Water wont run
> uphill.
>
> Jim  VE7RF
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-- 

73

Roger (K8RI)


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